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Fruit of the Loom, Inc.

Company headquarters building in Bowling Green, Kentucky
Type	Subsidiary
Industry	Textile, sports equipment
Founded	1851; 172 years ago in Warwick, Rhode Island, U.S. (as "B.B and R Knight Corp.)[1]
Founders	Robert Knight & Benjamin Knight[2]
Headquarters	Bowling Green, Kentucky , United States
Area served	Worldwide
Products	Clothing (casual wear, activewear), sports equipment
Brands	Exquisite Form
Owner	Berkshire Hathaway
Number of employees	32,400
Subsidiaries	Russell Athletic Spalding Vanity Fair (intimates)
Website	fruit.com

Fruit of the Loom is an American company that manufactures clothing, particularly casual wear and underwear. The company's world headquarters is in Bowling Green, Kentucky. Since 2002, it has been a wholly owned subsidiary of Berkshire Hathaway.

Products manufactured by Fruit of the Loom itself and through its subsidiaries include clothing (t-shirts, hoodies, jackets, sweatpants, shorts and lingerie), and sports equipment (softballs and basketballs) manufactured and commercialized by Spalding. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fruit_of_the_Loom

This article is about the clothing company. For other uses, see Haines (disambiguation) and Haynes (disambiguation).

Hanes

Type	Brand
Genre	Clothing
Founded	July 26, 1900; 123 years ago (as Shamrock Knitting Mills)
Founder	John Wesley Hanes
Headquarters	Winston-Salem, North Carolina , U.S.
Products	Underwear, casualwear, hosiery and socks
Owner	Hanes, Inc.
Parent	Hanesbrands
Website	www.hanes.com

Hanes (founded in 1900) and Hanes Her Way (founded in 1985) is a brand of clothing. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanes

La Perla

Type	Private company
Industry	Fashion
Founded	1954
Founder	Ada Masotti
Headquarters	London , United Kingdom
Number of locations	150
Area served	Worldwide
Key people	Silvio Scaglia (Chairman) Nicole Rendone (Creative Director)
Products	Lingerie, beachwear, sleepwear, ready-to-wear, accessories
Owner	Tennor Holding BV
Website	www.laperla.com

La Perla is a London-headquartered ^[1] Italian lingerie and swimwear maker owned by German entrepreneur Lars Windhorst through Tennor Holding B.V.^[2] The brand was founded by couturière Ada Masotti in Bologna in 1954.^[3] 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Perla_(clothing)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Perla_(painting)

Agent Provocateur

Agent Provocateur's first store, on Broadwick Street, Soho, London
Type	Private
Industry	Apparel
Founded	1994; 29 years ago
Founders	Joseph Corré Serena Rees
Headquarters	London , England, United Kingdom
Key people	Sarah Shotton (Creative director)
Products	lingerie, sleepwear, hosiery, swimwear, accessories, outerwear, fragrances
Number of employees	600[1] (2017)
Website	https://www.agentprovocateur.com

Agent Provocateur is a British lingerie retailer founded in 1994 by Joseph Corré and Serena Rees.^[2] The company has stores in 13 countries.^[3] 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agent_Provocateur_(lingerie)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

For other uses, see Underwear (disambiguation).

"Intimate apparel" redirects here. For the play, see Intimate Apparel (play).

Boxer shorts and boxer briefs

Panties or knickers

Underwear, underclothing, or undergarments are items of clothing worn beneath outer clothes, usually in direct contact with the skin, although they may comprise more than a single layer. They serve to keep outer clothing from being soiled or damaged by bodily excretions, to lessen the friction of outerwear against the skin, to shape the body, and to provide concealment or support for parts of it. In cold weather, long underwear is sometimes worn to provide additional warmth. Special types of undergarments have religious significance. Some items of clothing are designed as undergarments, while others, such as T-shirts and certain types of shorts, are appropriate both as underwear and outerwear. If made of suitable material or textile, some underwear can serve as nightwear or swimwear, and some undergarments are intended for sexual attraction or visual appeal.

Undergarments are generally of two types, those that are worn to cover the torso and those that are worn to cover the waist and legs, although there are also underclothes which cover both. Different styles of underwear are generally worn by females and males. Undergarments commonly worn by females today include bras and panties (knickers in British English), while males often wear classic briefs, boxer briefs, or boxer shorts. Items worn by both sexes include T-shirts, sleeveless shirts (also called singlets, tank tops, A-shirts, or vests), bikini underpants, thongs, G-strings and T-fronts.

Terminology

Undergarments are known by a number of terms. Underclothes, underclothing and underwear are formal terms, while undergarments may be more casually called, in Australia, Reg Grundys (rhyming slang for undies) and Reginalds, and, in the United Kingdom, smalls (from the earlier smallclothes) and (historically) unmentionables. In the United States, women's underwear may be known as delicates due to the recommended washing machine cycle or because they are, simply put, delicate.^{[citation needed]}

Women's undergarments collectively are also called lingerie. They also are called intimate clothing and intimates.

An undershirt (vest in the United Kingdom) is a piece of underwear covering the torso, while underpants (often called pants in the United Kingdom), drawers, and undershorts cover the genitals and buttocks. Terms for specific undergarments are shown in the table below.

Function

Underwear is worn for a variety of reasons. They keep outer garments from being soiled by perspiration, urine,^[1] semen, pre-seminal fluid, feces, vaginal discharge, and menstrual blood.^[2] Women's brassieres provide support for the breasts, and men's briefs serve the same function for the male genitalia. A corset may be worn as a foundation garment to provide support for the breasts and torso, as well as to alter a woman's body shape. For additional support and protection when playing sports, men often wear more tightly fitting underwear, including jockstraps and jockstraps with cup pocket and protective cup. Women may wear sports bras which provide greater support, thus increasing comfort and reducing the chance of damage to the ligaments of the chest during high-impact exercises such as jogging.^{[citation needed]}

In cold climates, underwear may constitute an additional layer of clothing helping to keep the wearer warm. Underwear may also be used to preserve the wearer's modesty – for instance, some women wear camisoles and slips (petticoats) under clothes that are sheer. Conversely, some types of underwear can be worn for sexual titillation, such as edible underwear or crotchless panties.^{[citation needed]}

Undergarments are worn for insulation under space suits and dry suits. In the case of dry suits, the insulation value of the undergarments is selected to match the expected water temperature and the level of activity for the planned dive or water activity.^[3]

Some items of clothing are designed exclusively as underwear, while others such as T-shirts and certain types of shorts are suitable both as underwear and as outer clothing. The suitability of underwear as outer clothing is, apart from the indoor or outdoor climate, largely dependent on societal norms, fashion, and the requirements of the law. If made of suitable material, some underwear can serve as nightwear or swimsuits.^{[citation needed]}

Religious functions

Undergarments can also have religious significance:

• Judaism. To conform with societal dress codes, the tallit katan is often worn beneath the shirt.^{[citation needed]}
• Mormonism. Following their endowment in a temple, Mormons wear special temple garments which help them to remember the teachings of the temple.^[4]
• Sikhism. One of the five articles of faith (panj kakaar) worn by Sikh men and women is a certain style of underpants similar to boxer shorts and known as the kacchera.^{[citation needed]}
• Zoroastrianism. Zoroastrians wear an undershirt called a Sedreh that is fastened with a sacred girdle around the waist known as a Kushti.^{[citation needed]}

History

Ancient history

A mosaic from the Piazza Armerina in Sicily showing a woman wearing a strophium (breastcloth) and a subligaculum

Medieval braies

A loincloth in 1412 Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry

The loincloth is the simplest form of underwear; it was probably the first undergarment worn by human beings. In warmer climates, the loincloth was often the only clothing worn (effectively making it an outer garment rather than an undergarment), as was doubtless its origin, but in colder regions, the loincloth often formed the basis of a person's clothing and was covered by other garments. In most ancient civilizations, this was the only undergarment available.

A loincloth may take three major forms. The first, and simplest, is simply a long strip of material that is passed between the legs and then around the waist. Archaeologists have found the remains of such loincloths made of leather dating back 7,000 years.^[5] The ancient Hawaiian malo was of this form, as are several styles of the Japanese fundoshi. Another form is usually called a cache-sexe: a triangle of cloth is provided with strings or loops, which are used to fasten the triangle between the legs and over the genitals. Egyptian king Tutankhamun (1341 BC – 1323 BC) was found buried with numerous linen loincloths of this style.^[5] An alternate form is more skirt-like: a cloth is wrapped around the hips several times and then fastened with a girdle.

Men are said to have worn loincloths in ancient Greece and Rome, though it is unclear whether Greek women wore undergarments. There is some speculation that only slaves wore loincloths and that citizens did not wear undergarments beneath their chitons. Mosaics of the Roman period indicate that women (primarily in an athletic context, whilst wearing nothing else) sometimes wore strophiae (breastcloths) or brassieres made of soft leather, along with subligacula which were either in the form of shorts or loincloths. Subligacula were also worn by men.^[5]

The fabric used for loincloths may have been wool, linen or a linsey-woolsey blend. Only the upper classes could have afforded imported silk.

The loincloth continues to be worn by people around the world – it is the traditional form of undergarment in many Asian societies, for example. In various, mainly tropical, cultures, the traditional male dress may still consist of only a single garment below the waist or even none at all, with underwear as optional, including the Indian dhoti and lungi, or the Scottish kilt.

Middle Ages and Renaissance

In the Middle Ages, western men's underwear became looser fitting. The loincloth was replaced by loose, trouser-like clothing called braies, which the wearer stepped into and then laced or tied around the waist and legs at about mid-calf. Wealthier men often wore chausses as well, which only covered the legs.^[5] Braies (or rather braccae) were a type of trouser worn by Celtic and Germanic tribes in antiquity and by Europeans subsequently into the Middle Ages. In the later Middle Ages they were used exclusively as undergarments.^{[citation needed]}

A 1532–1533 portrait by Titian of the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V, in a codpiece

By the time of the Renaissance, braies had become shorter to accommodate longer styles of chausses. Chausses were also giving way to form-fitting hose,^[5] which covered the legs and feet. Fifteenth-century hose were often particolored, with each leg in a different-colored fabric or even more than one color on a leg. However, many types of braies, chausses and hose were not intended to be covered up by other clothing, so they were not actually underwear in the strict sense.

Braies were usually fitted with a front flap that was buttoned or tied closed. This codpiece allowed men to urinate without having to remove the braies completely.^[5] Codpieces were also worn with hose when very short doublets – vest- (UK: waistcoat-) like garments tied together in the front and worn under other clothing – were in fashion, as early forms of hose were open at the crotch. Henry VIII of England began padding his codpiece, which caused a spiralling trend of larger and larger codpieces that only ended by the end of the 16th century. It has been speculated that the King may have had the sexually transmitted disease syphilis, and his large codpiece may have included a bandage soaked in medication to relieve its symptoms.^[5] Henry VIII also wanted a healthy son and may have thought that projecting himself in this way would portray fertility. Codpieces were sometimes used as a pocket for holding small items.^[5]

A lady in her private boudoir; wearing an informal embroidered jacket over her rose-pink corset or simple bodice and decorated petticoat, c. 1600

Over the upper part of their bodies, both medieval men and women usually wore a close-fitting shirt-like garment called a chemise in France, or a smock or shift in England. The forerunner of the modern-day shirt, the chemise was tucked into a man's braies, under his outer clothing. Women wore a chemise underneath their gowns or robes, sometimes with petticoats over the chemise. Elaborately quilted petticoats might be displayed by a cut-away dress, in which case they served a skirt rather than an undergarment. During the 16th century, the farthingale was popular. This was a petticoat stiffened with reed or willow rods so that it stood out from a woman's body like a cone extending from the waist.

Corsets also began to be worn about this time. At first they were called pairs of bodies, which refers to a stiffened decorative bodice worn on top of another bodice stiffened with buckram, reeds, canes, whalebone or other materials. These were not the small-waisted, curved corsets familiar from the Victorian era, but straight-lined stays that flattened the bust.

Men's braies and hose were eventually replaced by simple cotton, silk, or linen drawers, which were usually knee-length trousers with a button flap in the front.^[5]

Medieval people wearing only tunics, without underpants, can be seen on works like The Ass in the School by Pieter Bruegel the Elder, in the Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry by Limbourg Brothers, or in the Grimani Breviary: The Month of February by Gerard Horenbout.

In 2012, findings in Lengberg Castle, in Austria, showed that lace and linen brassiere-like garments, one of which greatly resembled the modern bra, date back to hundreds of years before it was thought to exist.^[6][7]

Enlightenment and Industrial Age

Tight Lacing, or Fashion Before Ease, an early-1770s satirical drawing by John Collet

The invention of the spinning jenny machines and the cotton gin in the second half of the 18th century made cotton fabrics widely available. This allowed factories to mass-produce underwear, and for the first time, large numbers of people began buying undergarments in stores rather than making them at home.

Women's stays of the 18th century were laced behind and drew the shoulders back to form a high, round bosom and erect posture. Colored stays were popular. With the relaxed country styles of the end of the century, stays became shorter and were unboned or only lightly boned, and were now called corsets. As tight waists became fashionable in the 1820s, the corset was again boned and laced to form the figure. By the 1860s, a tiny ("wasp") waist came to be seen as a symbol of beauty, and the corsets were stiffened with whalebone or steel to accomplish this. While "tight lacing" of corsets was not a common practice except among a minority of women, which sometimes led to a woman needing to retire to the fainting room, the primary use of a corset was to create a smooth line for the garments to effect the fashionable shape of the day, using the optical illusion created by the corset and garments together to achieve the look of a smaller waist.^[8] By the 1880s, the dress reform movement was campaigning against the alleged pain and damage to internal organs and bones caused by tight lacing. Inez Gaches-Sarraute invented the "health corset", with a straight-fronted busk made to help support the wearer's muscles.

The corset was usually worn over a thin shirt-like shift of linen or cotton or muslin.^[9] Skirt styles became shorter and long drawers called pantalettes or pantaloons kept the legs covered. Pantalettes originated in France in the early 19th century, and quickly spread to Britain and America. Pantalettes were a form of leggings or long drawers. They could be one-piece or two separate garments, one for each leg, attached at the waist with buttons or laces. The crotch was left open for hygiene reasons.

"Health corsets" in 1883

As skirts became fuller from the 1830s, women wore many petticoats to achieve a fashionable bell shape. By the 1850s, stiffened crinolines and later hoop skirts allowed ever wider skirts to be worn. The bustle, a frame or pad worn over the buttocks to enhance their shape, had been used off and on by women for two centuries, but reached the height of its popularity in the later 1880s, and went out of fashion for good in the 1890s. Women dressed in crinolines often wore drawers under them for modesty and warmth.

Another common undergarment of the late 19th century for men, women, and children was the union suit. Invented in Utica, New York and patented in 1868, this was a one-piece front-buttoning garment usually made of knitted material with sleeves extending to the wrists and legs down to the ankles. It had a buttoned flap (known colloquially as the "access hatch", "drop seat", or "fireman's flap") in the back to ease visits to the toilet. The union suit was the precursor of long johns, a two-piece garment consisting of a long-sleeved top and long pants possibly named after American boxer John L. Sullivan who wore a similar garment in the ring.^[5]

The jockstrap was invented in 1874, by C.F. Bennett of a Chicago sporting goods company, Sharp & Smith, to provide comfort and support for bicycle jockeys riding the cobblestone streets of Boston, Massachusetts.^[5] In 1897 Bennett's newly formed Bike Web Company patented and began mass-producing the Bike Jockey Strap.^[10]

1900s to 1920s

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Ladies' underwear advertisement, 1913

How to handwash the New Britain Standard Hygienic Underwear, c. 1915

By the early 20th century, the mass-produced undergarment industry was booming, and competition forced producers to come up with all sorts of innovative and gimmicky designs to compete. The Hanes company emerged from this boom and quickly established itself as a top manufacturer of union suits, which were common until the 1930s.^[5] Textile technology continued to improve, and the time to make a single union suit dropped from days to minutes.

Meanwhile, designers of women's undergarments relaxed the corset. The invention of new, flexible but supportive materials allowed whalebone and steel bones to be removed. The emancipation or liberty bodice offered an alternative to constricting corsets, and in Australia and the UK the liberty bodice became a standard item for girls as well as women.

Men's underwear was also on the rise. Benjamin Joseph Clark, a migrant to Louisiana from New Jersey, opened a venture capitalist firm named Bossier in Bossier Parish. One product manufactured by his firm was tightly fitting boxer shorts that resembled modern underwear. Though the company was bankrupt by the early 20th century, it had some impact on men's underwear design.

Underwear advertising first made an appearance in the 1910s. The first underwear print advertisement in the US appeared in The Saturday Evening Post in 1911 and featured oil paintings by J. C. Leyendecker of the "Kenosha Klosed Krotch". Early underwear advertisements emphasized durability and comfort, and fashion was not regarded as a selling point.

By the end of the 1910s, Chalmers Knitting Company split the union suit into upper and lower sections, effectively inventing the modern undershirt and drawers. Women wore lacier versions of this basic duo known as the camisole and tap pants.

A corset over "step ins" and camisole, 1922

In 1912, the US had its first professional underwear designer. Lindsay "Layneau" Boudreaux, a French immigrant, established the short-lived panty company Layneau. Though her company closed within one year, it had a significant impact on many levels. Boudreaux showed the world that an American woman could establish and run a company, and she also caused a revolution in the underwear industry.

In 1913, a New York socialite named Mary Phelps Jacob created the first modern brassiere by tying two handkerchiefs together with ribbon. Jacob's original intention was to cover the whalebone sticking out of her corset, which was visible through her sheer dress. Jacob began making brassieres for her family and friends, and news of the garment soon spread by word of mouth. By 1914, Jacob had a patent for her design and was marketing it throughout the US. Although women had worn brassiere-like garments in years past, Jacob's was the first to be successfully marketed and widely adopted.

By the end of the decade, trouser-like "bloomers", which were popularized by Amelia Jenks Bloomer (1818–1894) but invented by Elizabeth Smith Miller, gained popularity with the so-called Gibson Girls who enjoyed pursuits such as cycling and tennis. This new female athleticism helped push the corset out of style. The other major factor in the corset's demise was the fact that metal was globally in short supply during the First World War. Steel-laced corsets were dropped in favor of the brassiere.

Bathing suit contest, 1920

Swimsuit competition, 2005

Meanwhile, World War I soldiers were issued button-front shorts as underwear. The buttons attached to a separate piece of cloth, or "yoke", sewn to the front of the garment, and tightness of fit was adjusted by means of ties on the sides. This design proved so popular that it began to supplant the union suit in popularity by the end of the war. Rayon garments also became widely available in the post-war period.

In the 1920s, manufacturers shifted emphasis from durability to comfort. Union suit advertisements raved about patented new designs that reduced the number of buttons and increased accessibility. Most of these experimental designs had to do with new ways to hold closed the crotch flap common on most union suits and drawers. A new woven cotton fabric called nainsook gained popularity in the 1920s for its durability. Retailers also began selling preshrunk undergarments.

Also in the 1920s, as hemlines of women's dresses rose, women began to wear stockings to cover the exposed legs. Women's bloomers also became much shorter. The shorter bloomers became looser and less supportive as the boyish flapper look came into fashion. By the end of the decade, they came to be known as "step-ins", very much like modern panties but with wider legs. They were worn for the increased flexibility they afforded.

The garter belt was invented to keep stockings from falling.

In 1928, Maidenform, a company operated by Ida Rosenthal, a Jewish immigrant from Russia, developed the brassiere and introduced modern cup sizes for bras.

1930s and 1940s

Modern men's underwear was largely an invention of the 1930s. On 19 January 1935, Coopers Inc. sold the world's first briefs in Chicago. Designed by an "apparel engineer" named Arthur Kneibler, briefs dispensed with leg sections and had a Y-shaped overlapping fly.^[5] The company dubbed the design the "Jockey" since it offered a degree of support that had previously only been available from the jockstrap. Jockey briefs proved so popular that over 30,000 pairs were sold within three months of their introduction. Coopers, renaming their company Jockey decades later, sent its "Mascul-line" plane to make special deliveries of "masculine support" briefs to retailers across the US. In 1938, when jockeys were introduced in the UK, they sold at the rate of 3,000 a week.^[5]

In this decade, companies also began selling buttonless drawers fitted with an elastic waistband. These were the first true boxer shorts, which were named for their resemblance to the shorts worn by professional fighters. Scovil Manufacturing introduced the snap fastener at this time, which became a popular addition to various kinds of undergarments.

Women of the 1930s brought the corset back, now called the "girdle". The garment lacked the whalebone and metal supports and usually came with a brassiere (now usually called a "bra") and attached garters.

During World War II, elastic waistbands and metal snaps gave way once again to button fasteners due to rubber and metal shortages. Undergarments were harder to find as well, since soldiers abroad had priority to obtain them. By the end of the war, Jockey and Hanes remained the industry leaders in the US, but Cluett, Peabody and Company made a name for itself when it introduced a preshrinking process called "Sanforization", invented by Sanford Cluett in 1933, which came to be licensed by most major manufacturers.

Meanwhile, some women adopted the corset once again, now called the "waspie" for the wasp-shaped waistline it gave the wearer. Many women began wearing the strapless bra as well, which gained popularity for its ability to push the breasts up and enhance cleavage.

1950s and 1960s

Before the 1950s, underwear consisted of simple, functional, white pieces of clothing which were not to be shown in public. In the 1950s, underwear came to be promoted as a fashion item in its own right, and came to be made in prints and colors. Manufacturers also experimented with rayon and newer fabrics like Dacron, nylon, and Spandex.^[5] By the 1960, men's underwear was regularly printed in loud patterns, or with messages or images such as cartoon characters. By the 1960s, department stores began offering men's double-seat briefs, an optional feature that would double the wear and add greater comfort. Stores advertising the double thickness seat as well as the manufacturing brands such as Hanes and BVD during this time period can be viewed^[11] using Newspapers.com.

Women's undergarments began to emphasize the breasts instead of the waist. The decade saw the introduction of the bullet bra pointed bust, inspired by Christian Dior's "New Look", which featured pointed cups. The original Wonderbra and push-up bra by Frederick's of Hollywood finally hit it big. Women's panties became more colorful and decorative, and by the mid-1960s were available in two abbreviated styles called the hip-hugger and the bikini (named after the Pacific Ocean island of that name), frequently in sheer nylon fabric.

Pantyhose, also called tights in British English, which combined panties and hose into one garment, made their first appearance in 1959,^[12] invented by Glen Raven Mills of North Carolina. The company later introduced seamless pantyhose in 1965, spurred by the popularity of the miniskirt. By the end of the decade, the girdle had fallen out of favor as women chose sexier, lighter, and more comfortable alternatives.^[13]

With the emergence of the woman's movement in the United States sales for pantyhose dropped off during the later half of the 1960s having soared initially.^[12]

1970s to the present day

Male models in briefs and trunks

A female in lingerie consisting of bra and panties, the basic items of women's undergarments

Underwear as fashion reached its peak in the 1970s and 1980s, and underwear advertisers forgot about comfort and durability, at least in advertising. Sex appeal became a main selling point, in swimwear as well, bringing to fruition a trend that had been building since at least the flapper era.

The tank top, an undershirt named after the type of swimwear dating from the 1920s known as a tank suit or maillot, became popular warm-weather casual outerwear in the US in the 1980s. Performers such as Madonna and Cyndi Lauper were also often seen wearing their undergarments on top of other clothes.

Although worn for decades by exotic dancers, in the 1980s the G-string first gained popularity in South America, particularly in Brazil. Originally a style of swimsuit, the back of the garment is so narrow that it disappears between the buttocks. By the 1990s the design had made its way to most of the Western world, and thong underwear became popular. Today, the thong is one of the fastest-selling styles of underwear among women, and is also worn by men.

While health and practicality had previously been emphasized, in the 1970s retailers of men's underpants began focusing on fashion and sex appeal. Designers such as Calvin Klein began featuring near-naked models in their advertisements for briefs. The increased wealth of the gay community helped to promote a diversity of undergarment choices.^{[citation needed]} In his book The Philosophy of Andy Warhol (1975),^[14] Andy Warhol wrote:

I told B I needed some socks too and at least 30 pairs of Jockey shorts. He suggested I switch to Italian-style briefs, the ones with the T-shaped crotch that tends to build you up. I told him I'd tried them once, in Rome, the day I was walking through a Liz Taylor movie – and I didn't like them because they made me too self-aware. It gave me the feeling girls must have when they wear uplift bras.^[5]

Warhol liked his Jockey briefs so much that he used a pair as a canvas for one of his dollar-sign paintings.^[5]

In the UK in the 1970s, tight jeans gave briefs a continued edge over boxer shorts among young men, but a decade later boxers were given a boost by Nick Kamen's performance in Levi's "Laundrette" TV commercial for its 501 jeans, during which he stripped down to a pair of white boxers in a public laundromat.^[5] Briefs however remained popular in America amongst young men from the 1950s until the mid 1990s; while in Australia the brief remains popular today and has become iconic.

The 1990s saw the introduction of boxer briefs, which take the longer shape of boxer shorts but maintain the tightness of briefs. Hip hop stars popularized "sagging", in which loosely fitting pants or shorts were allowed to droop below the waist thusly exposing the waistband or a greater portion of the underpants worn underneath; typically boxer shorts or boxer briefs. The chiseled muscularity of Mark Wahlberg (then known as Marky Mark) in a series of 1990s underwear advertisements for Calvin Klein boxer briefs led to his success as a hip hop star and a Hollywood actor.^[5]

Trends

See also: Underwear fetishism

Some people choose not to wear any underpants, a practice sometimes referred to as "going commando", for comfort, to enable their outer garments (particularly those which are form-fitting) to look more flattering, to avoid creating a panty line, because they find it sexually exciting,^[15] to increase ventilation and reduce moisture^[16][17] or because they do not see any need for them. Certain types of clothes, such as cycling shorts and kilts (See True Scotsman), are designed to be worn or are traditionally worn without underpants.^{[18][19][20][21][22]} This also applies for most clothes worn as nightwear and as swimwear. Some analysts have encouraged people with a higher than average libido to change their underpants more frequently than average due to hygiene-related issues of by-products such as cowper's fluid and vaginal lubrication.^[23]

Sagging pants, revealing the wearer's underwear.

Underwear is sometimes partly exposed for fashion reasons or to titillate. A woman may, for instance, allow the top of her brassiere to be visible from under her collar, or wear a see-through blouse over it. Some men wear T-shirts or A-shirts underneath partly or fully unbuttoned shirts. A common style among young men (2018) is to allow the trousers to sag below the waist, thus revealing the waistband or a greater portion of their underpants. This is commonly referred to (in North America) as "hang-low style". A woman wearing low-rise trousers may expose the upper rear portion of her thong underwear is said to display a "whale tail".

Used underwear

The sale of used female underwear for sexual purposes began in Japan, in stores called burusera, and it was even sold in vending machines. In the 21st century, when the Internet made anonymous mail-order sales possible for individuals, some women in the U.S. and UK, in response to male demand, began selling their dirty panties, and sometimes other underwear. Some men find the odor of a woman's bodily secretions sexually arousing, and will use the dirty panties as a masturbation aid. The sale of dirty panties, sometimes worn for several days, and sometimes customized with requested stains, is a significant niche in the sex work field. A far smaller market sells used male underwear to gay men.^[24][25]

Celebrity underwear is sometimes sold. A framed pair of Elvis Presley's dirty underwear sold for $8,000 in 2012.^{[26][27][28][29]} Undergarments of Marilyn Monroe, Queen Elizabeth, and former Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph have been sold at auction.^[27] The celebrities Jarvis Cocker, Alison Goldfrapp, Nick Cave, Sacha Baron Cohen, Ricky Gervais, Jah Wobble, Fergie, and Helen Mirren donated underwear to be sold for charity.^[30]

Types and styles

Common contemporary types and styles of undergarments are listed in the table below.

Type	Other Names	Notes	Varieties
Worn by both sexes
Whole body
Long underwear	long johns, long handles	A two-piece undergarment is worn during cold weather consisting of a shirt with sleeves extending to the wrists and leggings/pants/trousers with pant legs reaching down to the ankles.	thermal underwear – made from two-ply fabric
Upper body
T-shirt	tee	A garment covering a person's torso which is usually made without buttons, pockets, or a collar, and can have short or long sleeves. It is worn by pulling it over the head. It is often worn as an outer garment, especially in informal situations.	round-neck T-shirt V-neck T-shirt
Sleeveless shirt	tank top, wifebeater (slang), singlet, muscle shirt, athletic shirt, A-shirt	A sleeveless garment similar to a T-shirt. Also sometimes worn as an informal outer garment.	A-shirt (guinea tee, muscle shirt, singlet; UK: vest) – tight-fitting with large armholes and a neckline that can extend as far as mid-chest. camisole: a sleeveless undershirt for women
Lower body
Bikini briefs	bikini Australia: briefs (men’s)	Usually worn with the waistband lower than the wearer's true waist, and often at the hips, with the leg bands ending at the groin. Men's bikini briefs normally have no fly.	High-sided bikini briefs Low-sided bikini briefs String bikinis – consists of two triangular pieces connected at the groin but not at the sides, with a thin "string" around the waist connecting the pieces.
G-string	Gee-string, G string	A type of thong consisting of a narrow piece of material that covers or holds the genitals, passes between the buttocks, and is attached to a string around the hips.
C-String	Cee-string, C string	A type of thong which is as narrow as a G-string, but without the supporting "string" around the wearer's hips/panty line, leaving just a sideways C shaped piece between the legs.
Tanga	Cheeky	A type of thong which is wider than a G-string and fairly wide in the front, more like the wide V of a traditional brief. Fit tends to be more comfortable than that of a plain thong or G-string and is often more embellished.
Thong		Has a narrow strip of material along the centre of the garment's rear which sits between the wearer's buttocks and connects the front or pouch to the waistband behind the wearer. Thongs are sometimes worn to reduce "panty lines" when wearing tightly fitting trousers.
T-front		Has a narrow piece of cloth passing between the buttocks and the labia and only widening above the clitoris. It provides no coverage while still maintaining the basic hygienic underwear functions.
Worn by women
Upper body
Bra		Usually consists of two cups for the breasts, a centre panel (gore), a band running around the torso under the bust, and a shoulder strap for each side.	Balconette bra Demi bra Padded bra Push-up bra Sports bra Strapless bra T-shirt bra Wonderbra Bralette
Lower body
Boy shorts	booty shorts, boyleg briefs, boy short panties, boys' cut shorts, boyshorts, hipsters, shorties	A type of panties with sides that extend lower down the hips, similar to men's trunk briefs.
Tap pants	side-cut shorts, dance shorts, French knickers	A form of lingerie that covers the pelvic area and the upper part of the upper legs.
Panties	briefs, classic briefs UK: knickers	These usually have an elastic waistband, a crotch to cover the genital area which is usually lined with absorbent material such as cotton, and a pair of leg openings which are often also elasticized. They either have very short or no leg sections.	Control panties – usually made of stretchable material such as Spandex and extending above the waist, these are designed to provide support and create a slimmer appearance. High cut (French cut) panties. Hipster – worn lower with the waistband around the hips.
Worn by men
Lower body
Boxer briefs	UK: trunks	These are similar in style to boxer shorts, but are form-fitting like briefs.	Athletic-style boxer briefs – similar to bike shorts, these are skin-tight and usually have no fly. Pouch boxer briefs – these have a pouch for the genitals instead of a fly.
Trunks	trunk briefs, short-leg boxer briefs	These are similar in style to boxer briefs, but shorter in the inseam.	Pouch trunks – these have a pouch for the genitals
Midway briefs	midways, long-leg boxer briefs	These are similar in style to boxer briefs, while being longer in the legs, to near or up to the knees.	Gym midway briefs – skin-tight and usually have no fly Pouch midway briefs – these have a pouch for the genitals
Boxer shorts	boxers UK: trunks	These have an elasticized waistband that is at or near the wearer's waist, while the leg sections are fairly loose and extend to the mid-thigh. There is usually a fly, either with or without buttons. The waistbands of boxer shorts are usually wider than those of any type of briefs. Boxer shorts with colorful patterns, pictures of cartoon characters, sports team logos, and slogans are readily available.	Knit boxers Woven boxers
Briefs	classic briefs UK: Y-fronts US: tighty-whiteys (slang), jockey shorts, jockeys Australia: jocks (slang)	These have an elasticized waistband at or near the wearer's waist, and leg bands that end at or near the groin.	Traditional briefs – these have an inverted Y-shaped fly. Diagonal-flap briefs. Mid-rise briefs Low-cut or low-rise briefs Pouch briefs.
Jockstrap	athletic supporter, jock, nut cup (slang), strap, supporter	Consists of an elastic waistband with a support pouch for the genitalia and two elastic straps affixed to the base of the pouch and to the left and right sides of the waistband at the hip. In some varieties, the pouch may be fitted with a pocket to hold an impact-resistant cup to protect the genitals from injury. A jockstrap is different from a dance belt that a male dancer wears.	Strapless pouch – consists of a support pouch for the genitals and a waistband, with no securing straps.
Religious Under Clothing
Whole body
Temple garments		This kind of underwear is worn by Mormons.
Upper body
Tallit katan
Lower body
Kacchera

Industry

Market

A model showcases a bodysuit having integrated bra and panty, along with stockings

A woman in a camisole, garters, and stockings

In January 2008 it was reported that, according to market research firm Mintel, the men's underwear market in the UK was worth £674 million, and volume sales of men's underpants rose by 24% between 2000 and 2005. British manufacturers and retailers claim that most British men prefer "trunks", or short boxer briefs. The director of menswear of major British retailer Marks & Spencer (M&S), which sells 40 million pairs of men's underpants a year, was quoted as saying that while boxer shorts were still the most popular at M&S, demand was easing off in favor of hipster trunks similar in design to the swimming trunks worn by actor Daniel Craig in the James Bond film Casino Royale (2006).^[5]

In 1985, Fruit of the Loom, Hanes, and Jockey International had the largest shares of the U.S. men's underwear market; these companies had about 35%, 15%, and 10% of the market, respectively.^[31]

Gregory Woods, author of "We're Here, We're Queer and We're not Going Catalogue Shopping", stated that in companies often do not market men's underwear to straight men on the assumption that they are not interested in buying underwear for themselves; therefore many such advertisements are catered to women to convince them to buy underwear for their husbands, as well as to gay or bisexual men.^[32] In 1985 Jockey International president Howard Cooley stated that women often shop more than men do, and men request women to buy underwear for them.^[31] According to multiple studies conducted c. 1985, 60-80% of men's undergarments for sale had been purchased by women.^[31]

Designers and retailers

A number of major designer labels are renowned for their underwear collections, including Calvin Klein, Dolce & Gabbana, and La Perla. Likewise, specialist underwear brands are constantly emerging, such as Andrew Christian, 2(x)ist, Leonisa, and Papi.

Specialist retailers of underwear include high street stores La Senza (Canada), Agent Provocateur (UK), Victoria's Secret (U.S.), and GapBody, the lingerie division of the Gap established in 1998 (U.S.). In 2000, the online retailer, Freshpair, started in New York and in 2008 Abercrombie & Fitch opened a new chain of stores, Gilly Hicks, to compete with other underwear retailers.

The 2014 Stockholm Skateathon was sponsored by Björn Borg and the advertising campaign encouraged participants either skateboarding or longboarding, for example, to wear undergarments, and whilst it received criticism by the skateboarders, some people ended up dressing in the undergarments ^[33]

Not wearing undergarments

"Going commando" redirects here. For the video game, see Ratchet & Clank: Going Commando.

See also: Bralessness, No-pan kissa, and True Scotsman

Going without lower body undergarments has come to be known by the slang term going commando, as well as sometimes free-balling or free-buffing (referencing testicles and the vulva respectively).^[34]

The origins of the phrase go commando are uncertain, with some speculating that it may refer to being "out in the open" or "ready for action".^[35] The modern usage may be traced in the United States to university students c. 1974, where it was perhaps associated with soldiers in the Vietnam War, who were reputed to go without underwear to "increase ventilation and reduce moisture".^[36] The phrase was in use in the UK before then, referring mainly to women, from the late 1960s.^[34] The connection to the UK and women has been suggested to link to a World War II euphemism for prostitutes working in London's West End, who were termed "Piccadilly Commandos".^[37][38] The term was re-popularized after it appeared in a 1996 episode of Friends, where Joey Tribbiani wears everything Chandler Bing owns in an act of revenge, while also going "commando".^[39][40]

In a 2014 open-access internet-based poll, 60 Minutes and Vanity Fair asked visitors to their websites the question "How often do you 'go commando'?" A quarter of participants said that they did this at least occasionally, while 39% said they never did so, and 35% said that they did not know the meaning of the term.^[41][42]

See also

• Clothing portal
• Fashion portal

• Corset controversy
• Diaper
• Hosiery
• Ring, slide and hook
• Social aspects of clothing
• Swimsuit
• Trousers – Law – laws on underwear exposure
• Underwear as outerwear
• Underwear Museum - A museum in Lessines, Belgium, and previously in Brussels, displaying undergarments of famous persons

References

Notes

1. 
   

US Patent Number 6447493

Voelkel, Megan (31 July 2000). "Germ Warfare". The Standard. Archived from the original on 23 July 2009. Retrieved 23 May 2009.

Barsky, Steven; Long, Dick; Stinton, Bob (1999). Dry Suit Diving (3rd ed.). Santa Barbara, California: Hammerhead Press. ISBN 978-0-9674305-0-8.

"Preparing to enter the Holy Temple". The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. Retrieved 30 July 2016. Archive.org

Rushton, Susie (22 January 2008). "A brief history of pants: Why men's smalls have always been a subject of concern". The Independent (Extra). London. pp. 2–5.

"600-year-old bras unearthed in Austrian castle". Time. 19 July 2012. Retrieved 21 July 2012.

"Medieval lingerie from Lengberg, East-Tyrol". University of Innsbruck. Archived from the original on 6 February 2016. Retrieved 21 July 2012.

"Busting Corset Myths - Foundations Revealed". Archived from the original on 9 August 2020. Retrieved 23 April 2020.

"Regency nightwear: Shift". The Jane Austen Centre. Archived from the original on 21 May 2008. Retrieved 7 April 2008.

"History". BIKE Athletic Company. 2004. Archived from the original on 24 November 2007. Retrieved 7 April 2008.

"Clipped From The Post-Star". The Post-Star. 12 September 1968. p. 20. Retrieved 13 January 2020.

Belkin, Lisa (24 August 1986). "Lingerie's Great Leap Forward". The New York Times. Retrieved 17 October 2012.

Daniel Delis Hill (2005). As Seen in Vogue: A Century of American Fashion in Advertising [Costume Society of America series]. Lubbock: Texas Tech University Press. p. 153. ISBN 0-89672-534-0.

Andy Warhol (1975). The Philosophy of Andy Warhol: (From A to B and Back Again). London: Cassell. ISBN 0-86018-109-X.

Abundancia, Rita (12 November 2014). "¿Qué hay detrás de la afición a no llevar ropa interior? | Placeres, Sexo". S Moda EL PAÍS (in Spanish). Retrieved 11 May 2020.

Engber, Daniel (10 January 2005). "Do Commandos Go Commando?". Slate. Retrieved 23 December 2006.

https://www.facebook.com/mensvarietymag, Rico Woods (26 July 2021). "Here's Why Some Men Aren't Wearing Underwear at the Gym". https://mensvariety.com/. Retrieved 20 August 2023. {{cite web}}: |last= has generic name (help); External link in |last= and |website= (help)

Avilés, Goizane (18 September 2014). "El kilt no entiende de independencia". Bizkaia - El Correo.com (in Spanish). Retrieved 11 May 2020.

"The Real Story | Scottish Tartans Authority". www.tartansauthority.com. Retrieved 30 June 2020.

"Scots tradition hit by cover-up ruling - Times Online". 6 June 2010. Archived from the original on 6 June 2010. Retrieved 30 June 2020.

"What's Down Under? | Scottish Tartans Authority". www.tartansauthority.com. Retrieved 30 June 2020.

"Draught guidance: a kilt need underwear". The Daily Telegraph. 22 November 2010. ISSN 0307-1235. Retrieved 30 June 2020.

Bagnol, Brigitte; Mariano, Esmeralda (2008). "Vaginal practices: eroticism and implications for women's health and condom use in Mozambique". Culture, Health & Sexuality. 10 (6): 573–585. doi:10.1080/13691050801999071. PMID 18649196. S2CID 26412945.

Keegan, Natalie (29 August 2017). "Woman banks $60K selling her dirty underwear online". New York Post.

Hay, Mark (22 August 2018). "It's Surprisingly Difficult to Sell Your Panties Online". Vice. Retrieved 12 November 2018.

"Elvis Presley underpants could fetch £10,000 at auction". BBC. 26 August 2012. Retrieved 1 November 2018.

Battersby, Matilda (10 September 2012). "Briefs reprieve: Elvis Presley's dirty underpants fail to sell at auction". The Independent.

Dicker, Ron (27 August 2012). "Elvis Presley's Dirty Underwear Could Fetch $16,000 at Auction". HuffPost.

"Undies worn by Elvis Presley to be sold at auction. Unwashed underwear worn by 'The King' could fetch £10,000 at a UK auction next month". Daily Edge. 27 August 2012. Retrieved 4 November 2018.

Dombal, Ryan (24 March 2009). "Jarvis Cocker's Underwear Up for Auction". Pitchfork.

Kanner, Bernice. "Briefs Encounter: The Long and Shorts of It" ("On Madison Avenue" column). New York Magazine. New York Media, LLC, 29 April 1985. Vol. 18, No. 17. ISSN 0028-7369. Start p. 28. CITED: p. 28.

Woods, Gregory. "We're Here, We're Queer and We're not Going Catalogue Shopping" (Chapter 7). In: Burston, Paul and Colin Richardson (editors). A Queer Romance: Lesbians, Gay Men and Popular Culture. Routledge, 26 July 2005. ISBN 1134864825, 9781134864829. Start: p. 157. CITED: p. 166.

Ramirez, Eric (20 August 2014). "Björn Borg #SwedishMissions Video". The Underwear Expert. Retrieved 9 July 2021.

Donald, Graeme (2008), Sticklers, Sideburns and Bikinis: The military origins of everyday words and phrases, Osprey Publishing, p. 94, ISBN 9781846033001, retrieved 19 October 2012

Gisesa, Nyambega (16 April 2012). "When a little goes a long way to ruin your reputation". Zuqka. Nairobi: Nation Media Group. Archived from the original on 23 July 2013. Retrieved 17 September 2013. It's during the Vietnamese war, that the earliest cases of going without underwear were recorded. It meant ... being 'out in the open' or 'ready for action'.

Engber, Daniel (10 January 2005). "Do Commandos Go Commando?". Slate. Retrieved 23 December 2006.

Gardiner, Juliet (2005). Wartime: Britain 1939-1945. Headline Review. ISBN 0755310284.

Wagner, Paul. "Rest and Relaxation, WW II Style". 398th Bomb Group Memorial Association. Retrieved 23 December 2014.

Heller, Jason; Koski, Genevieve; Murray, Noel; O'Neal, Sean; Pierce, Leonard; Tobias, Scott; VanDerWerff, Todd; Zulkey, Claire (21 June 2010). "TV in a bottle: 19 great TV episodes largely confined to one location". The A.V. Club. Archived from the original on 25 June 2010. Retrieved 21 June 2010. [T]he episode also introduced the term 'going commando' into the popular vernacular.

Hendrickson, Eric (27 October 1996). "Buzz word 'going commando' gets an airing on 'Friends'". Sunday Times-Sentinel. Vol. 31, no. 38. p. C3. (copy from The Detroit News)

"60 Minutes Poll: 25 Percent of Americans Don't Wear Underwear Sometimes". Vanity Fair. April 2014. Retrieved 31 January 2019. To answer the questions yourself, visit the 60 Minutes homepage at CBSNews.com.

42. 60 Minutes/Vanity Fair: Fashion; Who's afraid of Anna Wintour or Tim Gunn? More Americans fear fashion criticism from their mates, CBS Interactive, 10 March 2014

Further reading

• Benson, Elaine; John Esten (1996). Unmentionables: A Brief History of Underwear. New York: Simon & Schuster.
• Cunnington, C[ecil] Willett; Phillis Cunnington (1992). The History of Underclothes. New York: Dover Publications. ISBN 0-486-27124-2. First published in London by Michael Joseph in 1951.
• Hawthorne, Rosemary (1993). Stockings & Suspenders: A Quick Flash. Lucy Pettifer & Claire Taylor (ill.). London: Souvenir. ISBN 0-285-63143-8.
• Martin, Richard [Harrison]; Harold Koda (1993). Infra-apparel. photographs by Neil Selkirk. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. ISBN 0-8109-6430-9.

External links

Look up undergarment in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Underwear.

• Historical Lingerie pictures from the New York Public Library Picture Collection Archived 9 August 2020 at the Wayback Machine
• Handmade women's underwear set, 1911, in the Staten Island Historical Society Online Collections Database.

v t e Lingerie

v t e Men's undergarments

v t e Clothing

v t e Historical clothing

Authority control: National	France BnF data Germany Israel United States Latvia Japan Czech Republic

Categories:

• Undergarments
• History of clothing (Western fashion)
• History of fashion

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Underwear

Two-piece long underwear

Long underwear, also called long johns or thermal underwear, is a style of two-piece underwear with long legs and long sleeves that is normally worn during cold weather. It is commonly worn by people under their clothes in cold countries.

In the United States, it is usually made from a cotton or cotton-polyester-blend fabric with a waffle weave texture, although some varieties are also made from flannel, particularly the union suit, while many newer varieties are made from polyester, such as the Capilene trade name.^{[citation needed]}

European manufacturers use wool blends or even 100% wool, usually Merino or other high-quality wool.^{[citation needed]} Some models might include a thin layer of polyester to transport moisture away from the skin. Wool, in addition to being fire retardant, provides highly effective insulation and will keep its insulating properties even when wet, as opposed to cotton.

The type known as "thermal underwear" is made from two-ply fabric of either a wool layer and an artificial fibre, only wool or – again mostly in the U.S. – two layers of only artificial fibres, which uses trapped body heat to insulate against cold air. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Long_underwear

Etymology of long johns

The manufacturing foundations of long johns may lie in Derbyshire, England, at John Smedley's Lea Mills, located in Matlock. The company has a 225-year heritage and is said to have created the garment, reputedly named after the late-19th-century heavyweight boxer John L. Sullivan; the company still produces long johns.^[1]

In 2004, Michael Quinion, a British etymologist and writer, postulated that the john in the item of apparel may be a reference to Sullivan, who wore a similar-looking garment in the ring. This explanation, however, is uncertain and the term's origin is ultimately unknown.^[2]

It has also been posed that the term is an approximation of the French longues jambes, which translates to 'long legs.'

History of long johns

Long johns were first introduced into England in the 17th century, but they did not become popular as sleepwear until the 18th century. They were first used as loungewear but then later became popular in Truro, Nova Scotia. In 1898, Myles and his brother John had developed a product called Stanfield's Unshrinkable Underwear for their garment manufacturing company.

Long johns first appeared in North America when Frank Stanfield, a Canadian, applied for the first patent for the long johns design. He and his brother started with non-shrinking cotton underwear and formally applied for a patent for long johns on December 7, 1915, becoming the pioneer of long johns.^{[citation needed]}

Washing long underwear

From 1914 to mid-1918, the item of underwear most purchased by various military forces was a garment known as a union suit; it is a one-piece form of underwear covering body and legs and was the prototype of the Chinese qiuyi (秋衣), the top part, and qiuku (秋裤), the bottom part.

After 1918, countries returned to producing more and more daily usages.^{[clarification needed]} The Industrial Revolution progressed in accordance with the concept of the assembly line and division of labor. Manual laborers who were physically active were divided into laborers who performed more upper-body activity and laborers with more lower-body activity. It then became more and more obvious that qiuyi and qiuku as separate parts was better than a one-piece garment.^{[citation needed]}

In 1940, the United States did not have today's indoor heating solutions; many people used stoves to heat rooms in winter. At that time, one not only had to wear long underwear or the union suit but also a nightcap when going to bed, and the frequency of bathing was far less than the current time.^{[citation needed]}

During the US-Soviet Kitchen Debate in 1959, Khrushchev questioned the technological level of Nixon's "typical American housing" – judging from the historical reference to long pants, the appliances displayed in the United States may have been more advanced.^[relevant?] 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Long_underwear

underclothes

See also: under clothes

Contents

• 1 English
  • 1.1 Alternative forms
  • 1.2 Etymology
  • 1.3 Noun
    • 1.3.1 Synonyms
    • 1.3.2 Coordinate terms
    • 1.3.3 Related terms
    • 1.3.4 Translations
    • 1.3.5 See also

English

Alternative forms

• under clothes

Etymology

under +‎ clothes

Noun

underclothes pl (plural only)

1. (plural only) clothes worn next to the skin and underneath outer clothing

Synonyms

• underwear
• undies
• smalls
• unmentionables

Coordinate terms

• overclothes

Related terms

• undercloth

Translations

±

clothes worn next to the skin

See also

• boxers, bra, briefs, corset, girdle
• long johns, panties, shorts, skivvies, slip

Categories:

• English compound terms
• English lemmas
• English nouns
• English pluralia tantum
• en:Clothing

https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/underclothes

Dry suit

U.S. Navy divers in contamination dry suits preparing to dive
Uses	Environmental protection of underwater divers, boaters and other people who may be immersed in water.
Inventor	Augustus Siebe (1837)[1]: Ch1
Related items	Diving suit, Wetsuit, Survival suit

A dry suit or drysuit provides the wearer with environmental protection by way of thermal insulation and exclusion of water,^[2][3][4][5] and is worn by divers, boaters, water sports enthusiasts, and others who work or play in or near cold or contaminated water. A dry suit normally protects the whole body except the head, hands, and possibly the feet. In hazmat configurations, however, all of these are covered as well.^[6]

The main difference between dry suits and wetsuits is that dry suits are designed to prevent water from entering. This generally allows better insulation, making them more suitable for use in cold water. Dry suits can be uncomfortably hot in warm or hot air, and are typically more expensive and more complex to don. For divers, they add some degree of operational complexity and hazard as the suit must be inflated and deflated with changes in depth in order to minimize "squeeze" on descent or uncontrolled rapid ascent due to excessive buoyancy, which requires additional skills for safe use.^[7] Dry suits provide passive thermal protection: Undergarments are worn for thermal insulation against heat transfer to the environment and chosen to suit expected conditions.^[7] When this is insufficient, active warming or cooling may be provided by chemical or electrically powered heating accessories.^[1]: Ch1

The essential components are the waterproof shell, the seals, and the watertight entry closure.^[1] A number of accessories are commonly fitted, particularly to dry suits used for diving, for safety, comfort and convenience of use. Gas inflation and exhaust equipment are generally used for diving applications, primarily for maintaining the thermal insulation of the undergarments, but also for buoyancy control and to prevent squeeze. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_suit

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

For the modern undergarment sometimes called a "petticoat", see half slip.

American petticoat, 1855–1865

Modern petticoat

A petticoat or underskirt is an article of clothing, a type of undergarment worn under a skirt or a dress. Its precise meaning varies over centuries and between countries.

According to the Oxford English Dictionary, in current British English, a petticoat is "a light loose undergarment ... hanging from the shoulders or waist". In modern American usage, "petticoat" refers only to a garment hanging from the waist. They are most often made of cotton, silk or tulle. Without petticoats, skirts of the 1850s would not have the volume they were known for.^[1] In historical contexts (16th to mid-19th centuries), petticoat refers to any separate skirt worn with a gown, bedgown, bodice or jacket; these petticoats are not, strictly speaking, underwear, as they were made to be seen. In both historical and modern contexts, petticoat refers to skirt-like undergarments worn for warmth or to give the skirt or dress the desired attractive shape.

Terminology

Sometimes a petticoat may be called a waist slip or underskirt (UK) or half slip (US), with petticoat restricted to extremely full garments. A chemise hangs from the shoulders. Petticoat can also refer to a full-length slip in the UK,^[2] although this usage is somewhat old-fashioned.

History

See also: History of Western fashion

Silk embroidery on petticoat, Portugal, c. 1760

Washer woman petticoat inspired skirt and jacket by Sybil Connolly

In the 14th century, both men and women wore undercoats called "petticotes".^[3] The word "petticoat" came from Middle English pety cote^[4] or pety coote,^[5] meaning "a small coat/cote".^[6] Petticoat is also sometimes spelled "petty coat".^[7] The original petticoat was meant to be seen and was worn with an open gown.^[3] The practice of wearing petticoats as undergarments was well established in England by 1585.^[8] In French, petticoats were called jupe.^[9] The basquina, worn in Spain, was considered a type of petticoat.^[10]

The petticoat in western men’s dress, what would become known in later years develop into the waistcoat, was from the mid-15^th century to around the 17^th century an under-doublet.^[11] The garment was worn in cooler months under a shirt for warmth, and was usually padded or quilted.^[11]

In the 18th century in Europe and in America, petticoats were an integral component of a gown, considered a part of the exterior garment and were meant to be seen.^[9] The term petticoat was used to refer to such an outer skirt from the 16^th to the 19^th century, which were fashioned from either matching or contrasting textiles, in simple fabrics, or were highly decoratively embroidered.^[11] An underpetticoat was considered an undergarment and was shorter than a regular petticoat.^[9] Underpetticoats were also known as a dickey.^[12] Also in the American colonies, working women wore shortgowns (bedgowns) over petticoats that normally matched in color.^[13] The hem length of a petticoat in the 18th century depended on what was fashionable in dress at the time.^[14] Often, petticoats had slits or holes for women to reach pockets inside.^[14] Petticoats were worn by all classes of women throughout the 18th century.^[15] The style known as polonaise revealed much of the petticoat intentionally.^[12]

In the early 19th century, dresses became narrower and simpler with much less lingerie, including "invisible petticoats".^[16] Then, as the waltz became popular in the 1820s, full-skirted gowns with petticoats were revived in Europe and the United States.

In the Victorian era, petticoats were cemented as undergarments, used to give bulk and shape to the skirts worn over the petticoat.^[12] By the mid 19th century, petticoats were worn over hoops also known as crinoline.^[12] Popular white cotton petticoats as an undergarment in this 1860s, for example, regularly featured a lace and broderie anglaise decorative border.^[11] As the bustle became popular in the 1870s, petticoats developed flounces towards the back in order to cater for this style of under structure.^[17] Petticoats also continued to be worn in layers through this decade.^[18] Coloured petticoats came into fashion by the 1890s,^[17] with many being made from silk and featuring decorative frills to the bottom edge.^[11]

In the early 20th century, petticoats were circular, had flounces and buttons, in which women could attach additional flounces to the garment.^[19] Bloomers were also touted as a replacement for petticoats when working and by fashion reformers.^[20][21]

After World War I, silk petticoats were in fashion.^[12]

Petticoats were revived by Christian Dior in his full-skirted "New Look" of 1947, and tiered, ruffled, stiffened petticoats remained extremely popular during the 1950s and 1960s.^[12] These were sold in a few clothing stores as late as 1970.

Sybil Connolly recalled how a red flannel petticoat, worn by a Connemara woman, inspired her first international fashion collection which took place in New York in 1953.^[22][23] She had travelled to Connemara for inspiration, where she saw a woman wearing a traditional red flannel petticoat. She bought a bolt of the same fabric from the local shop and made it into a quilted evening skirt, which was a huge success at the fashion show.^[23] One of these skirts is part of the collection at The Hunt Museum.

Non-Western petticoats

Underskirts worn under non-Western clothing, such as the ghagra worn under a sari, are also often called petticoats. Sari petticoats usually match the color of the sari and are made of satin or cotton.^[24] Compared to the Western petticoat, South Asian petticoats are rarely shorter than ankle length and are always worn from the waist down. They may also be called inner skirts^[25] or inskirts.

In Japan, similar to a petticoat, a nagajuban (commonly referred to simply as a juban; a hadajuban is sometimes worn underneath a nagajuban) are worn under the kimono as a form of underwear similar in function to the petticoat. The juban resembles a shorter kimono, typically without two half-size front panels (the okumi) and with sleeves only marginally sewn up along the wrist-end. Juban are commonly made of white silk, though historically were typically made of red silk; as the collar of the juban shows underneath the kimono and is worn against the skin, a half-collar (a han'eri) is often sewn to the collar as a protector, and also for decoration. The hadajuban is sometimes worn underneath the juban, and resembles a tube-sleeved kimono-shaped top, without a collar, and an accompanying skirt slip.

In popular culture

The early feminist Mary Wollstonecraft was disparaged by Horace Walpole as a "hyena in petticoats".^[26] Florentia Sale was dubbed "the Grenadier in Petticoats"^[27] for travelling with her military husband Sir Robert Henry Sale around the British Empire.

The phrase "petticoat government" has referred to women running government or domestic affairs.^[28] The phrase is usually applied in a positive tone welcoming female governance of society and home, but occasionally is used to imply a threat to "appropriate" government by males, as was mentioned in several of Henry Fielding's plays.^[29] An Irish pamphlet Petticoat Government, Exemplified in a Late Case in Ireland was published in 1780.^[30] The American writer Washington Irving used the phrase in Rip Van Winkle (1819).^[31] Frances Trollope wrote Petticoat Government: A Novel in 1850.^[32] Emma Orczy wrote Petticoat Government, another novel, in 1911. G. K. Chesterton (1874–1936) mentions petticoat in a positive manner; to the idea of female dignity and power in his book What's Wrong With the World (1910) he states:^[33]

It is quite certain that the skirt means female dignity, not female submission; it can be proved by the simplest of all tests. No ruler would deliberately dress up in the recognized fetters of a slave; no judge would appear covered with broad arrows. But when men wish to be safely impressive, as judges, priests or kings, they do wear skirts, the long, trailing robes of female dignity. The whole world is under petticoat government; for even men wear petticoats when they wish to govern.

President Andrew Jackson's administration was beset by a scandal called the "Petticoat affair", dramatized in the 1936 film The Gorgeous Hussy. A 1943 comedy film called Petticoat Larceny (cf. petty larceny) depicted a young girl being kidnapped by grifters. In 1955, Iron Curtain politics were satirized in a Bob Hope and Katharine Hepburn film The Iron Petticoat. In the same year Western author Chester William Harrison wrote a short story "Petticoat Brigade" that was turned into the film The Guns of Fort Petticoat in 1957. Blake Edwards filmed a story of an American submarine filled with nurses from the Battle of the Philippines called Operation Petticoat (1959). Petticoat Junction was a CBS TV series that aired in 1963.^[34] CBS had another series in the 1966–67 season called Pistols 'n' Petticoats.^[35]

See also

• Breeching (boys), a historical practice involving the change of dress from petticoat-like garments to trouser-like ones
• Crinolines and hoop skirts, stiff petticoats made of sturdy material used to extend skirts into a fashionable shape
• Peshgeer

References

Citations

1. 
   

"How to Put Together Cute Outfits With Skirts". classroom.synonym.com. Retrieved 2020-08-16.

Oxford English Dictionary (1989) "A light loose undergarment ... hanging from the shoulders or waist"

Wilcox, Ruth Turner (1970). The Dictionary of Costume. London: Batsford. p. 267. ISBN 0713408561.

"petticoat". Merriam-Webster Dictionary.

"Origin and meaning of petticoat". Online Etymology Dictionary. Retrieved 2018-01-29.

Mitchell, James (1908). Significant Etymology: Or, Roots, Stems, and Branches of the English Language. William Blackwood and Sons. pp. 162.

Picken 1957, p. 249.

Cunnington & Cunnington 1992, p. 49.

Sholtz 2016, p. 216.

Planché, James Robinson (1879). A Cyclopaedia of Costume Or Dictionary of Dress, Including Notices of Contemporaneous Fashions on the Continent: A general history of costume in Europe. Vol. 2. London: Chatto and Windus. pp. 158–159.

Cumming, Valerie; Cunnington, C. W.; Cunnington, P. E. (2017). The Dictionary of Fashion History (2nd ed.). London: Bloomsbury Academic. pp. 205–206. ISBN 978-1-4725-7770-2.

Adlington, Lucy (2015-10-08). Stitches in Time: The Story of the Clothes We Wear. Random House. ISBN 9781473505094.

Baumgarten 2002, p. 118.

Sholtz 2016, p. 217.

Sholtz 2016, p. 218.

Cunnington & Cunnington 1992, p. 112.

Cunnington & Cunnington 1992, p. 196.

Cunnington & Cunnington 1992, p. 177.

"French Lingerie". The Tipton Daily Tribune. 1965-12-04. p. 2. Retrieved 2018-01-26 – via Newspapers.com.

"For the Housewife". Edgefield Advertiser. 1902. p. 4. Retrieved 2018-01-26 – via Newspapers.com.

Cunningham 2003, p. 94.

"Sybil Connolly Interview". RTÉ Archives. Retrieved 2022-01-20.

Nemy, Enid (1998-05-08). "Sybil Connolly, 77, Irish Designer Who Dressed Jacqueline Kennedy". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2022-01-20.

"Petticoats / Skirts". Priyanka's. Archived from the original on 2001-07-13.

"How to wear saree perfectly". Glowpink. 26 March 2015. Archived from the original on 27 September 2018. Retrieved 6 June 2017.

Bentley, Toni (29 May 2005). "A 'Hyena in Petticoats'". The New York Times. Retrieved 29 January 2018.

Hugh Williams (2008), Fifty Things You Need to Know About British History, HarperCollins, pp. 302–303, ISBN 978-0-00-727841-1

"Definition of petticoat government in English". Oxford Dictionaries. Archived from the original on January 27, 2018. Retrieved 2018-01-26.

Campbell, Jill. Natural Masques: Gender and Identity in Fielding's Plays and Novels, p. 21. Stanford University Press.

Higgins 2010, p. 184.

"Rip Van Winkle", p. 60.

Frances Milton Trollope (1850). Petticoat government: A novel, Volume 1. Henry Colburn. Retrieved 8 August 2011.

Chesterton, Gilbert Keith (2007). What's Wrong With the World (Unabridged republication of edition: New York : Sheed & Ward, 1952; originally published: 1910 ed.). Mineola, New York: Dover Publication. p. 111. ISBN 978-0-486-45427-6.

Du Brow, Rick (1963-05-18). "Jerry Lewis Bars Ads; Bea Set for Petticoat Junction". The Pensacola News. p. 6. Retrieved 2018-01-26 – via Newspapers.com.

35. Du Brow, Rick (1965-12-04). "Television in Review". The Tipton Daily Tribune. p. 2. Retrieved 2018-01-26 – via Newspapers.com.

Sources

• Baumgarten, Linda (2002). What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America. New Haven: Yale University Press. ISBN 9780300095807.
• Cunningham, Patricia A. (2003). Reforming Women's Fashion, 1850-1920: Politics, Health and Art. Kent, Ohio: The Kent State University Press. ISBN 0873387422.
• Cunnington, C. Willett; Cunnington, Phillis (1992). The History of Underclothes (New ed.). Dover. ISBN 9780486271248.
• Higgins, Padhraig (2010). A Nation of Politicians: Gender, Patriotism, and Political Culture in Late Eighteenth-Century Ireland. University of Wisconsin Press. ISBN 9780299233334 – via Project MUSE.
• Picken, Mary Brooks (1957). The Fashion Dictionary: Fabric, Sewing, and Dress as Expressed in the Language of Fashion. New York: Funk & Wagnalls Company.
• Sholtz, Mackenzie Anderson (2016). "Petticoat, 1715-1785". In Blanco, Jose; Doering, Mary D. (eds.). Clothing and Fashion: American Fashion from Head to Toe. Vol. 1. Santa Barbara, California: ABC-CLIO. ISBN 9781610693103.

External links

Look up petticoat in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Petticoats.

• Quilted Petticoat, 1750-1790, in the Staten Island Historical Society Online Collections Database
• Petticoat-Government in a Letter to the Court Lords (1702)

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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

High-gloss, sheer-to-waist pantyhose

Pantyhose brief styles (top to bottom, left to right): control-top, sheer-to-waist and simple-panty sections

Pantyhose, sometimes also called sheer tights, are close-fitting legwear covering the wearer's body from the waist to the toes. Pantyhose first appeared on store shelves in 1959 for the advertisement of new design panties (Allen Gant's product, 'Panti-Legs')^[1] as a convenient alternative to stockings and/or control panties which, in turn, replaced girdles.

Like stockings or knee highs, pantyhose are usually made of nylon, or of other fibers blended with nylon. Pantyhose are designed to:

• Be attractive in appearance,
• Hide physical features such as blemishes, bruises, scars, hair, spider veins, or varicose veins,
• Reduce visible panty lines,^[2] and
• Ease chafing between feet and footwear, or between thighs.

Besides being worn as fashion, in Western society pantyhose are sometimes worn by women as part of formal dress. Also, the dress code of some companies and schools may require pantyhose or fashion tights to be worn when skirts or shorts are worn as part of a uniform. Men also can wear them under trousers or shorts either for work wear or leisure.

Terminology

The term "pantyhose" originated in the United States^[3] and rid the combination of panties (an American English term) with sheer nylon hosiery. In British English, these garments are called "sheer tights". The term tights alone refers to all such garments regardless of whether they are sheer lingerie or sturdy outerwear.

In American English, the term "tights" typically refers to pantyhose-like garments made from thicker material, which are generally opaque or slightly translucent. Opaque leg wear made of material such as spandex are often worn by both sexes for athletic activities or as utility clothing, and are usually referred to as "leggings", a term that includes casual wear. The primary difference between tights and leggings is that leggings can be worn as outerwear, whereas tights are not. In most cases, leggings will have a seam on the inside of the leg, whereas the legs of tights will be seamless. Leggings will often be footless, whereas tights usually will not.

History

The Macarte Sisters wearing tights under their leotard based costumes in 1910

The history of pantyhose, as for stockings, is tied to that of changes in styles of women's hemlines. Before the 1920s, it was generally expected that women would cover their legs in public, including their ankles; and dress and skirt hemlines were generally to the ground. The main exceptions were in sports and entertainment, making tights a more suitable choice.^[4] In cases of high cut legs or fabrics that would produce a visible panty line, it was a practical necessity to wear them as the only lower undergarment. In the 1920s, fashionable hemlines for women began to rise, exposing the legs to just below the knees. Stockings also came into vogue to maintain leg coverage, as well as some level of warmth. The most popular stockings were sheer hosiery which were first made of silk or rayon (then known as "artificial silk"), and, after 1940, made of nylon, which had been invented by DuPont in 1938. During the 1940s and 1950s, stage and film producers would sew stockings to the briefs of their actresses and dancers, as testified to by singer-actress-dancer Ann Miller.^[5][6] These garments were seen in popular motion pictures such as Daddy Long Legs.

In 1953, Allen Gant Sr. of Glen Raven Knitting Mills developed a commercial equivalent to these hose that he named "Panti-Legs", but these were not brought to the open market until about 1959.^[7] During this time, Ernest G. Rice invented his own design for pantyhose similar to those worn today, and in 1956 he submitted a patent titled "Combination Stockings and Panty".^[8] This design was adopted by other makers, and this caused disputes in U.S. courts for many years before the patent was upheld some time after Rice's own death.^[9] In 1974, actress Julie Newmar successfully filed a patent for “Pantyhose with shaping band for cheeky derriere relief”, a garment innovation made famous through the costume she designed in the 1960s for her role as Catwoman in the TV show Batman.

Up until this time, there was little reason for women outside show business to wear "panty hose", as the longer hemlines allowed for the use of over-the-knee stockings secured with a garter belt. Nonetheless, during the 1960s, improved textile manufacturing processes made pantyhose increasingly more affordable, while human-made textiles such as spandex (or elastane) made them more comfortable and durable. The advent of the fashionable miniskirt, which exposed the legs to well above the knee, made pantyhose a necessity to many women. In 1970, U.S. sales of pantyhose exceeded stockings for the first time, and it has remained so ever since.^[10] Pantyhose became a wardrobe staple throughout the 1970s and 1980s.

Sheer tights with a control-top

From 1995 a steady decline began, leveling off in 2006 with U.S. sales less than half of what they had once been. This decline has been attributed to bare legs in fashion, changes in workplace dress code, and the increased popularity of trousers.^[11]

While sales of traditional styles did not recover, the 2000s saw the rise of other specific styles. Fishnet hose, patterns and colors, opaque tights, low-rise pantyhose, footless shapewear, and pantyhose for men (playfully referred to as "mantyhose") all experienced increased sales. In the 2010s, an increasing popularity for form-fitting opaque leggings paired with casual dress (and even some officewear) supplanted the fashion role previously held by pantyhose, although pantyhose remain popular as part of formalwear.^[12][13]

Pantyhose vending machine at Town Hall railway station, Sydney, Australia

Composition

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Pantyhose generally have a standard construction: the top of the waist is a strong elastic; the part covering the hips and the buttocks (the panty area) is composed of a thicker material than for the legs. The gusset or crotch covering the genitalia is a stronger material, sometimes made of porous cotton, but the legs of the pantyhose are made of the thinnest usable fabrics, and it has a consistent construction down to the wearer's toes. These can be reinforced to guard against wear and tear.^[14]

Most pantyhose are composed of nylon and a mixture of spandex, which provides the elasticity and form-fitting that is characteristic of modern pantyhose. The nylon fabric is somewhat prone to tearing ("running"), and it is common for very sheer hose to "run" soon after snagging on anything that is rough or sharp.^[14]

Variations in pantyhose construction exist, such as with fishnet pantyhose. Pantyhose may be composed of other materials such as silk, cotton, cashmere or wool.

Styles

Fishnet pantyhose

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Pantyhose are available in a wide range of styles. The sheerness of the garment, expressed as a numerical "denier"/'dtex", ranges from 3 (extremely rare, very thin, barely visible) up to 20 (standard sheer), 30 (semi opaque) up to 250 (opaque). The term denier is often referred to the weight of the yarn that was used to produce the item of hosiery. A higher denier of yarn results in a thicker pair of tights.

Control-top pantyhose, intended to boost a slimmer figure, has a reinforced-panty section. The panty section may be visible when wearing short skirts or shorts.

Sheer-to-waist pantyhose is sheer throughout, with the panty portion being the same thickness and color as the leg portion, and are designed for use with high-slit gowns, miniskirts, hot pants, or lingerie. Often sheer-to-waist pantyhose will be reinforced along and on either side of the seam in the middle of the panty. Often sheer-to-waist pantyhose comes with sandal toes - invisibly reinforced toes part.

Open toe pantyhose starts from the waist and ends just before the toes, leaving toes free, which allows legs to be covered with the tights, but toes to be shown in sandals or peep toe shoes.

Open-crotch pantyhose, sometimes known as crotchless pantyhose, do not have a gusset. Instead, an opening is in place for hygiene or sexual-fetishism activities.

Some pantyhose have single- or double-panel gussets incorporated into them. In single-panel, there are two seams instead of the usual one, with a single seam on the opposite side; with double-panel gussets, there are two seams on either side.

Concerns

The disadvantages of pantyhose includes:

• Unlike cotton, nylon is not an absorbent material. As a result, perspiration is more likely to remain in contact with the feet, legs and genital area, thereby encouraging bacterial growth and associated odor. Some hosiery products contain silver to help prevent odor and sweating of the feet, thus making the wearing of hosiery a more pleasant experience. Wearing natural fiber silk stockings and tights is another means of reducing perspiration.
• Some women do not wear pantyhose for environmental reasons, noting that they usually cannot be recycled, and nylon pantyhose are not biodegradable. Disposing of the item contributes to overuse of landfill. Burning nylon pantyhose sometimes releases toxins into the atmosphere.

This used to be the case but in the UK, local authorities accept clean, dry textiles along with other recyclables. This is both at recycling centres and curb-side collections. Textiles (including tights, pantyhose and stockings) which cannot be re-worn are recycled and turned into things like roofing felt. There are several internet sites which explain ways of reusing pantyhose (laddered or otherwise). In the US, nylon stockings, tights, and pantyhose can be sent to Recycled Crafts to be used in craft projects like pet toys, rugs, placemats, and table runners.^[15] Swedish Stockings, maker of hosiery, has a program to grind down old pantyhose for use in oil and grease traps.^[16] In the past, hosiery manufacturer No Nonsense had a recycling program,^[17] and so did Matter of Trust.^[18]

• Pantyhose have been criticized for being flimsy because the thin knit fabric is prone to tearing or laddering (or "running").^[11] The wearer can cause a run in the hose by catching a toenail in the fabric when the hose is put on, by catching it on a rough surface like a corner of a desk, or a car, and by numerous other risks. Some women apply clear nail polish or hair spray to their hose to prevent runs from growing. Some of brands offer "ladder-resist" pantyhose which are more durable than regular ones.

Use by men

While usually considered to be a woman's garment, pantyhose can also be worn by men, for example for thermal protection, therapeutic relief or simply as a lifestyle choice. Race horse jockeys may wear pantyhose under their uniform to enable them to glide freely over the legs and waist when the jockey's body moves at a rapid pace.^[19] Some fishermen who surf fish from tropical beaches may wear pantyhose for protection from jellyfish whose stingers are triggered by contact with a chemical on bare skin.^[20][21][22] In the late 1990s, several manufacturers introduced pantyhose styles designed for men to cater to this niche market.^[23][24]

Gallery

• 

  A man wearing mantyhose (pantyhose designed specifically for men)

• 

  Girl wearing pantyhose and a polkadot dress

• 

  Example of a "run" or "ladder"

• 

  Image of a woman with her legs and pantyhose posing erotically, an example of tights fetishism.

See also

• Underwear fetishism

References

1. 
   

Caputo, Joseph (July 7, 2009). "50 Years of Pantyhose". Smithsonian. Archived from the original on October 31, 2021. Retrieved May 31, 2019.

Glen Raven, Inc.: Turnpage advertisement "How do gals get this sleek bell bottom look without the bumps of garters and panties? - They don't wear any. They wear Glen Raven Panti-Legs in Cantrece.", USA, 1966

"Tights Are Now a Fall Fashion Staple—But They Were Once a Revolutionary Style Statement". Time. Retrieved 2022-02-25.

"History of Pantyhose, Tights, Stockings and Thigh Highs". VienneMilano. Retrieved February 25, 2022.

Miller, Ann (August 20, 1997). "Private Screenings: Ann Miller". Private Screenings (Interview). Interviewed by Robert Osborne. Turner Classic Movies.

"Private screenings: Ann Miller". Turner Classic Movies. January 2012. Archived from the original on October 23, 2012. Retrieved July 2, 2016.

Gant, Margaret Elizabeth (1979). The Raven's Story. Glen Raven, North Carolina: Glen Raven, Inc. ISBN 0-9603138-0-X.

US 2826760, Ernest G. Rice, "Combination Stockings and Panty", issued March 18, 1958

Tights, Inc. v. Acme-McCrary Corporation, 541 F.2d 1047 (4th Cir. 1976).

Christensen, C. Roland (1982). Business Policy: Text and Cases. R.D. Irwin. p. 161. ISBN 0-256-02626-2.

Petrecca, Laura (January 1, 2007). "Hope for sagging pantyhose sales?". USA Today. Archived from the original on November 2, 2012. Pantyhose can feel like a tourniquet, and once a pair gets a snag, it usually has to be tossed. Going without discomfort costing from a few dollars to more than $40 a pair was a trend many women were happy to embrace.

Wellington, Elizabeth (July 15, 2008). "Pantyhose, once a fashion must, is on its last legs". The Seattle Times. Archived from the original on October 18, 2012. Retrieved November 11, 2012.

"Women's Hosiery — US — September 2002 - Introduction". Oxygen.mintel.com. 2002. Archived from the original on November 1, 2013. Retrieved June 6, 2010.

"A History of Hosiery | Wolford". www.wolfordshop.net. Retrieved 2022-02-25.

"Kent County Department of Public Works". Retrieved 2019-06-01.

"Recycling Club". Swedish Stockings. Retrieved 2019-06-01.

"Twitter". mobile.twitter.com. Retrieved 2019-06-01.

"Hooters Girls Donate Pantyhose to Clean Up the Gulf Oil Spill". 14 June 2010. Retrieved 2019-06-01.

Armytage, Marcus (October 31, 2011). "Diary: Warwick racecourse stage remembrance day for gentleman George Mernagh". The Daily Telegraph. London. Archived from the original on January 1, 2012. Retrieved October 31, 2013. It is one of the curiosities of racing that, to a man, jockeys go out to ride wearing that most feminine of undergarments; ladies nylon tights.

"Box Jellyfish, Box Jellyfish Pictures, Box Jellyfish Facts - National Geographic". National Geographic. Washington, D.C. 10 September 2010. Retrieved 2016-03-19.

"Jellyfish — Bay Field Guide — Chesapeake Bay Program". Chesapeakebay.net. n.d. Archived from the original on August 14, 2013. Retrieved June 6, 2010.

"Jellyfish". Reefed.edu.au. n.d. Archived from the original on May 14, 2013. Retrieved June 6, 2010.

Helliker, Kevin (February 19, 2002). "Kingsize, Not Queen: Some Men Have Taken To Wearing Pantyhose". The Wall Street Journal. Archived from the original on April 29, 2016.

24. "Tights Frame of Mind - A Pantyhose Podcast - YouTube". www.youtube.com. Retrieved 27 July 2023.

External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Pantyhose.

• How It's Made: Pantyhose YouTube video
• Hosiery Glossary - Specialistic glossary in English

v t e Hosiery

v t e Lingerie

Categories:

• 1950s fashion
• 20th-century fashion
• 21st-century fashion
• Fetish clothing
• Hosiery
• Lingerie
• Socks
• Women's clothing

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pantyhose

 

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Actor Don Grady sporting a regular haircut.

A regular haircut, in Western fashion, is a men's and boys' hairstyle that has hair long enough to comb on top, a defined or deconstructed side part, and a short, semi-short, medium, long, or extra long back and sides.^{[1]: 129–131 [2]: 98–101} The style is also known by other names including taper cut, regular taper cut, side-part and standard haircut; as well as short back and sides, business-man cut and professional cut, subject to varying national, regional, and local interpretations of the specific taper for the back and sides.^{[3]: 188 [1]: 122 [4][2]: 97 [5][6][7]}

Origins

American general John Ellis Wool with regular haircut, 1825

The short back and sides dates back to the Roman empire, as the regulation haircut for legionaries. Besides preventing the spread of lice, short hair and a clean shaven face prevented the enemy from grabbing a soldier by the beard. By the first century AD, Roman hairstyles were imitated by non-Roman subjects who admired the civilisation that Rome brought. Examples include the Gallo-Romans and Romanized Jews like Saint Paul seeking to distinguish themselves from traditionalists for whom hair cutting was forbidden.

The regular haircut, worn with a long beard, made a comeback during the Renaissance due to European men's newfound fascination with rediscovered classical Greco-Roman artefacts. It was revived for a second time during the Regency era of c.1810-1830 as dandies abandoned the impractical and expensive powdered wigs in response to William Pitt the Younger's hair powder tax.

During the Gay Nineties, the regular haircut gradually replaced the longer hair and muttonchop sideburns fashionable since the 1840s until, by 1910, it had become the norm for professional men. An extreme version known as the undercut was regulation for British and German soldiers during World War I and World War II.^[8] During the post-World War II period, the business-man haircut, in the form of a combover, became the standard dress code for men's hair in white-collar workplace settings throughout the Western world until the late 1960s and early 1970s. In 2010s fashion, the short back and sides continued to be worn by many professional men, while the related undercut^[9] was appropriated by the hipster subculture.^[10]

Elements

The essential elements of a regular haircut are edging, siding and topping:^{[1]: 118 [2]: 61–62}

• Edging refers to the design of the lower edge of hair growth from the sideburns around the ears and across the nape of the neck.^{[1]: 118 [2]: 62–63}
• Siding refers to the design of the hair on the back and sides between the edge and the top.^{[1]: 118 [2]: 68} Edging and siding, together or separately, commonly referred to as tapering, create a taper (see crew cut).^[2]: 68
• Topping refers to the design of the hair at the front and over the crown.^{[1]: 118 [2]: 70}

Edging comes first, followed by siding and topping.^{[1]: 118 [2]: 61} Edging is typically done with clippers; siding, shears over comb; topping, shears over finger.^{[2]: 62–63 [1]: 118–120} There are other methods that can be used including all clipper cuts, all shears cuts and all razor cuts. Barbers distinguish between a two line haircut and a one line haircut.^{[1]: 133–134 [2]: 97} Two line haircuts are standard taper cuts. The hair is outlined around the ears and then straight down the sides of the neck.^{[1]: 113–115 [2]: 97}The edge of hair growth at the nape of the neck is tapered to the skin with a fine(zero) clipper blade.^{[1]: 103 [2]: 110–111} A one line haircut, often referred to as a block cut, has the edge of hair growth at the nape outline shaved, creating an immediate transition between hair and skin and connecting the outline from the right sideburn to the outline from the left sideburn across the nape.^{[1]: 115 [2]: 97} The outline at the edge of the nape can be in a squared off or rounded pattern. A squared off nape can have squared or rounded corners.^{[1]: 115 [2]: 97 [11]: 90} Rotary, taper and edger clippers can be used when edging or siding a haircut. Guards and/or blades can be attached that vary the cutting length.^[1]: 54

Tapers

A tapered back and sides generally contours to the head shape; the hair progressively graduates in length from longer hair at the upper portions of the head to shorter hair at the lower edge of hair growth on the back and sides.^[3]: 259 There are a variety of tapers possible from short to extra long.^{[1]: 129–131 [2]: 98–101} Medium and longer tapers can be referred to as trims; however, the word trim is commonly used to request that the hair is trimmed back to the last haircut regardless of the style of taper.^{[1]: 131 [2]: 96} The sideburns and the shape and height of the neck edge are important design elements that can affect the appearance of the face, neck, chin, ears, profile and overall style.

In most instances, a shorter neck or chin suits a somewhat higher neck edge; a longer neck or chin suits a somewhat lower neck edge. An extra wide neck suits a somewhat narrower neck edge while a thinner neck or protruding ears suit a wider neck edge.^{[2]: 132–137} When slightly longer sideburns are worn than are appropriate for a style, it can shorten the appearance of the face; when slightly shorter sideburns are worn than are appropriate, it can lengthen the appearance of the face; therefore, the appearance of a face that is shorter or longer than average, in particular when due to the length of the chin or lower face, can be normalized by altering the length of the sideburns.^{[1]: 128, 131 [2]: 89–90, 135–136}

Short

Main article: Crew cut

Half vs full crown

Short taper cut

Other names for this style of taper include full crown, tight cut, and fade.^{[12][13]: 50 [14]: 40–43 [11]: 41–45, 100 [3]: 282 [15]: 133} The hair on the sides and back is cut with a coarse clipper blade from the lower edge of hair growth to or nearly full up to the crown. The clipper is gradually arced out of the hair at the hat band to achieve a taper. A fine clipper is used from the sideburn to about an inch above the ear. Clipper lines are blended out so there is a seamless transition between lengths.^{[11]: 100–103 [15]: 129 [2]: 98}

Sideburns, which may not be visible at the time of the haircut depending on the color, thickness and density of the hair, skin tone and fine clipper blade used, are maintained short between haircuts. Short sideburns extend to the area where the ear cartilage attaches to the skull or slightly lower if ear shape requires to allow a sideburn to be defined.^{[1]: 128, 129 [2]: 89–90, 135–136} Can be worn with an ivy league, high and tight, flat top crew cut, butch and other styles; and often the choice with these styles during the summer.^{[1]: 129, 132, 133, 135, 142, 143 [2]: 108, 110, 113 [11]: 94}

A short crew cut is sometimes referred to as a butch, though with the exception of variant forms, a butch differs from a crew cut in that the top hair is cut a uniform short length.^[16] A long crew cut can be referred to in the US as an ivy league crew cut or ivy league.^[17][18] A crew cut where the hair on the top of the head is graduated in length from the front hairline to a chosen point on the mid to back part of the crown as a flat plane, of level, upward sloping or downward sloping inclination is known as a flat top crew cut or flattop.^[19][20] The crew cut, flat top crew cut, butch cut and Ivy League haircut can be referred to as types of buzz cuts.^[21][22] These haircuts have become popular military-inspired styles for men who want a short and low-maintenance look.^{[23][24][25][26]}

Semi-short

Semi-short

Also known as a half crown.^{[13]: 51 [14]: 41–45 [11]: 91} The hair on the sides and back is cut with a coarse clipper blade about halfway up to the crown; the clipper starts to gradually arc out of the hair at the top of the ears. A fine clipper blade is used at the sideburns and at the nape arcing out of the hair to create a blend at a point between the bottom and the top of the ears.^{[11]: 91–99  [1]: 130 [2]: 99}

Sideburns are generally worn short as the hair grows out or slightly longer than short but not quite medium.^{[1]: 128, 130 [2]: 89–90, 135–136} Blending at the upper sides can utilize clipper over comb or shears over comb techniques.^{[1]: 118, 119} While a semi-short taper can be worn with a regular haircut, it is very common with an ivy league, crew cut, flat top crew cut, butch, brush cut, or burr.^{[1]: 130, 132, 133, 142–143 [2]: 108, 110, 113}

Medium

Medium taper cut

A coarse clipper blade may be used on the sideburns, with the clipper immediately arcing out of the hair, completing the taper at the top of the ears. In the nape area, the coarse clipper starts to arc out at the middle of the ears with the taper completed at the top of the ears. A fine clipper blade tapers the lower edge of the hairline at the nape to the skin.^{[1]: 130 [2]: 99} The lower edge of hair growth at the nape can alternatively be blocked off in a squared or rounded pattern.^[1]: 115

Medium sideburns are appropriate with face shapes that are neither long or short. Medium sideburns extend to the top of the ear orifice.^{[1]: 128 [2]: 89–90, 135–136} The hair on the middle part of the back and sides can be shortened, thinned and blended using a variety of methods including shears over comb, clipper over comb, thinning shears method, slithering with standard barber's shears, shear point tapering or razor methods.^{[1]: 118–119, 121 [2]: 68–69} A common style with a regular haircut, medium pompadour or ivy league and also worn with a crew cut or flattop.^{[1]: 130, 132–133, 144 [2]: 108, 110}

Long

Long taper cut

A coarse clipper blade is used in the nape area, arcing out of the hair at the bottom of the ears with the taper completed at mid ear. A fine clipper blade is used to taper the edge at the hairline.^{[1]: 131 [2]: 99} A long taper is frequently blocked at the nape in a squared or rounded pattern instead of being tapered to the skin.^[1]: 115 Long sideburns are appropriate for average face shapes. Long sideburns extend to the middle of the ear opening. ^{[1]: 128, 131}

The middle section of the back and sides is most often cut shears over comb or shears over fingers; can also be cut with a razor. Thinning, layering and blending of the middle section of the back and sides can be accomplished with thinning shears, slithering or razor techniques.^{[1]: 118–119, 121 [2]: 68–69} Most frequently worn with a regular haircut or a long pompadour.^{[1]: 131, 145–146 [2]: 99–101}

Extra long

Extra long taper cut

A coarse clipper blade is used in the nape, immediately arcing out of the hair, with the taper completed below the bottom of the ears. A fine clipper blade may be used to taper the lower edge of the hairline to the skin.^{[2]: 99–100} An extra long taper is frequently blocked at the nape in a squared or rounded pattern; a deconstructed arch around the ears and a deconstructed or shaggy block at the nape are also quite common.^{[2]: 99–101}

Extra long sideburns are appropriate; extra long sideburns extend to the top of the ear lobe.^{[2]: 89–90, 135–136} The middle section of the back and sides is most often cut shears over comb or shears over fingers; can also be cut with a razor. Thinning, layering and blending of the middle section of the back and sides can be accomplished with thinning shears, slithering or razor techniques.^{[1]: 118–119, 121 [2]: 68–69} Apart from being worn with a regular haircut, also worn with an extra long pompadour.^{[2]: 99, 101}

Topping

Topping includes shortening, layering, and thinning the hair on the crown and frontal areas to attain the desired length, volume, degree of contour, graduation, and layering. The technique most widely used to shorten, layer and graduate the hair is the shears over finger method, also known as finger work.^{[2]: 70 [1]: 119} Finger work involves initially lifting the hair to be cut with the comb, then grasping the lifted hair between the index and middle finger of the opposite hand while transferring the comb to that hand and cutting it with the shears held in the hand that initially held the comb. The comb is then transferred back to the hand that holds the shears and the process is repeated in swaths that go from front to back, outer to inner areas of the right and left sides of the top.^{[2]: 70–71 [1]: 111–112}

The angle at which the hair is held away from the scalp is critical as it affects how the cut hair will graduate and layer. Depending on the area of the scalp and the desired appearance of the cut hair, the angle will range from around 45 to 135 degrees.^{[2]: 73–75} Shears over comb techniques include the up and over method and the shear lifting method. In both methods, the hair to be cut is held up by the comb and cut with shears.^{[2]: 69, 72 [1]: 119, 121}

The up and over method is a continuous process where the strips of cut hair run from the front hairline back or from the side hairline upwards.^{[2]: 72 [1]: 119} In the shear lifting method, the process is not continuous but carried out sectionally from left to right across the top of the head proceeding from the crown to the front. For example, there may be fifteen separate sections, three across the top of the head from side to side and five from the crown forward.^{[1]: 121 [2]: 72} Cutting proceeds from crown left to crown right and so on to front left to front right. As with the shears over finger method, the angle of the hair to the scalp as it is cut is critical to the layered and graduated appearance of the cut hair.^{[2]: 73, 75}

Depending on the thickness of the hair and the desired volume, topping may include thinning which can be accomplished by a variety of methods including thinning shears method, slithering with regular barber shears or the push back method with regular shears or thinning shears. The hair to be thinned may be held with the fingers or comb.^{[2]: 84–85 [1]: 110} Whorls, cowlicks, and irregularities of the scalp can be addressed by shear point tapering techniques. Only a few hairs are cut in the problem areas using just the tips of the shears, over comb.^[1]: 137 Topping as well as siding may also be achieved with razor cutting techniques.^{[2]: 138–149}

Guards and blades

Three types of clippers can be utilized to achieve a regular haircut: taper clippers, rotary clippers and outliner/edger clippers.^[1]: 54 Taper clippers are powered by a linear or pivot motor. The blades are not readily interchangeable. The taper lever allows adjustment of the cutting length within a certain range, usually from #000 blade length, 1⁄50 inch (0.51 mm) on the fine side to #1 length, 3⁄32 inch (2.4 mm) on the coarse side. For longer lengths, clipper guards are attached. The guard will cut at the numbered guard length when the taper lever is in the shortest cutting position. Clipper guards are also known as clipper guide combs.^[27][28] Fade clippers are identical to taper clippers with the exception of the range of cutting lengths which is entirely within the fine blade range. Most fade clippers cut between #00000 blade length, 1⁄125 inch (0.20 mm) and #000 blade length, 1⁄50 inch (0.51 mm). As with regular taper clippers, clipper guards can be attached for longer cutting lengths.^[29]

Rotary clippers have blades that readily snap on and off. Blades are available that leave from 1⁄250 inch (0.10 mm) to 3⁄4 inch (19 mm) of hair on the scalp when the clipper is guided over the head with the teeth of the clipper blade in contact with the scalp. Blades are numbered differently than guards. Rotary clippers are designed to accept a certain standard blade type, so that blades from a variety of manufacturers designed to the specific standard may be utilized on a clipper designed to that standard, regardless of manufacturer.^{[30][1]: 55} Outliner/edger clippers have a very fine cutting blade and no taper lever and are used to outline a defined arch around the ear and for block cuts, the edge at the nape of the neck.^{[31][32][33][34][35][1]: 54}

Guards

Human scalp hair grows on average about one eighth inch per week or one half inch per month.^[36] Most clipper guards are numbered in eighths of an inch. The number of the guard denotes the number of weeks of hair growth left on the scalp when a clipper with a certain numbered guard is guided over the head with the guard in contact with the scalp. A #1 guard leaves 1⁄8 inch (3.2 mm), one week's growth of hair, on the scalp; a #2 guard leaves 2⁄8 inch (6.4 mm), two weeks' hair growth, on the scalp; a #3 guard leaves 3⁄8 inch (9.5 mm), three weeks' hair growth on the scalp; and so on.^[37]

Blades

Cutting blade type	Blade	Hair remaining
		Inches	Millimetres	Growth
Fine cutting blades (also referred to as zero blades)
	#000000	1⁄250	0.10	5 hours
	#00000	1⁄125	0.20	10 hours
	#0000	1⁄100	0.25	15 hours
	#0000A	1⁄75	0.34	20 hours
	#000	1⁄50	0.51	1 day
	#00	1⁄30	0.85	1.5 days
	#0	1⁄25	1.0	2 days
	#0A	3⁄64	1.2	2.5 days
Medium coarse cutting blades (#1, #1A, #1.5)
	#1	3⁄32	2.4	5 days
	#1A	1⁄8	3.2	1 week
	#1.5	5⁄32	4.0	9 days
Full coarse cutting blades (#2, #3.5 and #3.75)
	#2	1⁄4	6.4	2 weeks
	#3.5	3⁄8	9.5	3 weeks
	#3.75	1⁄2	13	4 weeks
Longer cutting blades
	5/8 H/T	5⁄8	16	5 weeks
	3/4 H/T	3⁄4	19	6 weeks

^{[30][1]: 54}

Gallery

• 

  Long

• 

  Medium

• 

  Medium-long

• 

  Extra long, long, long (left to right)

• 

  Semi-short

See also

• List of hairstyles
• Brush cut
• Buzz cut
• Comb
• Crew cut
• Curtained hair
• Ducktail
• Flattop
• Hair clipper
• High and tight
• Ivy League
• Mullet
• Pompadour (hairstyle)
• Quiff
• Razor

References

1. 
   

Thorpe 1967.

Trusty 1971.

Scali-Snipes 1999.

Stewart & Ford 2003, p. 188.

"Steven Gerrard's Liverpool career in stickers". BBC Sport.

"short back and sides". Archived from the original on July 5, 2015.

"short back and sides".

"A Haircut Returns From the 1930s (Published 2011)". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 2023-04-18.

Hipster or Nazi?

Every dude is getting this haircut

Moler 1928.

Booker 1892, p. 24.

Modern Barber College 1946.

Moler 1905.

Thorpe 1958.

Trusty 1971, p. 113.

Trusty 1971, p. 97.

Trusty 1971, p. 102.

Thorpe 1967, p. 133-134.

Trusty 1971, pp. 110–111.

George Thomas Simon (1974), Glen Miller and His Orchestra, p. 343, ISBN 0306801299

Victoria Sherrow (2006), Encyclopedia of hair, p. 194, ISBN 9780313331459

"35 Best Military Haircuts". Men's Hairstyles Today. March 23, 2023. Retrieved April 4, 2023.

"The Men 300,000 New Sailors Will Make The Navy Their Career". Life. Vol. 9, no. 18. 28 October 1940.

"Keratin Hair Extensions". Retrieved 27 July 2023.

Gordon L. Rottman (2007), Fubar: Soldier Slang of World War II, p. 52, ISBN 9781846031755

Andis (2003), Model ML (PDF), archived from the original (PDF) on 2013-05-01

Oster (2013), Model 76023-510

Andis (2004), Form 01604 (PDF), archived from the original (PDF) on 2014-01-11

Oster (2013), Classic 76 Clipper Blades

Andis (2003), Form 04942 (PDF)

Andis (2003), Form 04941 (PDF)

Andis (2007), Form 15341 (PDF)

Oster (2013), Model 76059-010

Oster (2013), Model 76059-030

Victoria Sherrow (2006), Encyclopedia of hair, ISBN 9780313331459

37. John Oster (2013), Universal Comb Attachments

Bibliography

• Booker, Benjamin (1892). The Secret of Barbering. Unattributed Publisher.
• Modern Barber College (1946). Modern Textbook of Barbering. Modern Barber College.
• Moler, A.B. (1905). The Barbers', Hairdressers' and Manicurers' Manual. Unattributed Publisher.
• Moler, A.B. (1928). Standardized Barbers' Manual. Unnattributed Publisher.
• Scali-Snipes, Mara (1999). Milady's Standard Textbook of Professional Barber Styling. Milady Publishing Corporation.
• Stewart, Helen; Ford, Gilly (2003). Hairdressing with Barbering. Heinemann Educational Publishers.
• Thorpe, S.C. (1958). Practice and Science of Standard Barbering. Milady Publishing Corporation.
• Thorpe, S.C. (1967). Practice and Science of Standard Barbering. Milady Publishing Corporation.
• Trusty, L. Sherman (1971). The Art and Science of Barbering. Wolfer Printing Co.

External links

Wikibooks has a book on the topic of: Body_Hair_Removal/Technique

• The dictionary definition of regular haircut at Wiktionary

v t e Human hair
Classification	by type Lanugo Body Terminal Vellus Afro-textured hair (kinky hair) by location Body Ear Nose Eyebrow unibrow Eyelash Underarm Chest Abdominal Pubic Leg
Head hairstyles (list)	Afro Afro puffs Asymmetric cut Bald Bangs Beehive Big hair Blowout Bob cut Bouffant Bowl cut Braid Brush, butch, burr cut Bun (odango) Bunches Businessman cut Buzz cut Caesar cut Chignon Chonmage Comb over Conk Cornrows Crew cut Crochet braids Croydon facelift Curly hair Curtained hair Czupryna Devilock Dido flip Digital perm Dreadlocks Ducktail Eton crop Extensions Fauxhawk Feathered hair Finger wave Flattop Fontange French braid French twist Fringe Frosted tips Hair crimping Hair twists High and tight Hime cut Historical Christian hairstyles Hi-top fade Induction cut Ivy League, Harvard, Princeton cut Japanese women Jewfro Jheri curl Kiss curl Layered hair Liberty spikes Long hair Lob cut Lovelock Marcelling Mod cut Mohawk Mullet 1950s 1980s Pageboy Part Payot Pigtail Pixie cut Pompadour Ponytail Punch perm Professional cut Queue Quiff Rattail Razor cut Regular haircut Ringlets Shag Shape-Up Shikha Shimada Short back and sides Short brush cut Short hair Spiky hair Straight hair Standard haircut Step cut Surfer hair Taper cut Temple fade Tonsure Updo Undercut Victory rolls Waves Widow's peak Wings
Facial hair (list)	Beard Chinstrap Goatee Ned Kelly Shenandoah Soul patch Van Dyke Moustache Fu Manchu handlebar horseshoe pencil toothbrush walrus Designer stubble Sideburns
Hair subtraction	cosmetic Removal waxing threading plucking chemical electric laser IPL Shaving head leg cream brush soap Razor electric safety straight disorders Alopecia areata totalis universalis Frictional alopecia Pattern hair loss Hypertrichosis Management Trichophilia Trichotillomania Pogonophobia
Haircare products	Brush Clay Clipper Comb Conditioner Dryer Gel Hairstyling products Hot comb Iron Mousse Pomade Relaxer Rollers Shampoo Spray Volumizer Wax
Haircare techniques	Backcombing Hair coloring Crimping Curly Girl Method Hair cutting Perm Shampoo and set Straightening
Health and medical	Hair follicle Hair growth Trichology
Related	Beard and haircut laws by country Bearded lady Barber (pole) Eponymous hairstyle Frizz Good hair Hairdresser list Hair fetishism

Categories:

• Hairstyles
• 1820s fashion
• 1890s fashion
• 1920s fashion
• 1950s fashion
• 1980s fashion
• 2010s fashion
• 20th-century fashion
• 21st-century fashion

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Regular_haircut

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

For the 1942 America film, see Sweater Girl (film).

Anne Gwynne, 1943

The term "sweater girl" was made popular in the 1940s and 1950s to describe Hollywood actresses like Lana Turner, Jayne Mansfield, and Jane Russell, who adopted the popular fashion of wearing tight, form-fitting sweaters that emphasized the woman's bustline.^[1][2] The sweater girl trend was not confined to Hollywood and was viewed with alarm by some. In 1949 a Pittsburgh police superintendent even singled out the sweater girl as a symptom of the moral decline of postwar youth:

"Women walk the streets, their curves accentuated by their dresses," Superintendent of Police Harvey J. Scott said. "But our real problem is with bobby soxers. They are the sweater girls—just kids showing off their curves and apparently liking it. What kind of mothers and wives are they going to be?"^[3]

Fashion influence

Patti Page, 1955.

New, soft fabrics like cashmere and angora were being used to make sweaters. The conical shape bra, sometimes called a bullet bra, raises and separates the breasts. In its original form, the look was often tied to the promotion of new bra technology.^{[citation needed]}

Interest in the bullet bra revived after Madonna wore a cone bra during her 1990 Blond Ambition World Tour.^[4] The bra was designed by Jean Paul Gaultier who was inspired by the vintage Perma-Lift bullet bra of the 1940s. By that time, the style was regarded as erotic and provocative. The bullet bra has also become popular with burlesque and rockabilly enthusiasts, both of which draw inspiration from the 1950s.

Popular culture

Lana Turner's appearance in the 1937 film They Won't Forget in a tight-fitting knit top is sometimes considered the first case of the "sweater girl", as Hollywood publicists sought for a catchy phrase to describe the impact she made on the screen. Movie magazines nicknamed her "The Sweater Girl," just as Ann Sheridan was "The Oomph Girl," Dorothy Lamour "The Sarong Girl," and Clara Bow "The It girl."

Sweater Girl is the name of a 1942 film written by Robert Blees and Beulah Marie Dix, directed by William Clemens and starring Eddie Bracken, June Preisser, Phillip Terry, and Betty Jane Rhodes.^[5]

From the 1944 Army–Navy Screen Magazine No. 20, a one-reel short that showed portions of a special Armed Forces Radio Network recording session, Bob Hope introduces "sweater girl" Judy Garland. Before she sings "Over the Rainbow", they perform a short comic sketch, Garland asking why men are so crazy about sweater girls. Hope says he does not know and wisecracks, "That's one mystery I'd like to unravel".^[6]

In September 1968 an obscure clerical worker named Francine Gottfried briefly attained international celebrity as "Wall Street's Sweater Girl" as large crowds of gawking men and newspaper reporters awaited her arrival at the Wall Street subway stop each morning and mobbed her on her way to work.^[7]

See also

• Pin-up model

References

1. 
   

Herbst, Philip (2001). Wimmin, wimps & wallflowers: an encyclopaedic dictionary of gender and sexual orientation bias in the United States. Intercultural Press. p. 122. ISBN 978-1-877864-80-3.

Ostler, Rosemarie (2005). Dewdroppers, waldos, and slackers: a decade-by-decade guide to the vanishing vocabulary of the twentieth century. Oxford University Press US. p. 85. ISBN 978-0-19-518254-5.

"Plunging neckline, falsies get blame for rise in sex crime," Brooklyn Eagle, December 16, 1949. Retrieved July 9, 2014.

"Madonna on the Blond Ambition World Tour (photo)".

"Sweater Girl (1942)" – via IMDb.

"Army-Navy Screen Magazine #20". February 15, 1943 – via Internet Archive.

7. "10,000 Wait in Vain for Reappearance of Wall Street's Sweater Girl". New York Times. September 21, 1968.

Categories:

• 1950s fashion
• Sweaters
• Stereotypes of women
• 1990s fashion

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sweater_girl

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it or discuss these issues on the talk page. (Learn how and when to remove these template messages) This article possibly contains original research. (March 2017) This article needs additional citations for verification. (March 2017)

Classic Mary Jane or bar shoes by Start-rite (known as Sonnet in the United States).

Mary Jane (also known as bar shoes or doll shoes) is an American term (formerly a registered trademark) for a closed, low-cut shoe with one or more straps across the instep.

Classic Mary Janes for children are typically made of black leather or patent leather, have one thin strap fastened with a buckle or button, a broad and rounded toe box, low heels, and thin outsoles. Among girls, Mary Janes are commonly worn with tights, pantyhose, socks, or without them (on bare feet), and a dress or a skirt and blouse. Among boys (less common), Mary Janes are traditionally worn with socks (or without them as well), short trousers and a shirt.

History

Children's shoes secured by a strap over the instep and fastened with a buckle or button appeared in the early 20th century. Originally worn by both sexes, they began to be perceived as being mostly for girls during the 1930s in North America and the 1940s in Europe.^[1] They were also popular with women in the 1920s.^[2]

Today, Mary Janes for children, particularly the more classic styles, are often considered semi-formal or formal shoes, appropriate for school (many schools worldwide require that girls wear them with their uniform), religious ceremonies, weddings, visits, and birthday parties for example. More modern styles are also worn in casual settings, however: playgrounds, shopping centres, sports (Mary Jane sneakers), etc. Although less popular than in the past, Mary Janes remain a timeless classic of children's fashion and, for many people, a symbol of girlhood.

Moreover, Mary Janes are a preferred accessory of many traditional or folk costumes, such as those of the flamenco female dancer and of the typical woman in Mao's China and the Kims' North Korea.^{[citation needed]}

Etymology

Mary Jane was a character created by Richard Felton Outcault, "Father of the Sunday Comic Strip", for his comic strip Buster Brown, which was first published in 1902. She was the sister of the title character Buster Brown and was drawn from real life, as she was also Outcault's daughter of the same name. In Outcault's and his daughter's words, she was the only character drawn from life in the Buster Brown strip although "Mrs. Brown" resembled Outcault's wife.^[3]

In 1904, Outcault traveled to the St. Louis World's Fair and sold licenses to up to 200 companies to use the Buster Brown characters to advertise their products. Among them was the Brown Shoe Company, which later hired actors to tour the country, performing as the Buster Brown characters in theaters and stores. This strategy helped the Brown Shoe Company become the most prominently associated brand with the Buster Brown characters. The style of shoe both Buster Brown and Mary Jane wore came to be known by her name, Mary Jane.^[4][5]

Adult styles

While the classic Mary Jane still retains its wide popularity and appeal, platform style Mary Janes have also evolved since the late 1990s, with 1-cm to 3-cm (½-in to 1-in) outsoles and 8-cm to 13-cm (3-in to 5-in) "chunky" heels, often with exaggerated grommets or buckles. The 1920s-style Mary Janes were a famous part of flappers' ensembles, thus reinforcing the childlike style the flappers had. These styles were especially popular in the United States in the late 1990s and early 2000s, within punk rock, psychobilly and goth subcultures. Many times the wearers would accent the look with knee-high knit socks in dark-colored stripes or patterns and/or some form of hosiery (stockings/pantyhose), and often complete the look with a plaid, pleated schoolgirl-style skirt.

During the early 2000s, block-heeled Mary Jane shoes were popular in the United Kingdom and were fastened by a rectangular chrome buckle and were made under various brand names such as No Doubt, Koi Couture etc.^{[citation needed]}

Mary Janes are a popular part of kinderwhore and Lolita fashion. A pump with a strap across the instep may be referred to as a "Mary Jane pump", although it does not have the low heels or wide toe of the original Mary Jane (and a pump is generally strapless by definition).

Gallery

• 

  Modern chunky-heeled Mary Jane shoes

• 

  The family of Prince Oskar of Prussia in 1925: the three boys (aged 10, 8, and 3) are wearing Mary Janes.

• 

  Orthopedic Mary Janes

• 

  Modern Mary Jane school shoes worn with socks. Usually worn by primary school-aged girls, even in the 21st century.

See also

•  Fashion portal
• T-bar sandal—a very similar style

References

1. 
   

"Historical Boys' Clothing: Strap Shoes". Histclo.com. Retrieved 2012-06-21.

"Brighton University: Screen Archive Glossary". Brighton.ac.uk. Retrieved 2012-06-21.

"MISS OUTCAULT WEDS GEN. PERSHING'S NEPHEW; Cartoonist's Daughter, Original Mary Jane of Buster Brown, Marries Capt. F.E. Pershing". The New York Times. 20 March 1921. Retrieved 11 July 2020.

Conway, Susannah (16 August 1998). "Fashion: The history of... The Mary Jane shoe: Called to the bar". The Independent. Retrieved 11 July 2020.

5. "Buster Brown Shoes and Mary Janes". America Comes Alive. 20 June 2016. Retrieved 11 July 2020.

v t e Footwear

Categories:

• 1940s fashion
• 1950s fashion
• 1960s fashion
• 2000s fashion
• Shoes
• 1902 in comics
• Fictional costumes

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mary_Jane_(shoe)

Women's Home Industries

Industry	Crafts, including knitting and tapestry
Founded	1947
Headquarters	London , England
Key people	Stella Isaacs, Marchioness of Reading; Beatrice Bellini

Women's Home Industries was a company founded in 1947 in London to earn export revenue for the UK in the post-war period by harnessing women's craft skills, such as knitting and needlework.

Originally seen as part of the effort to rebuild the economy – and a way to give women practical work they could do from home – between the 1950s and 1970s its reputation as a retailer and supplier of hand-made knits and traditional crafts grew, with exports to match. It appeared in media such as The Times and Vogue, while designer-makers such as Beatrice Bellini became known names in their own right. Kaffe Fassett was among those who supplied crafts for sale in its shops and he also collaborated on clothing with Bellini. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Women%27s_Home_Industries

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

This article includes a list of general references, but it lacks sufficient corresponding inline citations. Please help to improve this article by introducing more precise citations. (November 2009) (Learn how and when to remove this template message)

A modern MA-1 bomber/flight jacket, with sage green exterior and safety orange lining

The MA-1 bomber jacket (also known as the MA-1 flight jacket) is an American military jacket which was developed in the 1950s.^[1] The MA-1 and its predecessor, the B-15 flight jacket, were originally developed and needed at that time because the characteristics of the new jet aircraft created new requirements for pilot performance, safety, and comfort.

History

Prior to the invention of jet aircraft, fleece-lined leather jackets were issued to flight personnel. However, the new jets could fly at much higher altitudes and in much colder temperatures than propeller aircraft. If the heavy, bulky leather jackets became wet from rain (when the pilot walked to his aircraft) or from perspiration, the water would freeze at high altitudes, making the jackets cold and uncomfortable. Also, the new jets were more streamlined in design. Cockpits were cramped and filled with new equipment. Speedy, unimpeded ingress and egress from cockpits became even more critical for safety. Rather than bulky leather, a sleek, lightweight yet warm jacket was needed for the new jet technology.^{[citation needed]}

To meet these needs, a new type of flight jacket was developed from the existing B-15 jacket, which was initially produced in cotton, but later produced in the same pattern but in high quality nylon. The B-15 had a wool collar with pile carried over from the earlier B-10 that was found to interfere with straps in practice. Nylon had been discovered prior to World War II and used during the war for items such as parachutes, but was not used in flight clothing until after the war.

The first MA-1 jackets were issued to United States Air Force and Navy pilots and flight crews. Small numbers were also issued to Army flight personnel. MA-1 jackets first appeared in Europe in very small quantities in the mid-to-late 1950s probably on the black market and at sales of government surplus.

In 1963, Alpha Industries won the contract to manufacture the MA-1.^[2] More MA-1 jackets appeared in Europe as Alpha and later Rothco^[1] began to export MA-1 jackets and other military clothing to European Air Forces and commercial customers.

Characteristics

The MA-1 was designed by the United States Air Force to serve as an intermediate weight flight jacket for use all year. This was accomplished by manufacturing the MA-1 from very high quality nylon fabrics and polyester interlinings. The lightweight nylon design allowed the pilot to wear the jacket open and be comfortable in warm weather. Upon entering the aircraft, the pilot could zip the jacket closed and be afforded ample protection against the cold conditions encountered in flight.

The MA-1 underwent design modifications during its long history of use but the classic highly functional design has remained basically the same. The original design was contained in United States government military specification "MIL-J-8279." Changes to the jacket were periodically made by the Air Force because of the introduction of new textiles, new sewing techniques or new aircraft cockpit design. The military specification was amended to reflect the changes which was signaled by adding a letter to the Mil. Spec. For example, MA-1 specifications progressed from Mil-J-8279 to J-8279A, then J-8279B, J-8279C, et cetera. The most important revision, Mil-J-8279F, was issued in November 1978. The final revision before being phased out by the United States military is "Mil-J-8279G" and "Mil-J-8279G AMENDMENT-1", introduced in March 1988 and October 1990 respectively. These two final revisions were designated for ground crew only as fire-resistant CWU-36/P and CWU-45/P were issued to aircrew.

The MA-1 was initially produced in midnight blue and sage green. Blue was the original color used by the military, but it was soon replaced by green. During the Korean War (1950–1953) mixing flight clothing from multiple time periods and colors was not unusual. Presumably, the green was eventually adopted because it blended more easily with the environment should the pilot need camouflage protection on the ground. During the Vietnam War, there were variant commercial copies of MA-1 in camouflage pattern which were purchased by American servicemen. Official versions with a safety orange interior were reversible: interior pockets had snaps and could function when flipped to the outside, the front zipper had a large fob allowing zipping from either side. Downed or lost airmen hoping for rescue could reverse the jacket and reveal the bright high-visibility anti-camouflage orange as a locating-aid for their searchers. While no longer issued by the United States military, the MA-1 remains popular among many United States-allied armed forces (e.g. Israel, Japan, South Korea, Philippines, Taiwan (ROC) and Thailand).

Civilian use

MA-1 jackets have become fashionable worldwide, especially in the United States, Japan and the United Kingdom. Many American clothing manufacturers, formerly military contractors now produce a variety of colors in addition to the traditional.

Because the MA-1 Jacket not only keeps the wearer warm, but is highly comfortable, the jacket is very popular in Europe and Australia during winter. The jacket is also worn in North America, where it is commonly known as a bomber jacket, especially in areas with cold weather. These jackets became popular in the late 1970s with punks, mods and skinheads. During the 1980s the jackets had extensive exposure in style magazines such as The Face and i-D, often reimagined by clothes designers of the time.

The MA-1 is also in use in several police forces and security agencies where cold weather is a part of everyday life. They were chosen over several other designs primarily for the sturdy construction and the heavy insulation needed in cold temperatures.

See also

• Aviation portal

• Blouson
• Letter jacket
• MA-2 bomber jacket
• Valley Apparel L.L.C., an earlier manufacturer

References

1. 
   

"Alpha Industries: Authentic Mens Jackets - MA-1, M-65 and N-3B". www.meanandgreen.com. Retrieved 2017-09-13.

2. "A Legacy of Innovation". Alpha Industries. 2018. Retrieved 30 September 2019. 1963 Awarded contracts for MA-1 and N-2B "split hood". Alpha Industries is awarded its first contracts for several outerwear styles, including the MA-1 jacket and N-2B "split hood" parka. These military jackets become iconic in the coming years.

• Cirker, Alan D. THE ALPHA STORY: 50 YEARS OF AN AMERICAN MILITARY CLOTHING COMPANY. Baker Hill Publishing, 2009. 131pp.
• Imai, Kesaharu. SUIT UP!: THE FLIGHT JACKET. World Photo Press (Japan), 1993. 367pp.
• Imai, Kesaharu. FLIGHT JACKET ALL CATALOG. World Photo Press (Japan), 1994. 223pp.
• Maguire, Jon & Conway, John. AMERICAN FLIGHT JACKETS. Schiffer, 1994. 277pp.
• Nelson, Derek & Parsons, Dave. HELL-BENT FOR LEATHER: THE SAGA OF THE A-2 AND G-1 FLIGHT JACKETS. Motorbooks, 1990. 160pp.
• Thompson, Leroy. UNIFORMS OF THE INDO-CHINA AND VIETNAM WARS. Blandford Press, 1984. 160pp.

Categories:

• 1950s fashion
• Jackets
• United States Air Force uniforms
• Skinhead
• Punk fashion
• Military equipment introduced in the 1950s

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MA-1_bomber_jacket

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Dorothy Levitt, early motoring 'scorcher' and advisor on what to wear

A car coat is an outer garment originally made to be worn by automobile drivers and passengers. First designed to provide maximum warmth and coverage, over time it became a much shorter garment. Today it describes a coat that typically ends at mid thigh. It is worn by both men and women.

While fur, leather and heavy wool were preferred in the early days, today the coat may be made in a wide variety of materials. In the period after World War II, it took on design elements of the jeep coat worn by servicemen and this is when the shorter length became common. As car ownership grew so did the popularity of the coat; by the 1960s it was described as "ubiquitous". The car coat remains popular today, both as a functional and a fashion garment.

'Automobilists' fashion plate of around 1910, showing early car coats

Early history of the car coat

Originally the car coat was more usually termed 'motoring dress'. It emerged in the early 1900s, when driving was considered an outdoor sport (most cars were open top) and required protective clothing.^[1] Clothing for men and women and for driver and passenger was relatively similar, comprising a long heavy coat. This was often in fur or lined with fur, although sometimes it was in heavy cloth. In summer, women would wear a duster coat, sometimes called a dust coat, to cover their garments, in a cloth such as linen or alpaca wool.^[1] This would be accessorised with gloves, goggles and a hat – women often wore elaborate hats and veils, while men would wear a cap. These accessories were worn year round.^[1]

A chauffeur, in around 1910. Similar heavy greatcoats in wool or leather were worn by male and female drivers

Dorothy Levitt priming a carburettor and wearing an early version of a motoring 'duster' coat

Motoring was still an activity for the elite, however the privations of driving in a vehicle that broke down frequently and provided no retreat from the elements, meant clothing had to be functional and warm. Sports motorist Dorothy Levitt – author of the 1909 handbook The Woman and the Car and dubbed 'the fastest woman on earth' for her 'scorching' (speeding) antics round tracks such as Brooklands – provided useful tips for women drivers on what to wear, along with guidance about the mechanical aspects of driving. On choosing the right coat, she said: "Under no circumstance wear lace or fluffy adjuncts to your toilet. There is nothing like a thick frieze, homespun or tweed coat lined with fur. Do not heed the cry, 'nothing like leather.' Leather coats do not wear gracefully."^[2]

1920s styles

In the 1920s, women continued to favour male motoring dress and this also crossed over into high fashion. A 1921 article in The Times about the latest Paris fashions described a red leather motoring coat fastened with metal buckles.^[3] Similar leather coats had been popular for chauffeurs and male motorists for several years. Fur was still popular, with a fashion correspondent noting that the Motor Show in Olympia was transforming shop windows around London. She recommended the latest craze for fur-lined coats in tweed, wool velour and cheviot. Musquash and nutria were also being chosen by women motorists, while in Knightsbridge, one new store was offering women's coats suitable for motoring made from men's suiting cloth.^[4]

Composer Zez Confrey wearing a fur motoring coat – fur would remain popular driving gear for men and women

Accessories also followed the unisex trend; The Times described the arrival of neat leather caps as a fashion accessory for women in 1923.^[5] This style of sporty hat was worn in the iconic Tamara de Lempicka self-portrait of 1929 in which she is driving a green Bugatti with leather cap and driving gloves – reputed to be based on an Hermès set that she had seen on the cover of the magazine Vu. As this portrait suggests, and Peter Thorold has noted, the car had become the ultimate symbol of modernity and emancipation, something that was reflected in the styling of clothes.^[6] Although no coat is visible in the de Lempicka portrait, by the late 1920s the latest motoring coats from France were worn long, made of tweed or flannel with narrow leather belts and collars in fur or flannel.^[7] Wide raglan sleeves were popular – allowing freedom of movement – and collars could be military in style with buttons up to the neck.^[8]

Reporting on fashions in the shops ahead of the 1931 Motor Show, The Times described not only furs, but a new trend for shorter coats – made of suede and silk lined with zips as fastening – for walking and motoring.^[9] As cars became more common and designs provided more protection from the elements, clothing reduced in weight and quantity. However the leather motoring coat remained popular as a distinct item of dress throughout the 1930s.^[1]

The jeep coat – as worn by servicemen during World War II – was the forerunner to the modern car coat

Postwar designs

The immediate precursor to the postwar (modern) car coat was based around the jeep coat, a design popular in wartime for the drivers of open-topped vehicles. This was generally of a shorter length, ending at mid thigh.^[1]

By the early 1960s, some car coats were being designed in nylon, a report from the British Nylon Spinners' Fair in London in 1961 described a new washable mock suede car coat with brushed fleece nylon lining as: "one of the good possibilities" of the technology.^[10] Real leathers remained popular – showerproof suede models with detachable collars and large leather buttons were being designed for women by 1964. These were also in the shorter length, ending at mid thigh.^[11] Another new motoring design was the roebuck suede (deerskin) jacket, designed at hip length for both women and men, and described as a real innovation because: "A suede upon which grease, alcohol, even motor oil has no effect is a find indeed."^[12]

Warmth was still considered a key component of the car coat, with water-repellent poplin models with padded and quilted linings being designed for women as "knock-about car coats". These came complete with detachable hoods and toggle fastenings.^[12] Fur was still being promoted for motorists, but as a prestige item to go with prestige cars. An advert from 1965 in The Times by the National Fur Company entitled "An ocelot in your Jaguar" said: "We consider that an important feature of a car coat is its length – about halfway between a jacket and a 3/4 coat. At this length, it's comfortable to wear when driving. It doesn't ride up. Or 'seat'. And there is no risk of undue wear on the seat or back."^[13]

The "ubiquitous" car coat

By the late 1960s, the car coat was an item of leisurewear, rather than simply a motoring accessory, and was being produced in a variety of fabrics, including sheepskin and the new manmade fur varieties. A fashion writer describing the uses of faux fur said: "Apart from coats they are made into all kinds of leisure wear, of which the now ubiquitous car coat is a conspicuous example. Derived from the more expensive but still popular sheepskin jacket, it is usually made from a cotton suedette or brushed nylon outer fabric lined with an acrylic pile".^[14]

Football commentator John Motson got his first car coat in 1972, subsequently having them tailored in Savile Row

While women continued to wear the car-coat length – among others – by the mid-1960s the car coat had become a staple item of the male wardrobe. Editor of The Tailor and Cutter magazine John Taylor, writing in 1966, said: "The riding mac was the equivalent in the nineteen twenties and thirties of the car coat of the nineteen fifties and sixties. If a riding mac was worn there was the suggestion that it had been bought for a specific purpose. The wearer probably owned a hack and therefore was not a member of the hoi polloi. For similar reasons today, however submerged in the psyches of their owners the reasons may lie, there are far more car coats in male wardrobes than there are cars in garages."^[15]

Although the car coat was by now a familiar item, it did not mean it couldn't be reinvented. Michael Carr, who had designed an ergonomic racing suit for his company's co-director Stirling Moss applied first design principles to add functionality. Made of waterproofed poplin, his design of 1968 featured a zip front and separate velcro quick fasten strip. Buttons were designed so they didn't catch on the car seat belt, gathered cuffs excluded draughts and pockets were designed to fall on the knee while seated in the car. There was also an interior deep pocket for roadmaps.^[16] During the 1970s, the car coat continued to be a wardrobe staple for men, while car coat became a description of cut and length in women's fashion (often looser and always shorter than a traditional coat).

Car coats in popular culture

In late 1960s U.K., "shearling" car coats were favored by early skinheads.^[17] From the 1980s on, the men's car coat started to symbolise a particular character or walk of life on British TV and in the press, especially when worn in sheepskin or camel hair. Sheepskin was the style favoured by Del Boy in Only Fools & Horses and by football managers. It was also worn by detectives in The Sweeney.^[18][19] Later, the Life on Mars detective series, in which the hero is transported back to the 1970s, would reprise the car coat by giving DCI Gene Hunt a scruffy version in camel wool.^[20] More celebrated still are the trademarked sheepskin car coats worn by BBC football commentator John Motson – he wore his first in 1972, acquired from a furrier he met at a party in Chelsea, and subsequently had them made on Savile Row.^[21] It had become such a shorthand description for British football pundits by the late 1990s that a Times feature about the warm-up for the 1998 World Cup began with the description: "Paul Sexton, our man in the sheepskin car coat, on the tournament for the World Cup".^[22]

Anna Sui shearling car coat at Fall 2010 New York Fashion Week

The character of James Bond, as portrayed by actor Timothy Dalton, wore a black leather car coat made by Kenzō Takada in key scenes of 1987's The Living Daylights movie, the 15th film of the popular British motion picture franchise.

Fantasy and science fiction author Michael Moorcock's Jerry Cornelius often wears car coats.

Fashion revivals

In the late 1990s the car coat attracted attention as a fashion curiosity when Liam Gallagher wore a sheepskin model to the Brit Awards; Craig David wore a similar design in 2001.^[23][24][25] The car coat length has remained popular since 2008 – with GQ citing the "Mad Men effect" as a contributor to the revival of more formal and retro styles.^[26]

In 2010–11, it was popular on the catwalks for both men's and women's coats.^[27][28] Some versions were in fur and shearling (sheepskin), as well as in camel colourways. In 2013, it was described as the best coat length of the season.^[29]

References

1. 
   

Cumming, Valerie; Cunnington, C.W.; Cunnington, P. (2010). The Dictionary of Fashion History. Oxford: Berg. p. 135. ISBN 9781847887382. Retrieved 10 November 2014.

Levitt, Dorothy (1909). The Woman and the Car. ISBN 978-0-238-78967-0.

"A Woman's View: Paris Fashions". The Times. No. 42799. 15 August 1921.

"Round the shops: motoring outfits". The Times. No. 43787. 20 October 1924.

"London fashions: some new millinery". The Times. No. 43486. 31 October 1923.

Thorold, Peter (2003). The Motoring Age: 1896-1939. Hatton Garden, London: Profile Books. ISBN 9781847651020. Retrieved 10 November 2014.

"Paris Fashions: Midsummer out of doors". The Times. No. 45528. 2 June 1930.

"Round the shops: clothes for election campaign". The Times. No. 45955. 16 October 1931.

"Trade improved by cold weather: Motor Show visitors". The Times. No. 46263. 13 October 1932.

"Here and There". The Times. No. 54998. 6 February 1961.

"Devoted to women". The Times. No. 56170. 16 November 1964.

"Coats in roebuck suede". The Times. No. 56485. 22 November 1965.

"About Fur: No.4. An ocelot in your Jaguar? (advert)". The Times. No. 56457. 20 October 1965.

Elvin, Rene (25 April 1966). "The new status symbol – deep pile fabrics". The Times. No. 56614.

Taylor, John (29 December 1966). "English weather puts us into top gear". The Times. No. 56825.

King-Deacon, Antony (23 February 1968). "Business Habits: sartorial science". The Times. No. 57183.

"Hard Mod to Skin". Museum of Youth Culture. Retrieved 30 January 2022.

"'Del Boy' sheepskin factory Nursey of Bungay shuts". BBC. 21 March 2014. Retrieved 13 November 2014.

Gerard, Jasper (14 December 2003). "It's a woman's life in The Sweeney". The Sunday Times. Archived from the original on November 12, 2014. Retrieved 11 November 2014.

"Gene Hunt's camel coat to make return in Ashes to Ashes". Daily Mirror. 22 April 2009. Retrieved 11 November 2014.

Lawson, James (28 June 2008). "John Motson: The Full Motty". The Guardian. Retrieved 11 November 2014.

Sexton, Paul (15 June 1998). "Soccer it to me baby". The Times. No. 66228.

Shilling, Jane (26 February 1997). "Pass the cocoa, Liam". The Times. No. 65823.

Onanuga, Tola (23 March 2009). "Is Liam Gallagher a fashion pioneer". The Guardian. Retrieved 12 November 2014.

"Sheep's clothing". The Times. No. 67317. 8 December 2001.

Durbin, Jonathan (28 October 2008). "This Just In: La Rosa vintage car coat". GQ. Retrieved 12 November 2014.

"Smart Buy - Gloverall Anniversary Car Coat". Esquire. 6 October 2011. Archived from the original on 13 November 2014. Retrieved 12 November 2014.

Alexander, Hilary (15 February 2010). "Diane Von Furstenberg autumn/winter 2010/11 collection". Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 12 November 2014.

29. Freeman, Hadley (10 June 2013). "What should I be looking for in a summer coat this year?". The Guardian. Retrieved 12 November 2014.

External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Automobile coats.

• Tamara de Lempicka self-portrait in green Bugatti
• Archive John Rawlings fashion images of women wearing car coats, from Petrolicious
• Vintage sheepskin car coats at The Weejun

v t e Historical clothing

v t e Clothing

Categories:

• History of clothing (Western fashion)
• History of the automobile
• 1900s fashion
• 1910s fashion
• 1920s fashion
• 1930s fashion
• 1950s fashion
• 1960s fashion
• 1970s fashion
• 2000s fashion
• 2010s fashion
• Coats (clothing)

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_coat

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

For other uses of the term Ivy League, see Ivy League (disambiguation).

Paul Newman wearing casual Ivy League outfit in 1954, comprising chino pants, polo shirt, and sportcoat.

Ivy League is a style of men's dress, popular during the late 1950s in the Northeastern United States, and said to have originated on college campuses, particularly those of the Ivy League. It was the predecessor to the preppy style of dress.^[1]

Origins

Main article: Subcultures of the 1950s

President John Fitzgerald Kennedy, a style icon for followers of the Ivy League look.

Ivy League dress is characterized by a clean cut but overall less formal style than that of previous (“Trad”) generations. The style originated among students at elite American universities and is mainly derived from the casual and sporting attire worn by the British and American upper classes during the 1920s for pursuits such as golf, polo, sailing, rugby football, hunting, and tennis. The sport coat, blazer, oxford shirt, and chino trouser, among others, all originated in the early 20th century as sportswear but found acceptance as everyday attire in Ivy League-style circles. Trendsetters such as the Prince of Wales combined the latest American fashions with traditional British country clothing such as brogue boots, Argyle socks and jumpers (sweaters), tweed cloth sportcoats, Irish walking hats and plus fours in houndstooth, herringbone, or the Prince of Wales check popularized by Edward VII.^{[citation needed]}

During the mid to late 1950s, many young college men adopted the Ivy League look due to its association with the upper classes at leisure.^[2] The clothing stores J. Press and Brooks Brothers represented perhaps the quintessential Ivy League dress manner, the former with two of its four locations found at Harvard and Yale universities (the Princeton branch closed in 1943).

The Ivy League style was epitomized by the "sack" suit. The sack suit jacket (and similarly styled blazers and sport coats) featured a "3-to-2" or "three roll two" front closure (3 buttons with the top button "rolled" on the back side of the lapel, effectively leaving only two usable buttons), no front darts, and a single "hooked" vent (or "slit") at the back. The cut of the jacket was boxier, less structured, and less form-fitting than traditional business suits. The trousers typically had a lower (but not low by modern standards) rise, were held up by a belt rather than suspenders, and were frequently not pleated. Brooks Brothers and J. Press were major purveyors of Ivy League suits. In 1957 and 1958, about 70% of all suits sold were in the "Ivy League" style.^[3][4][5]

Although it may be perceived as formal or dressy today, in its heyday Ivy League was actually a casual approach to more traditional ("Trad") styles. The sack suit (and sack sport coat) itself appeared more casual, at it was less structured, with natural shoulders and a roomier fit. Additionally, Ivy Style was largely characterized by casual style affectations. For example, Ivy leaguers would frequently wear button-down collar oxford cloth shirts (which were originally developed as sportswear for polo and tennis players) with suits and sport coats, rather than more formal dress shirts with starched collars and double cuffs. Likewise, they would wear penny loafers or brogues rather than oxford shoes. Other casual affectations might include wearing gray flannel or khaki chino pants with a sport jacket in situations where others might wear a suit, or wearing or knitted silk or animal print ties with business suits.

Typical hairstyles included the crew cut, Harvard clip, and regular haircut,^[6] and common clothing items included cardigan sweaters, sweater vests, Nantucket reds, khaki chino pants, knitted ties, white Oxford shirts,^[7] Tootal or Brooks Brothers ties, Ascot neckties, tartan, grey tweed cloth or flannel sportcoats,^[8] and seersucker blazers in the South.^[9]

Mainstream popularity and decline

Mod band the Small Faces in 1965, wearing Ivy League cut sportcoats made up in outrageous plaids that were the antithesis of the understated Ivy League style, as were their long Beatle haircuts.

From the late 1950s until the mid 1960s, Ivy League clothing was considered desirable mainstream apparel for American middle class adults. In Britain during the mid and late 60s, the Mod subculture combined the latest Italian fashions with the attire worn by the heroes in contemporary American films such as Steve McQueen, James Dean or Paul Newman.^[10] Particularly popular were the grey flannel, Tonic, or houndstooth suits, polo shirts, chino pants, Argyle socks, sweater vests, cardigan sweaters, basketweave loafers, Madras plaid, and narrow brimmed Irish walking hats and Trilbys.^[11]

The style remained fashionable in the United States until it was supplanted (at least, for young men) at the tail end of the decade by the wide lapels, flared slacks, and brighter colors of the Peacock Revolution, as well as the casual clothing of the hippie counterculture during the late 1960s and early 1970s.^[12]

Revival

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Today the line between Ivy and preppy style is somewhat blurred but preppy style tends to be more colorful, especially in spring and summer, and incorporates more casual chic attire. It was first popularized in the early 1980s as a return to Ivy League styles after a decade of more modern trends, but today, preppy differs from historic Ivy League. Preppy fashion is influenced by traditional collegiate trends, rather than reproducing them exactly, and various clothing items can be considered preppy based on how they are worn or accented. During the 1990s and 2000s, Polo Ralph Lauren, J. Crew, and Vineyard Vines were large marketers of preppy clothing, modernized to accommodate new trends inspired by indie pop and urban fashion. Controversially,^{[according to whom?]} in a recently revised form, a version of this style is sometimes promoted and marketed as "American Trad" or simply "Trad," although there are marked differences between the two styles. Trad is narrower in scope than the intermediate preppy style.^[13]

By the 2010s, many American preps opted to dress in a more classic, tailored style closer to the original Ivy League look.^[14] In the early to mid-2020s, it returned as the "Old Money Aesthetic."

Popular items include loafers, Sperry Top-Sider boat shoes, Aran sweaters, cardigans, Oxford shirts, Cricket pullovers, wingtips, stripy polo shirts, khaki or pastel colored Vineyard Vines, Nantucket Reds, white or bright pastel color socks, colored jeans, baseball jackets, khaki cargo shorts, and tapered chinos. Blazers, especially those made from seersucker, had made a comeback as informal or smart casual wear by the mid 2010s, and the traditional two button style was updated with throwback styling inspired by The Great Gatsby.^{[15] [16]}

In popular culture

During the 1950s, the wealthy and clean cut Squares, Rahs and Socs (Soc being short for social) with their Ivy League clothes were the rivals to the working class Greaser subculture.^[17] The conflict between the two groups features in Grease, The Outsiders,^[18] Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull, and Cry-Baby.^[19] In a scene in The Godfather, set in 1946, Michael Corleone is derided as an unlikely assassin because he is a "college boy" who wears an "Ivy League suit." The style was parodied in Clark Gesner's song The Ivy League Look from the 1957-58 Princeton Triangle Club musical "After A Fashion".^[20][21]

See also

• Take Ivy
• Jock
• Preppy
• Popular clique
• Subcultures of the 1950s

Notes

1. 
   

Fashion design

Gentlemans Gazette

"ACCENT ON YOUTH IN WASH 'N' WEAR; Survey Expects Ivy League Style to Lift '58 Sales in Summer Suits Decline Seen for Wool". The New York Times. New York. 1957-08-14. p. 34. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2013-05-03. The so-called Ivy League style in summer-weight wash-and-wear fabrics will be much more important in the boy's and young men's suit market next spring.... The three-button Ivy League suite style is expected to account for 66% of boys suits compared with 44% in the 1957. For students, the dominance of this popular model will rise from 69% to 75%, according to the survey.

JoAnne Olian (5 September 2002). Everyday fashions of the fifties as pictured in Sears catalogs. Dover Publications. ISBN 978-0-486-42219-0. The Ivy-league look was the hallmark of sportswear throughout the latter years of the decade. Every skirt, pair of shorts or slacks boasted a cloth tab and back buckle, while button-down collars, penny loafers and Bermuda shorts were favored by both sexes. The early fifties square-shouldered, double-breasted men's suit with draped trousers bowed to the Brooks Brothers "natural shoulder" single-breasted 'Ivy League' style worn off campus as well as on.

Sumathi, G. J (2002). Elements of fashion and apparel design. New Delhi: New Age International. p. 25. ISBN 9788122413717. Ivy League: A popular look for men in the fifties that originated on such campuses as Harvard, Priceton [sic] and Yale; a forerunner to the preppie look; a style characterized by button down collar shirts and pants with a small buckle in the back.

Boys Life 1959

Life Magazine 1959

Life Magazine 1954

Removing the Ivy League stigma

Newman and McQueen

Claudio De Rossi

Gentlemans Gazette

Pompeo, Joe (2009-09-08). "Trad Men". The New York Observer. New York, NY. Retrieved 2013-05-03.

Pompeo, Joe. "American Trad". Observer.com. Retrieved 2012-01-21.

"American fashion staples". Archived from the original on 2016-04-12. Retrieved 2016-03-31.

"2013 blazers". Archived from the original on 2016-04-12. Retrieved 2016-03-31.

Cool cars high art

Fantastic racism

Cry Baby

"Six Years Ago - The Ivy League Look". Ivy Style. July 25, 2015. Retrieved December 18, 2018.

21. Princeton Triangle Club: the original "Ivy League Look"

Further reading

• Articles of Interest, a podcast whose third season focuses on Ivy League

Categories:

• Fashion aesthetics
• 2000s fashion
• 1950s fashion

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ivy_League_(clothes)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

iSKO

Industry	manufacturing distributor
Founded	1983
Founder	Sani Konukoglu
Key people	Fatih Konukoglu(CEO) Abdulkadir Konukoglu(Chairman of the Board) Zekeriye Konukoglu(President)
Products	denim

ISKO is a textile manufacturer and distributor and the world's largest producer of denim, producing over 250 million meters of denim annually,^[1][2] which it distributes to more than 60 countries worldwide.

History

ISKO was founded in 1983 as a division of Sanko Textile Industries, a member of Sanko Group, a family-held, diversified, multinational company, with 12 divisions, including textiles, renewable energy, construction, packaging and financial activities.

Sanko Textile Industries was founded in 1904 by Sani Konukoğlu, who started the company with a single hand-loom. In 1943, his grandson, Sani Konukoğlu, inherited the business and expanded the textiles division, founding the current parent company, Sanko Group^[3]

Leadership

ISKO is a family-run business, led by sons of Sanko Group's founder Sani Konukoğlu: CEO, Fatih Konukoğlu, who graduated from Bolton University with a degree in Textile Engineering; Abdülkadir Konukoglu, honorary chairman of the Board of Sanko Group; and Zekeriye Konukoglu, President of Sanko Group.^[4]

Research

ISKO's Research & Development facility is Turkey's first government-certified textile research center and has divisions specializing in biology, chemistry and physics research as well as textile development. ISKO-owned Iskoteca, in San Benedetto del Tronto, Italy, is a research and development lab developing new treatments and finishes.^[5] In 2011 ISKO opened a second research center in Castelfranco Veneto.^[6]

Sustainability and organic textiles

ISKO has certification for its sustainable products, including the Oeko-tex Standard 100 certification, the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certification for products made with 100% organic cotton, the OEP (Organic Exchange Products) certification, and the ISO 9001 and 9002B certifications.^[7]

Trademarks and patents

ISKO holds 10 international patents and patent-pending technologies with more than 35 registered and trademarked brands^[8] including: Jeggings, a hybrid of denim and legging material,^[9] Turbotech,^[10] ISKO Future Face, Recall, a spinning technology that allows a much faster recovery than conventional fabrics,^[10] and ISKO Reform, a very stretchable denim that incorporates a hidden synthetic inside the cotton yarn which creates a spring-like construction.^[11]

Training and education

In 2013 ISKO-launched the I-SKOOL project, an annual denim industry training program and competition for designers and marketing professionals, culminating in an awards show, in collaboration with 14 international design schools, including Istituto Marangoni, ESMOD Munich, Istanbul Moda Academy, London College of Fashion, and Chelsea College of Arts.^[12][13]

ISKO participates in the biennial Copenhagen Summit, where it sponsors the Denim Challenge, which gives five emerging designers the opportunity to work at ISKO's research and development facility in Castelfranco Veneto.^[14]

Philanthropy

The Sani Konukoğlu Foundation, which was created by the Konukoğlu family in 1989, provides scholarships to more than 1,500 university students per year and supports Sani Konukoğlu Medical Center, Turkey's largest private hospital, and Sanko Private Schools.^{[citation needed]}

In 2013, ISKO's holding company, Sanko Group, established a university, The Sanko University, a research university that specializes in medical and health Sciences with a Faculties of Medicine, Health Sciences, and Dentistry, and Institutes of Health Sciences and of Science and Technology.^[15]

References

1. 
   

"Il colosso del denim Isko chiuderà il 2012 in crescita a doppia cifra". fashionmagazine.it.

Jennifer Rooney (24 February 2014). "Isko Steps Out As Premium Denim Ingredient Brand". Forbes.

"Sanko Holding A.S.: CEO and Executives - Businessweek". Businessweek.com.^{[dead link]}

Haberler, Gaziantep. "Grevin İlk Kaybedeni: Abdülkadir Konukoğlu". www.gaziantephaberler.com.

"iSKO alza il sipario sul denim del futuro". Pambianco TV.

"ISKO OPENS CONCEPT SHOWROOM - www.sportswearnet.com". sportswearnet.com.

"ISKO". Denim Future.

"ISKO S.R.L. - Trademark owner | Kurzy.cz". tm.kurzy.cz.

"İSKO, the denim language, ottiene la registrazione dei marchi jeggings, re call e smoked e il diritto di uso esclusivo degli stessi". admirabilia.it. Archived from the original on 17 November 2015.

"Unique Palette". textile-network.com.

Jess Cartner-Morley (8 October 2013). "After the skinny jean, the make-you-skinny jean". the Guardian.

"Istanbul: ISKO Laundry Seminar". WGSN Blog.

"Isko launches I-Skool project - www.sportswearnet.com". sportswearnet.com.

Trotman, Samuel. "ISKO Presents Creative Room". WGXN INSIDER.

15. "Sanko Üniversitesi -". Sanko Üniversitesi.

Categories:

• Companies based in San Francisco
• Jeans by brand
• Privately held companies based in California
• 1950s fashion
• 1970s fashion
• 1990s fashion
• 2010s fashion
• Clothing companies established in 1853
• Clothing brands
• 1960s fashion
• 1980s fashion
• 2000s fashion
• Financial District, San Francisco
• Clothing brands of the United States

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISKO_(clothing_company)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

For other uses, see Girdle (disambiguation).

A Christian (Anglican) priest wearing a white girdle around his waist to hold his alb and stole in place.

A belt, especially if a cord or rope, is called a girdle if it is worn as part of Christian liturgical vestments, or in certain historical, literary or sports contexts.

Girdles are used to close a cassock in Christian denominations, including the Anglican Communion, Catholic Church, Methodist Church and Lutheran Church.^[1] The girdle, in the 8th or 9th century, was said to resemble an ancient Levitical Jewish vestment, and in that era, was not visible. In 800 AD, the girdle began to be worn by Christian deacons in the Eastern Church.^[2]

The girdle, for men, symbolizes preparation and readiness to serve, and for women, represents chastity and protection;^[3] it was also worn by laypersons in the Middle Ages, as attested in literature. For example, the hagiographical account of Saint George and the Dragon mentions the evildoer being tamed with the sign of the cross and a girdle handed to Saint George by a virgin.^[4]

History

Grecian style tunic wrapped with a taenia (ribbon) girdle.

The men among the Greeks and Romans wore the girdle upon the loins, and it served them to confine the tunic, and hold the purse, instead of pockets, which were unknown; girls and women wore it under the bosom. The Strophium, Taenia, or Mitra occurs in many figures. In the small bronze Pallas of the Villa Albani, and in figures on the Hamilton Vases, are three cordons with a knot, detached from two ends of the girdle, which is fixed under the bosom. This girdle forms under the breast a knot of ribbon, sometimes in the form of a rose, as occur on the two handsomest daughters of Niobe. Upon the youngest the ends of the girdle pass over the shoulders, and upon the back, as they do upon four Caryatides found at Monte Portio. This part of the dress the ancients called, at least in the time of Isidore, Succinctorium or Bracile. The girdle was omitted by both sexes in mourning. Often when the tunic was very long, and would otherwise be entangled by the feet, it was drawn over the girdle in such a way as to conceal the latter entirely underneath its folds. It is not uncommon to see two girdles of different widths worn together, one very high up, the other very low down, so as to form between the two in the tunic, a puckered interval; but this fashion was mostly applied to short tunics. The tunic of the Greek males was almost always confined by a girdle.

Girdles of iron, to prevent obesity, were worn by some of the Britons. From the Druidical eras the cure of diseases, especially those of difficult parturition, were ascribed to wearing certain girdles. Among the Anglo-Saxons, it was used by both sexes; by the men to confine their tunic, and support the sword. We find it richly embroidered, and of white leather. The leather strap was chiefly worn by monks.^[5]

Vestment and iconography

Christian usage

In Catholic belief, the Girdle of Thomas is said to be handed down by the Virgin Mary during her Assumption

Further information: Cincture and Zone (vestment)

As a Christian liturgical vestment, the girdle is a long, rope-like cord tied around the waist over the alb or cassock. The Parson's Handbook describes the girdle as being made "generally of white linen rope, and may have a tassel at each end. About 12 ft. 6 in. long is a very convenient size if it is used double, one end being then turned into a noose and the tasselled ends slipped through. The girdle, however, may be coloured."^[6] Christian monastics would often hang religious texts, such as the Bible or Breviary, from their girdles and these became known as girdle books. In addition, they would often knot the ends of the girdle thrice, in order to represent the "vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience."^[3] As such, within the Christian Church, the girdle, in some contexts, represents chastity and within the Hebrew Bible, "Proverbs 31 provides biblical reference to the ancient practice of girdle making by virtuous chaste women".^[7] In the New Testament, "Christ referred to the girdle as a symbol of preparation and readiness for service (Luke 12:35–38)":^[3]

Be dressed ready for service and keep your lamps burning, like servants waiting for their master to return from a wedding banquet, so that when he comes and knocks they can immediately open the door for him. It will be good for those servants whose master finds them watching when he comes. Truly I tell you, he will dress himself to serve, will have them recline at the table and will come and wait on them. It will be good for those servants whose master finds them ready, even if he comes in the middle of the night or toward daybreak.

Saint Paul, in Ephesians 6:14 also references the term, stating "Stand therefore, first fastening round you the girdle of truth and putting on the breastplate of uprightness", further buttressing the concept of the girdle as a symbol of readiness.^[8] Many Christian clergy, such as Anglican priests and Methodist ministers, use the following prayer when wearing the girdle:

Gird me, O Lord, with the girdle of purity, and quench in me the fire of concupiscence that the grace of temperance and chastity may abide in me.^[3]

By the 8th century AD, the girdle became established as a liturgical vestment "in the strict sense of the word."^[9] Although the general word "cincture" is sometimes used as a synonym for the girdle, liturgical manuals distinguish between the two, as the "girdle is a long cord or rope while the cincture is a wide sash. Generally an alb is closed with a girdle, an Anglican-style double-breasted cassock is closed with a cincture, and a Roman cassock is closed with either one."^[1]

In the medieval and early modern period there are also accounts of girdles being used as a mnemonic. These would be tied or decorated with bead so that, like a rosary, each notch would remind the wearer of a particular psalm or book.^[10]

In Judaism

A gartel is a belt worn by Jewish males, predominantly (but not exclusively) Hasidim, during prayer. "Gartel" is Yiddish for "belt" and is cognate with the English word "girdle". Gartels are generally very modest in appearance. Most are black, but some gartels are white. Hasidic custom requires that there be a physical divide between the heart and the genitalia during any mention of God's name. It is commonly explained that separating the upper and lower parts of the body manifests a control of the animal instincts of the person by the distinctly human intellect.

Indian religions

In the Vajrayana iconography of the Hevajra Tantra, the 'girdle' (Tib.: ske rags), one of the 'Five Bone Ornaments' (aṣṭhiamudrā) symbolizes Amoghasiddhi and the 'accomplishing pristine awareness' (Kṛty-anuṣṭhāna-jñāna), one of the 'Five Wisdoms' (pañca-jñāna).^[11] The iconography of the girdle (or bone apron and belt ^[12]) in Vajrayana iconography developed from one of the items of vestment adorning the Mahasiddha of the charnel grounds.

Beer (1999: p. 318) describes the bone girdle as the 'netted bone apron and belt' as vesture of the Dakinis and Heruka of the Cham Dance and Gar Dance of Tibetan Buddhism sacred ritual dance performances:

The bone ornaments worn in these ritual dances are exquisitely carved – especially the netted bone apron and belt, which are commonly adorned with intricately carved images of dakinis.^[12]

Girdle in literature

The Lady of Shalott, with a medieval girdle around her waist (John William Waterhouse, 1888)

In literature, girdles are often portrayed as magical, giving power and strength if worn by men, and protection if worn by women. Several scriptures in the Bible make use of the girdle as a symbol for readiness and preparation. Ishtar, a Babylonian goddess, wore a fertility girdle, which, when it was removed, rendered the universe barren. Hercules wrestled with the Amazon queen for her girdle in his Greek myth. Aphrodite, or Venus in Roman mythology, also wore girdles associated with lechery in later poetry.^[13]

For men a girdle was often used to hold weapons. It also gave them freedom to move in a fight, unlike other types of clothing. Both of these are thought to carry the connection of power to the man's girdle in literature. For example, Odysseus wears a girdle which allows him to swim for three days straight, and a girdle worn by Thor doubles his strength.^[13]

Later, for women, the girdle became a sign of virginity, and was often considered to have magical properties. Monsters and all types of evil are recorded as being subdued by girdles in literature, a famous one being the dragon slain by Saint George. Marriage ceremonies continued this tradition of girdles symbolizing virginity by having the husband take the wife's girdle, and prostitutes were forbidden to wear them by law in historic France. Often in literature, women are portrayed as safe from sexual or other attack when wearing a girdle, but suddenly vulnerable if it is missing or stolen.^[13]

Non-clothing uses in literature include Tolkien's "Girdle of Melian", a magical, protective "wall" surrounding an elven kingdom.

The 20th century women's girdle attracts various references in literature, often in a disparaging way. For example, Marilyn French in her classic book, The Women's Room, is very critical not only of the girdle itself, but also of the virtual compulsion to wear one, a compulsion which existed until the late 1960s. In John Masters's Bhowani Junction, once the mixed-race Victoria Jones decides to opt for an Indian rather than British persona, she rejects her girdle as a "western garment".

For information on the girdle as a modern undergarment, see Girdle (undergarment)

Sports

In American football, a girdle is worn under the football player's pants to keep the hip, thigh, and tailbone pads in place, making the process of putting on the tight football pants easier. Older girdles resembled chaps, in that they covered only the front of the leg with pads, that snapped on. Modern girdles are essentially a tight pair of compression shorts with pockets for the pads. The girdle was also used in the Mesoamerican ballgame and is used in hockey (National Hockey League).

Some designs are made specifically for use in the sport of ringette.

See also

• Christianity portal
• Catholicism portal
• Methodism portal

• Confraternities of the Cord
• Girdle of Thomas
• Girdle book
• List of animals referred to as girdled

References

1. 
   

Moore, Stephen E. (1996). Church Words: Origins and Meanings. Forward Movement Publications. p. 53. ISBN 9780880281720. Generally an alb is closed with a girdle, an Anglican-style double-breasted cassock is closed with a cincture, and a Roman cassock is closed with either one.

Marriot, Wharton Booth (1868). Vestiarium Christianum; the Origin and Gradual Development of the Dress of Holy Ministry in the Church. Rivingtons. p. 213. Retrieved 17 June 2015. Till, in the eighth or ninth century, the idea of an intended resemblance in detail between the Christian and Levitical vestments was first broached, the Girdle, naturally was either not worn at all (with the tunica talaris it was not necessary), or, when worn, was not visible, and was thought of only as a matter of convenience. In none of the early monuments of the West before A.D. 800, is any trace of it to be seen. But in the East we have mention of a Girdle as worn by deacons, early in the eighth century.

Moore, Stephen E. (1996). Church Words: Origins and Meanings. Forward Movement Publications. p. 54. ISBN 9780880281720. Christ referred to the girdle as a symbol of preparation and readiness for service (Luke 12:35-38). St. Paul referred to it as a symbol of truth (Ephesians 6:14). The girdle of the monastic habit, knotted three times at the ends, symbolizes the three vows of poverty, chastity and obedience. The girdle became a Christian symbol of chastity, possibly derived from the ancient Jewish custom of women wearing ornate girdles symbolic of their virtue (Proverbs 31). Some traditional clergy still use an old vesting prayer when putting on the girdle which says, "Gird me, O Lord, with the girdle of purity, and quench in me the fire of concupiscence that the grace of temperance and chastity may abide in me."

Indick, William (18 May 2012). Ancient Symbology in Fantasy Literature: A Psychological Study. McFarland. p. 124. ISBN 9780786492336. The hero uses the power of Christianity, the Sign of the Cross, to wound the dragon. Then, in an interesting twist, he calls to the virgin to toss her girdle round the dragon's neck. Upon being leashed by the virgin's girdle, the once impressible dragon is tamed. It follows the princess like a meek puppy-dog. St. George and the princess lead the dragon back to the village where it terrifies the townspeople. St. George promises to slay the beast, but only if the townspeople convert to Christianity, which they quickly do.

Rev. Thomas D. Fosbroke (1843). Encyclopaedia of Antiquities and Elements of Archaeology, Volume 2. London: M. A. Nattali. p. 942.

Dearmer, Percy (1907). The Parson's Handbook. Oxford University Press. p. 141. Retrieved 17 June 2015.

Bershad, David; Mangone, Caroline (27 December 2011). The Christian Travelers Guide to Italy. Zondervan. ISBN 9780310315759.

Pink, Arthur W. (1 January 2013). Practical Christianity. Prisbrary. p. 281. ISBN 9788997762446.

Smith, Sir William; Cheetham, Samuel (1880). Dictionary of Christian Antiquitics. J.B. Burr Publishing Company. p. 728. Retrieved 17 June 2015. It has been said that it was not till the 8th century that we meet with the girdle as an ecclesiastical vestment in the strict sense of the word.

Hinde, William (1641). A faithfull remonstrance of the holy life and happy death of John Bruen. pp. 55–59.

Kongtrul, Jamgön (author); (English translators: Guarisco, Elio; McLeod, Ingrid) (2005). The Treasury of Knowledge (shes bya kun la khyab pa'i mdzod). Book Six, Part Four: Systems of Buddhist Tantra, The Indestructibe Way of Secret Mantra. Bolder, Colorado, USA: Snow Lion Publications. ISBN 1-55939-210-X (alk.paper) p.493

Beer, Robert (1999). The Encyclopedia of Tibetan Symbols and Motifs. Shambhala. ISBN 1-57062-416-X. Source: [1] (accessed: December 28, 2008) p.318

13. Friedman, Albert B., and Richard H. Osberg. "Gawain's Girdle as Traditional Symbol." The Journal of American Folklore 90.357 (1977): 301-15.

External links

• Media related to Girdles at Wikimedia Commons

v t e Order of the Divine Service in Lutheranism

v t e Mass of the Roman Rite of the Catholic Church

v t e Corsets and corsetmaking

v t e Lingerie

Categories:

• Belts (clothing)
• Anglican vestments
• Lutheran vestments
• 1920s fashion
• 1930s fashion
• 1940s fashion
• 1950s fashion
• 1960s fashion
• Corsetry
• History of clothing (Western fashion)
• Lingerie
• Foundation garments

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Girdle

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

For the song "Pencil Skirt" by Pulp, see Different Class.

Suit with a pencil skirt, German, 1954

Juliana Awada and Melania Trump in pencil skirts, 2017

A pencil skirt is a slim-fitting skirt with a straight, narrow cut. Generally the hem falls to, or is just below, the knee and is tailored for a close fit. It is named for its shape: long and slim like a pencil.^[1][2]

Style

The pencil skirt may be worn either as a separate piece of clothing or as part of a suit. A pencil skirt usually has a vent at the back, or less commonly at the sides, since its slim, narrow shape can otherwise restrict the movement of the wearer. Sometimes a kick pleat, which exposes less skin, is used instead of a vent. Pencil skirts made from stretchy knitted fabrics do not normally need vents or pleats.

Some classic shoes for wearing with a pencil skirt are pumps, or high heels, with sheer stockings or tights. Back-seamed hosiery recalls the classic pencil-skirt era of the 1950s. Pencil skirts can also be worn with flats for a more casual, youthful appearance that echoes the 1960s. Pencil skirts and loafers are classic preppy wear.

History

Narrow-fitting skirts have a long history in western fashion. The predecessor to the pencil skirt is the hobble skirt, a pre–World War I fad inspired by the Ballets Russes. This full-length skirt with a narrow hem seriously impeded walking.

The French designer Christian Dior introduced the classic modern pencil skirt in his 1954 Autumn Winter collection.^[3]

Along with the miniskirt, the pencil skirt quickly became very popular, particularly for office wear. This success was due to women's desire for new fashions in the wake of Second World War and Cold War rationing, coupled with the austere economic climate, when fabrics were expensive.

References

1. 
   

Givhan, Robin (August 18, 2003). "Fall Fashions". The Washington Post.

"Glossary of Fabric & Fashion Terms". Kohl's Corporation. Archived from the original on May 10, 2012. Retrieved February 3, 2010.

3. Matheesha Abhishek (2004). Christian Dior: The magic of Fashion. Haymarket, NSW, Australia: Powerhouse Publishing. ISBN 1-86317-048-0. Retrieved 3 February 2016.

External links

• Media related to Pencil skirts at Wikimedia Commons

v t e Clothing

Categories:

• 1940s fashion
• 1950s fashion
• 1960s fashion
• 1970s fashion
• 1980s fashion
• 1990s fashion
• 2000s fashion
• 2010s fashion
• Skirts

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pencil_skirt

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

PF Flyers

Type	Subsidiary
Founded	1937; 86 years ago in Akron, Ohio, United States
Founder	B.F. Goodrich
Headquarters	Boston, Massachusetts
Area served	Worldwide
Products	Apparel, clothing, and shoes
Parent	Kassia Designs, LLC
Website	www.pfflyers.com

A pair of PF Flyer "All American" high tops

PF Flyers is an American brand of lifestyle shoes owned by Kassia Designs, LLC. Founded in 1937 by B.F. Goodrich,^[1] it is one of the original American sneaker brands.

History

In 1933, inventor Hyman L. Witman and rubber manufacturing company B.F. Goodrich patented the "Posture Foundation" arch support insole, and began adding the new technology to its shoes. B.F. Goodrich shoes with Posture Foundation became known simply as "PF" in 1937. In 1935, Canadian badminton player Jack Purcell designed a low, white-bleached badminton shoe made of canvas and rubber for B.F. Goodrich. Named after Purcell, it featured a blue "smile" across the toe of the shoe and provided more protection for the court. By 1944, PF Flyers released their first kids' collection, and created the slogan, "Run Faster, Jump Higher".^[1] Fashion trends in the 1940s and 1950s saw PF Flyers expand from gyms and ball fields to become fashionable active footwear; its main competitors were Converse and Keds. "Everything you do is more fun with PF" read one 1947 magazine ad. PF styles ranged from high- and low-top sport shoes to oxfords and moccasins "for work, relaxation and play". PF Flyers' women's line was released in 1948.^[1] In 1950, PF Flyers became standard issue for certain military outfits. 1958 saw the first athlete to be endorsed by a shoe brand: All-star basketball player Bob Cousy of the Boston Celtics was chosen to market PF Flyers. PF Flyers also sponsored Jonny Quest when it ran from 1964 to 1965. By the 1960s, PF was one of the most popular shoes in America, with a 20% hold on all canvas sneakers sold, but struggled with industry changes in the early 1970s.^[1]

Acquisition

In 1972, Eltra Corporation, the former parent of Converse, purchased the PF Flyers brand from B.F. Goodrich, due to B.F. Goodrich leaving the shoe industry. However, this created a monopoly in the shoe market and the two brands were split due to an anti-trust lawsuit. Both companies were eventually sold in 1975.^[2] PF Flyers then fell into obscurity, dormant from 1975 to 2000. The brand was first sold to P&F Industries, Inc, then to the Brookfield Athletic Shoe Company.^[3] In 1988, Hyde Athletic Industries Inc. (now known as Saucony), planned to relaunch the PF Flyers brand through the acquisition of the Brookfield Athletic Shoe Company Inc., by first marketing the brand for kids before producing adult models.^[4] In 1991, LJO Inc. acquired the brand. Despite the split and selling of both companies, Converse kept the rights of the Jack Purcell line of shoes from the PF Flyers acquisition. Rebranded with the Converse name, Jack Purcell sneakers are still produced today.

In 2001, New Balance purchased PF Flyers and re-launched the brand in 2003.^[1] On 23 December 2014, New Balance filed a lawsuit against Nike-owned Converse for its federal trademark registration for the toe bumper, toe cap and striped midsole and had ruled out that, "Converse does not have the exclusive right to use a toe bumper, toe cap and striped midsole in connection with athletic footwear."^[3] On 15 July 2016, the United States International Trade Commission ruled in favor of New Balance, saying it could continue to produce PF Flyers footwear using the toe caps, toe bumpers, and stripes design.^[5] On 12 January 2021, New Balance confirmed that the PF Flyers brand had been discontinued.^[6]

On 21 July 2021, Kassia Davis, the founder of clothing brand KADA, acquired PF Flyers from New Balance, and will be operating under Kassia Designs, LLC.^[7]

Products

Current Models

Center

Introduced in the 1960s, the "Center" line is one of PF Flyer's most popular and well-known models. The "Center Hi" was also the same model featured in 1993's The Sandlot.^[8] In 2018, a baseball cleat model was introduced in collaboration with New Balance.

All American

In 1958, PF Flyers created the first athletic endorsement, of which was Bob Cousy of the Boston Celtics, to market PF Flyers with the "All American" model, which was a basketball shoe similar in design to the Converse Chuck Taylor basketball shoe. A reissue was released in 2009, of the "Bob Cousy Lo" that featured a Gullwing Closure of the top lace grommet.^[9] In 2017, New Balance re-released the "All American" model, featuring Fresh Foam used in New Balance's active line of shoes. On June 27, 2022, PF Flyers released a limited edition "Bob Cousy Hi Top" to celebrate the 2022 season of the Boston Celtics.^[10]

Previous Models

Jack Purcell

Originally designed in 1935 by Jack Purcell as a badminton shoe, the "Jack Purcell" was one of PF Flyers' first models.^[11] In 1972, the "RaceAround" and "Indy 500" shoes were released by B.F. Goodrich and were inspired by fast cars, such as the Corvette. That same year, Converse took ownership of PF Flyers until 1975, and kept the rights of the "Jack Purcell" line.^[12]

Made in USA

In 2015, PF Flyers launched their "Made in USA" collection; handmade in Boston, Massachusetts, to commemorate the 20th-century American-Made PF Flyers. Made in USA models include the "Center" and "Windjammer".^[13] On December 4, 2020, New Balance stated it will close its Boston plant in February 2021; thus leading to the discontinuation of the PF Flyers "Made in USA" collection.^[14]

Windjammer

In 1968, PF Flyers released the "Windjammer". A CVO-styled sneaker, but with the classic PF Flyer design. In 2018, New Balance re-released the "Windjammer" for its "Made in USA" line of footwear.^[15]

Grounder

In the 1940s, PF Flyers created a consumer version of their US military boot with the release of the "Grounder". The "Grounder" is similar in design to the "All American" model, but with a more durable out-sole and thicker tread.^[16] In 2013, the "Foundation Collection" was released with 'Van Buren' brogue, 'Beeson' chukka and 'Brewster' moc-toe models inspired by the Grounder.^[17]

Rambler

Released in 1943, "Rambler" featured high-visibility hash mark foxing, two-tone stitching, striated toecap, inner webbing stripe, and a pronounced diamond toe bumper. 'Hi' and 'Lo' top versions were available. In 2010, an archival reissue was released.^[18]

Sumfum

Originally released in 1947, the "Sumfum" featured an espadrille-styled upper and refined foxing details. An archival reissue was released in 2010.^[19]

Glide

In 1979, the "Glide" model was released. It was a basketball high top that featured era-specific markings, padded tongue, and heel ribs. In 2009, an archival reissue of the sneaker was released.^[20]

Number 5

Released in 2010, the "Number 5" featured a variety of material make-ups, full-grain leather and woven nylon builds. The signature chevron in the saddle separated this design from other PF Flyers models.^[21]

In Media

PF Flyers featured in the 1993 film The Sandlot;^[1] for the film's 20th anniversary, a limited edition shoe was made. In 2018, PF Flyers created another limited run reissue. PF Flyers appeared in the animated television series Jonny Quest (1964–1965) as the main sponsor of the show. Commercials for Jonny Quest would be centered around advertising PF Flyers shoes. One notable highlight of these commercials was the "PF Magic Ring", which featured "decoder dials", "magnifying glass", and a "secret compartment" inside the ring and would be included in the purchase of a pair of PF Flyers.^[22]

References

1. 
   

"Our Story". PF Flyers. Archived from the original on 27 October 2018. Retrieved 11 October 2018.

Schneider, Jason (1 July 2015). "12 Glorious Moments in the American History of PF Flyers". Retrieved 11 October 2018.

Brettman, Allan (24 December 2014). "PF Flyers Strike Back at Nike". Retrieved 21 June 2021.

White, George (15 September 1988). "Sneaking Back:P.F. Flyers Live". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved 21 June 2021.

Feitelberg, Rosemary (15 July 2016). "ITC Rules Against Converse in Trademark Infringement Lawsuit". WWD. Retrieved 21 June 2021.

@newbalance (12 January 2021). "Hey! These unfortunately have been phased out" (Tweet). Retrieved 12 October 2021 – via Twitter.

Ciment, Shoshy (21 July 2021). "Exclusive: Looking to Empower Women in Footwear, Kassia Davis Buys PF Flyers From New Balance, Her Family Business". Footwear News. Retrieved 21 July 2021.

"Center Hi". PF Flyers. Archived from the original on 16 August 2018. Retrieved 11 October 2018.

"PF Flyers Bob Cousy All American Low Top Reissue". 13 May 2009. Retrieved 9 September 2022.

"PF Flyers All American Cousy". Kicks On Fire. Retrieved 9 September 2022.

"Jack Purcell". Retrieved 9 September 2022.

"Jack Purcell RaceAround". 22 January 2018. Retrieved 9 September 2022.

"Introducing Ball and Buck's Newest Offering [Photo]". BostInno. Retrieved 6 October 2016.

"New Balance plans to close its Boston factory for good, trimming 60-plus jobs in the city". The Boston Globe. Retrieved 9 September 2022.

"Made in USA Windjammer". PF Flyers. Archived from the original on 16 August 2018. Retrieved 11 October 2018.

"Grounder Hi". PF Flyers. Archived from the original on 16 August 2018. Retrieved 11 October 2018.

"PF Flyers Introduces the Foundation". Sole Collector. Retrieved 9 September 2022.

"PF Flyers 2010 Spring Rambler Hi & Lo". 26 February 2010. Retrieved 9 September 2022.

"PF Flyers Fourth of July Pack". 28 June 2011. Retrieved 9 September 2022.

"PF Flyers Glide". 29 December 2009. Retrieved 9 September 2022.

"PF Flyers Number 5". 30 July 2010. Retrieved 10 September 2022.

22. Blosser, Lyle. "Jonny Quest Memorabilia". Classic Jonny Quest.com. Retrieved 22 June 2021.

External links

• Official website

Categories:

• Shoe brands
• Shoe companies of the United States
• 1950s fashion
• 1960s fashion
• Products introduced in 1937
• American brands

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PF_Flyers

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

"Tiffany's" redirects here. For other uses, see Tiffany (disambiguation).

Tiffany & Co.

Fifth Avenue flagship store in 2022
Formerly	Tiffany, Young and Ellis (1837–1853)
Type	Private
Industry	Retail
Founded	September 18, 1837 (185 years ago) in Brooklyn, Connecticut, U.S.
Founders	Charles Lewis Tiffany John B. Young
Headquarters	200 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10010 U.S.
Number of locations	326 stores (2020)[1]
Area served	Worldwide
Key people	Anthony Ledru (CEO) Alexandre Arnault (EVP) Michael Burke (Chairman)
Products	Jewelry porcelain crystal stationery fragrances watches accessories leather goods
Revenue	US$4.44 billion (FY Jan. 31, 2019)[2]
Operating income	$790.3 million (FY Jan. 31, 2019)[2]
Net income	$586.4 million (FY Jan. 31, 2019)[2]
Total assets	$5.33 billion (FY Jan. 31, 2019)[2]
Total equity	$3.12 billion (FY Jan. 31, 2019)[2]
Number of employees	14,200[3] (2019)
Parent	LVMH
Website	www.tiffany.com
Footnotes / references [4]

Tiffany & Co. (colloquially known as Tiffany's)^[4] is an American luxury jewelry and specialty design house headquartered on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan.^[5][6] Tiffany is known for its luxury goods, particularly its sterling silver and diamond jewelry.^[7] These goods are sold at Tiffany stores, online, and through corporate merchandising. Its name and branding are licensed to Coty for fragrances^[8] and to Luxottica for eyewear.^[9]

Tiffany & Co. was founded in 1837 by the jeweler Charles Lewis Tiffany and became famous in the early 20th century under the artistic direction of his son Louis Comfort Tiffany. In 2018, net sales totaled US$4.44 billion.^[10][11] As of 2023, Tiffany operated over 300 stores globally, in many countries including the United States, Japan, and Canada, as well as Europe, Latin America, and the collective Asia-Pacific region, and is exploring opportunities in Africa.^[1] The company's product line features fine jewelry, sterling silver, watches, porcelain, crystal, stationery, haute couture fragrance and personal accessories, and leather goods.^[12]

On January 7, 2021, multinational holding company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton acquired majority stake in Tiffany & Co for US$15.8 billion^[13] and delisted Tiffany's stock from the New York Stock Exchange.^[14] It remains headquartered in New York City and operates as an independent subsidiary.

History

Establishment

Tiffany & Company, Union Square, Manhattan, storage area with porcelain, c. 1887

Tiffany & Co. was founded in 1837 by Charles Lewis Tiffany and John B. Young,^[15] in New York City, as a "stationery and fancy goods emporium", with the help of Charles Tiffany's father, who financed the store for only $1,000 with profits from a cotton mill.^[16] The store initially sold a wide variety of stationery items and, as of 1837, operated as "Tiffany, Young and Ellis" at 259 Broadway in Lower Manhattan.^[17] The name was shortened to Tiffany & Company in 1853, when Charles Tiffany took control and established the firm's emphasis on jewelry.^[18] The company has since opened stores in major cities worldwide. Unlike other stores at the time in the 1830s, Tiffany clearly marked the prices on its goods to forestall any haggling over prices. In addition, against the social norm at the time, Tiffany only accepted cash payments, and did not allow purchases on credit.^[19] Such practices (fixed prices for ready money) had first been introduced in 1750 by Palmer's of London Bridge.^[20]

"Blue Book" and the Civil War

The first Tiffany mail order catalog, known as the "Blue Book", was published in 1845 in the United States (U.S.),^[21] and publishing of the catalog continues in the 21st century. In 1862, Tiffany supplied the Union Army with swords (Model 1840 Cavalry Saber), flags and surgical implements. In 1867, Tiffany was the first U.S. firm to win an award for excellence in silverware at the Exposition Universelle in Paris. In 1868, Tiffany was incorporated.^[7]

"Gilded Age"

In 1870, the company built a new store building at 15 Union Square West, Manhattan, which was designed by John Kellum and cost US$500,000. It was described by The New York Times as a "palace of jewels."^[22] Tiffany stayed at this site until 1906.^[22]

In 1877, an insignia that would become the New York Yankees "NY" logo was struck on a police medal of honor by Tiffany; the Yankees adopted the logo in 1909. In 1878, Tiffany won the gold medal for jewelry and a grand prize for silverware at the Paris Exposition. In 1879, Tiffany purchased one of the world's largest yellow diamonds which became known as the Tiffany Diamond. The Tiffany Diamond has only been worn by four people, one of whom was Audrey Hepburn for the promotion of Breakfast at Tiffany's.^[23] In 1887, Tiffany bought a number of pieces at the auction of part of the French Crown Jewels, which attracted publicity and further solidified the Tiffany brand's association with high-quality diamonds.^[24] The company revised the Great Seal of the United States in 1885.^[25]

20th century

"Tiffany Cross" version of the Medal of Honor

In 1902, after the death of Charles Lewis Tiffany, his son, Louis Comfort Tiffany, became the company's first official design director.^[21] In 1905, the Manhattan flagship store was relocated to the corner of 37th Street and Fifth Avenue, where it would remain for 35 years.^[26]

In 1919, the company made a revision to the Medal of Honor on behalf of the United States Department of the Navy.^[27] This "Tiffany Cross" version was rare because it was awarded only for combat, using the previous design for non-combat awards.^[28] In 1942, the Navy established the Tiffany version for non-combat heroism as well but, in August 1942, the Navy subsequently eliminated the Tiffany Cross and the two-medal system.^[29]

The company moved its flagship store to its present-day 727 Fifth Avenue building in 1940; the building was designed by Cross & Cross.^[30] In 1956, legendary designer Jean Schlumberger joined Tiffany, and Andy Warhol collaborated with the company to create Tiffany holiday cards (circa 1956–1962).^[21][31] In 1968, Lady Bird Johnson, First Lady of the U.S. at the time, commissioned Tiffany to design a White House china-service that featured 90 flowers.^[32][33]

In November 1978, Tiffany & Co. was sold to Avon Products, Inc for about US$104 million in stock.^[34] However, in a 1984 Newsweek article, the Fifth Avenue Tiffany store was likened to the Macy's department store during a white sale, due to the high number of inexpensive items on sale;^[19] furthermore, customers complained about declining quality and service. In August 1984, Avon sold Tiffany to an investor group led by William R. Chaney for $135.5 million in cash. Tiffany went public again in 1987 and raised about $103.5 million from the sale of 4.5 million shares of common stock.^[19]

Due to the 1990–1991 recession in the United States, Tiffany commenced an emphasis upon mass merchandising. A new campaign was launched that stressed how Tiffany could be affordable for all; for example, the company advertised that the price of diamond engagement rings started at $850. "How to Buy a Diamond" brochures were sent to 40,000 people, who called a toll-free number specifically set up to target the broader population.^[19] However, to maintain its image as a luxury goods company, high-style images remained on display in Tiffany stores.^[19]

On September 4, 1994, a jewelry heist occurred at the store in New York City, in which six men stole $1.9 million of jewelry. During the incident, no shots were fired and no vandalism occurred. Two weeks after the robbery, the six men were arrested and the jewelry was recovered.^[35]

Tiffany & Co. trademarked their signature Tiffany Blue color in 1998. Three years later they partnered with Pantone to standardize the color as "1837 Blue".^[36]

2000s

Tiffany & Co. blue gift boxes

The Tiffany & Co. Foundation was established in 2000 to provide grants to nonprofit organizations working in the areas of the environment and the arts.^[37] In June 2004, Tiffany sued eBay, claiming that the latter was making profits from the sale of counterfeit Tiffany products;^[38] however, Tiffany lost both at trial and on appeal.^[39]

Tiffany & Co. established their subsidiary Laurelton Diamonds in 2002 to manage Tiffany's worldwide diamond supply chain.^[40]

In 2009, a collaboration between the Japanese mobile-phone operator SoftBank and Tiffany & Co. was announced. The two companies designed a cellphone, limited to ten copies, and containing more than 400 diamonds, totaling more than 20 carats (4.0 g). Each cellphone cost more than 100 million yen (£781,824).^[41]

Also in 2009, the company launched their Tiffany Keys collection.^[42]

2010s and 2020s

A media report in early July 2013 revealed that former Tiffany & Co. vice president Ingrid Lederhaas-Okun had been arrested and charged with stealing more than $1.3 million of diamond bracelets, drop earrings, and other jewelry. According to prosecutors from Manhattan, the official charges filed against Lederhaas-Okun accused her of "wire fraud and interstate transportation of stolen property."^[43]

The company's Francesca Amfitheatrof-designed Tiffany T collection debuted in 2014.^[44]

In February 2017, the company announced that CEO Frédéric Cuménal was out of a job, effective immediately, after only 22 months, blaming weak sales results. He was replaced on an interim basis by the company's longtime former CEO, Michael Kowalski.^[45] Shortly before his abrupt departure, Cuménal had appointed former Coach designer Reed Krakoff as the company's new chief artistic officer. Although Krakoff had had no previous experience with jewellery design, his previous success with Coach and "deep understanding of iconic American design" led to his appointment, with the hopes that Krakoff would be able to refresh the image of the brand.^[46][47]

In April 2017, the company launched their Tiffany HardWear collection.^[48]

In July 2017, it was announced that Bulgari veteran Alessandro Bogliolo would be taking over as CEO. Under his leadership, it was hoped that Tiffany & Co. could turn around slumping sales and capture a younger audience.^[49]

Tiffany & Co. opened the Blue Box Cafe in New York City in November 2017.^[50] Also in November 2017, the company launched their Home & Accessories line.^[51]

In March 2018, the company opened the Jewelry Design and Innovation Workshop, a new 17,000-square-foot atelier.^[50]

In May 2018, Tiffany launched their Paper Flowers Collection, designed by Reed Krakoff.^[52]

In September 2018, Tiffany launched their Paper Flowers collection in Asia.^[53] That same month, the company debuted a new proprietary engagement ring design called the Tiffany True.^[54]

In August 2019, Tiffany launched their first men's jewelry collection in October of the same year.^[55] The line was developed by Reed Krakoff.^[56]

In October 2019, Tiffany opened a new brand exhibition in Shanghai, China called "Vision & Virtuosity".^[57]

Tiffany opened its first store in New Delhi, India on 3 February 2020.^[58]

Acquisition by LVMH

In November 2019, LVMH announced its purchase of Tiffany & Co for $16.2 billion, $135 per share.^[59] The deal was expected to close by June 2020.^[60]

After LVMH decided to cancel the pending purchase of Tiffany in September 2020, Tiffany filed suit, asking the court to compel the purchase or to assess damages against the defendant; LVMH planned to counter sue, alleging that mismanagement had invalidated the purchase agreement.^[61] In mid-September 2020, a reliable source told Forbes that LVMH had decided to cancel the deal because Tiffany was paying millions in dividends to shareholders despite financial losses during the COVID-19 pandemic. Some US$70 million had already been paid by Tiffany, with an additional US$70 million to be paid in November 2020.^[62] LVMH filed a counterclaim against the court action commenced by Tiffany; a statement issued by LVMH blamed Tiffany's mismanagement during the pandemic and claimed that it was "burning cash and reporting losses".^[63]

In late October 2020, LVMH announced that it had agreed to buy Tiffany & Co. at a reduced price of almost $16 billion, and lowered price from $135 per share to $131.5 per share. The court cases would be set aside.^[64][65] In December 2020, Tiffany & Co's shareholders approved a $15.8 billion deal with LVMH.^[66] The deal closed on January 7, 2021, and Tiffany' stock was delisted from the New York Stock Exchange.^[67][14] After LVMH's acquisition, several of Tiffany's senior leaders were replaced with executives from other sectors of LVMH.^[68][69] Alexandre Arnault, the son of LVMH's CEO Bernard Arnault, was given the role of executive vice president.^[70]

LVMH group's plans include expanding Tiffany & Co.'s presence in Europe and China.^[71][69] "Tiffany is less exposed than rivals to Asia-Pacific - a major driver for luxury sales - which accounted for 28% of its worldwide sales of $4.4 billion in 2019."^[72]

Partnership with Riot Games. Announced that Tiffany & Co. will design the trophy for the League of Legends World Championship 2022.^[73]

Stores

Tiffany's flagship store, interior

Tiffany & Co. at Phipps Plaza in Atlanta, Georgia

Since 1940, Tiffany's flagship store has operated at the corner of Fifth Avenue and 57th Street in Manhattan, New York City. The polished granite exterior is well known for its window displays, and the store has been the location for a number of films, including Breakfast at Tiffany's, starring Audrey Hepburn, and Sweet Home Alabama, starring Reese Witherspoon. The former Tiffany and Company Building on 37th Street is on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places.^[74]

When it opened in 1990, the Tiffany & Co. store at Fairfax Square in Tysons Corner, Virginia, became the largest outside of New York City, with 14,500 sq ft (1,350 m²) of retail space.^[75]

In France, Tiffany stores are located in Rue de la Paix and the Avenue des Champs Elysées (the largest European store^[76]) in Paris.

In Australia, Tiffany's flagship store is located on Collins Street in Melbourne, first established in 1996.^[77]

On March 8, 2001, Tiffany launched its first Latin American store in São Paulo, Brazil, located in the Iguatemi São Paulo shopping center.^[78] The company opened a second store in the city on October 20, 2003,^[79] near the famous Oscar Freire Street.

In 2004, Tiffany created "Iridesse", a chain of stores dedicated to pearl-only jewelry. The company operated 16 stores in Florida, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania, California, Illinois, Massachusetts, and Virginia. However, the chain operated at a loss since its founding and the company announced in early 2009 that, despite its continued belief in the concept, it would discontinue Iridesse due to the financial crisis of 2007-2008.^[80]

As of 2018, Tiffany operated 93 stores in the US and 321 stores worldwide, including (as of 31 January 2017) 55 locations in Japan and 85 in the Asia-Pacific region. Net sales in 2018 totaled US$4.44 billion.^[81][11]

Advertising

After the initial publication of the "Blue Book" Tiffany catalog in 1845, Tiffany continued to use its catalog as part of its advertisement strategy. The Tiffany catalog, one of the first catalogs printed in full color, remained free until 1972. Tiffany's mail-order catalogs reached 15 million people in 1994. Tiffany also produces a corporate-gift catalog each year, and corporate customers purchase Tiffany products for business gift-giving, employee-service and achievement-recognition awards, and for customer incentives. As of 2013 Tiffany still produces a catalog for subscribers, but its advertisement strategy no longer focuses primarily on its catalog.^[7]

In addition to the mail-order catalog, Tiffany displays its advertisements in many locations, including at bus stops, in magazines and newspapers, and online. With the advent of new technologies, Tiffany placed banner advertisements in the New York Times' mobile app for the iPhone, whereby the user can download the Tiffany app.^[82][83] In January 2015, Tiffany launched its first ever same-sex couple campaign.

In 2017, Tiffany partnered with American pop star Lady Gaga for an ad campaign promoting the company's HardWear collection.^[84] The announcement came as a Super Bowl ad prior to Lady Gaga's Super Bowl LI halftime show performance.^[85]

In May 2018, Tiffany partnered with Spotify for the launch of Tiffany's "Believe in Dreams" campaign and Paper Flowers collection, releasing a cover of the song "Moon River" by Elle Fanning and rapper A$AP Ferg on the music streaming service.^[86]

In 2019, Tiffany partnered with American celebrity Kendall Jenner to promote the company's spring fashion line.^[87]

In 2021, Tiffany partnered with American singer Beyoncé and rapper Jay-Z to promote the company's "About Love" campaign.^[88] Beyoncé became the fourth woman, and first Black woman, to wear the Tiffany Yellow Diamond.^[89] The campaign incorporated Tiffany's recently acquired robin egg blue painting, Equals Pi (1982), by American artist Jean-Michel Basquiat.^[88]

In 2022, Tiffany partnered with Curtis Kulig while retaining his original "Love Me" concept, Kulig also created other love-themed messages such as: "Dare Me," "Know Me," and "Kiss Me" to be displayed alongside the Tiffany HardWear, Tiffany Knot and Tiffany T collections.^[90]

Products

Diamonds

The Tiffany Yellow Diamond

Tiffany is known for its luxury goods, particularly its diamond and sterling silver jewelry.^{[91][92][93][94]}

George Frederick Kunz (1856–1932), a Tiffany gemologist, became instrumental in the international adoption of the metric carat as a weight standard for gems. The Tiffany Yellow Diamond (128.54 carats (25.708 g)) is usually on display in the New York City flagship store.^[95]

In 1886, founder Charles Tiffany conceived of the Tiffany Setting ring design, in which six prongs hold the diamond off of the band, in order to better accentuate the diamond.^[96]

Like other similar diamond retailers, Tiffany enacts a strict policy against the repurchasing of diamonds sold from its stores. In 1978, a woman in New York City was denied after she attempted to sell back a diamond ring she had bought from Tiffany two years earlier for $100,000. Writing for The Atlantic publication in 1982, Edward Jay Epstein explained the rationale for such a policy:

Retail jewelers, especially the prestigious Fifth Avenue stores, prefer not to buy back diamonds from customers, because the offer they would make would most likely be considered ridiculously low ... Most jewelers would prefer not to make a customer an offer that might be deemed insulting and also might undercut the widely held notion that diamonds go up in value. Moreover, since retailers generally receive their diamonds from wholesalers on consignment, and need not pay for them until they are sold, they would not readily risk their own cash to buy diamonds from customers. Rather than offer customers a fraction of what they paid for diamonds, retail jewelers almost invariably recommend to their clients firms that specialize in buying diamonds "retail".^[97]

In 2019, Tiffany CEO Alessandro Bogliolo announced that in 2020 the company would become transparent regarding the country or region of origin of the company's newly sourced and individually registered diamonds.^[98]

Colored gemstones

Tiffany offers jewelry incorporating a wide variety of colored gemstones, including gems it played a role in popularizing, such as tsavorite,^[99] kunzite, and morganite. In February 2015 a turquoise and aquamarine bib designed by Francesca Amfitheatrof, Tiffany's design director, and worn by Cate Blanchett at the 2015 Academy Awards, contrasted favorably with the white–diamond encrusted jewelry worn by other stars.^[100]

Fragrances

Original 1989 sample bottle of "Tiffany for Men" fragrance

In the late 1980s, Tiffany & Co. ventured into the fragrance business. "Tiffany" for women was launched in 1987, a floral perfume for women by perfumer François Demachy. At $220 per ounce, "Tiffany" was successfully marketed by major department stores across the United States.^[101] Two years later, "Tiffany for Men" was launched in 1989 and developed by perfumer Jacques Polge. The bottles for both the men's and women's fragrance were designed by Pierre Dinand.^[102] In 1995, Tiffany launched "Trueste" perfume for women, which was later discontinued.^{[citation needed]}

In October 2019, Tiffany launched a new fragrance line, Tiffany & Love.^[103]

Sports awards

Tiffany & Co is the maker of the Vince Lombardi Trophy, made for the winner of the NFL team that wins the Super Bowl that year.^[104][105]

Since 1977, Tiffany & Co. has manufactured Larry O' Brien Trophy, the trophy that is given to the winner of the NBA Finals.^[104]

Tiffany makes and designed the World Baseball Classic Trophy, and Commissioner's Trophy trophy each year, given to the winner of the World Series.^[104] Tiffany & Co made the 2010 and 2012 World Series rings for the San Francisco Giants.^[106]

Since 1987, Tiffany silversmiths have crafted the US Open trophies for the United States Tennis Association.^[104]

Tiffany & Co. makes the PGA Tour FedEx Cup Trophy each year since 2007.^[104]

The MLS championship trophy was made by Tiffany & Co.^[107]

A £10,000 Rugby League World Cup trophy was made by Tiffany's to celebrate the centenary of Rugby league.^[108]

In 2021, Tiffany & Co. joined the LCK sponsorship team after noticing the league's rapid growth. Tiffany & Co. would award championship rings to the winners of the LCK finals for the next three years beginning with the Summer Split of 2021.^[109] In LPL, a trophy was designed by Tiffany and Co. for the new Silver Dragon Cup to commemorate LoL's tenth anniversary in China.^[110]

Philanthropy

In 2000, The Tiffany & Co. Foundation awarded its first grant to support coral and marine conservation. To date, the foundation has awarded over $20 million in grant money to coral and marine conservation causes.^[111]

In 2008, The Tiffany & Co. Foundation donated $2 million to the University of Pennsylvania for the construction of an HIV/AIDS treatment facility in Botswana.^[112]

In 2010, Tiffany awarded a $1 million grant to the Trust for Public Land and its campaign to save Cahuenga Peak.^[113]

Tiffany launched their Save the Wild Collection in 2017, a line at promoting endangered wildlife conservation.^[114] Save the Wild debuted as part of the #KnotOnMyPlanet wildlife conservation campaign.^[115] In 2018, Tiffany announced a commitment of approximately $1.4 million to Australia for efforts to protect and conserve the Great Barrier Reef.^[116]

Corporate sustainability efforts

Tiffany has bought ethically mined gold since 1992. The company also abides by the Kimberley certification process when sourcing diamonds.^[117]

Tiffany discontinued sales of coral jewelry in 2004 due to declining oceanic health.^[111] In 2005, Tiffany joined Earthwork's No Dirty Gold campaign, becoming the first jewelry company to apply the Earthwork's Golden Rules for responsible mining.^[118]

In 2006, Tiffany & Co. joined Microsoft, IdustriALL Global Union, United Steelworkers along with others in founding the Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance, known as IRMA.^[119]

In 2011, Tiffany joined the United Nations Global Compact initiative in efforts to align company operations with the non-binding global sustainability and human rights goals.^[117]

In 2015, Anisa Costa was appointed Tiffany's first-ever Chief Sustainability Officer.^[120][121] That same year, Tiffany pledged to reach net-zero greenhouse gas emissions by 2050. The company also advocated for the U.S. to remain in the Paris Agreement along with other companies.^[122]

In popular culture

The retailer has been mentioned in various works, most notably in the title of the 1958 Truman Capote novella Breakfast at Tiffany's, adapted as the 1961 film starring Audrey Hepburn.^[123]

Gallery

• 

  Silver tea pot

• 

  White House china service for Lady Bird Johnson

• 

  Tea set, c. 1877, held at the Birmingham Museum of Art

• 

  Carved frog for display at the Exposition Universelle (1900) in Paris

• 

  Diamond necklace, c. 1904

• 

  Hooker Emerald Brooch, commissioned by Tiffany in 1950

• 

  Tray or Waiter, displayed at World's Columbian Exposition, 1893, Brooklyn Museum

See also

• New York City portal
• Companies portal
• Fashion portal

• Art Nouveau glass art
• Yeojin Bae
• Clara Driscoll (Tiffany glass designer)
• Walter Hoving
• John Loring (designer)
• Camille Le Tallec
• Tiffany glass
• Tiffany lamp
• LVMH

Notes

1. 
   

O'Connell, Liam (March 27, 2020). "Tiffany & Co.'s number of retail locations worldwide in 2019, by region". Statista. Archived from the original on August 3, 2020. Retrieved May 7, 2020.

"Tiffany & Co. (TIF) NYSE – Nasdaq Real Time Price. Currency in USD". Yahoo. May 19, 2020. Archived from the original on September 24, 2020. Retrieved May 19, 2020.

"Tiffany company profile". Craft. Archived from the original on August 9, 2020. Retrieved August 9, 2019.

"US SEC: Form 10-K Tiffany & Co". U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission. Archived from the original on August 15, 2020. Retrieved February 22, 2018.

Dana Rubinstein (April 29, 2010). "Tiffany & Co. To Relocate Headquarters to Flatiron District". The New York Observer. Archived from the original on February 14, 2021. Retrieved February 8, 2021.

"Tiffany & Co". The New York Times. Archived from the original on September 6, 2015. Retrieved January 20, 2016.

"History of Tiffany & Company – FundingUniverse". Fundinguniverse.com. Archived from the original on May 13, 2012. Retrieved February 18, 2013.

Danziger, Pamela (August 19, 2017). "Luxury Brand Licensing: 5 Keys to Success Revealed In Critical Look At Tiffany-Coty's Fragrance Deal". Forbes. Archived from the original on September 2, 2022. Retrieved September 2, 2022.

Passariello, Christina (December 5, 2006). "Tiffany Signs a Licensing Deal With Glasses Maker Luxottica". Wall Street Journal. ISSN 0099-9660. Archived from the original on September 2, 2022. Retrieved September 2, 2022.

"Tiffany & Co". Bloomberg. July 11, 2019. Archived from the original on February 6, 2020. Retrieved November 30, 2019. and also engages in direct selling through internet, catalog, and business gift operations

"Number of Tiffany & Co. stores by region worldwide in 2018, by region". Statista. August 9, 2019. Archived from the original on August 3, 2020. Retrieved November 30, 2019.

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References

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• Frelinghuysen, Alice Cooney. Louis Comfort Tiffany and Laurelton Hall. New Haven, Connecticut: Yale University Press, 2006.
• Green, Annette and Linda Dyett. Secrets of Aromatic Jewelry. Paris: Flammarion, 1998.
• Hood, William P., with Roslyn Berlin and Edward Wawrynek. Tiffany Silver Flatware 1845–1905: When Dining was an Art. Suffolk, England: Antique Collectors Club, 1999.
• Loring, John. Tiffany Colored Gems. New York: Abrams, 2007. (Available Fall 2007)
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External links

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 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiffany_%26_Co.

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Digby Morton
Digby Morton, 1949
Born	Henry Digby Morton 27 November 1906[1] Dublin, Ireland[2]
Died	5 December 1983 (aged 77)[3] London, England
Occupation	Fashion designer
Notable credit(s)	Aberfoyle International Fashion award, New York, 1956[4]

Henry Digby Morton (1906–1983) was an Irish fashion designer and among the leading names of British couture in the period from 1930-50. He was also among the pioneers of ready-to-wear fashions in the 1950s. Successful on both sides of the Atlantic, he redefined women's suits and tailoring, earned himself the moniker 'Daring Digby' for his US fashion venture and helped to establish the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers, an early forerunner of the British Fashion Council.

His contemporary Hardy Amies said of Morton: "[His] philosophy was to transform the suit from the strict tailleur, or the ordinary country tweed suit with its straight up and down lines, uncompromising and fit only for the moors, into an intricately cut and carefully designed garment that was so fashionable that it could be worn with confidence at the Ritz".^[5]

Digby Morton checked jacket and dress ensemble from 1948-9, part of the Victoria and Albert Museum archive

Background and early career

Henry Digby Morton was born in Dublin, the son and grandson of accountants for the Guinness brewing organisation.^[2] He studied architecture at Dublin Metropolitan School of Art, moving to London in 1923.^[2][4]

Working first at Selfridges and Liberty, he then moved on to the fashion store Jay's as a sketch artist recreating Paris designs to appeal to London customers. By 1928, he'd become designer for couture house Gray Paulette & Shingleton – bringing both his own staff and his design flair. He suggested that it be rebranded as Lachasse – he later said this was because British women wouldn't accept any designs without a French-sounding name.^[4] Lachasse specialised in sportswear – a key 1920s trend – and Morton created a debut collection featuring Donegal tweed in what were then radical colour combinations such as bright greens and pale blues blended with traditional browns.^[2] This updated hitherto 'stuffy' country tweeds into smart town clothing, especially as Morton also streamlined the cut and tailoring to make the suits more fitted and fashionable.^[4] He left Lachasse after five years (he was succeeded by Hardy Amies) in order to set up his own couture house.^[4] He married the editor of Woman and Beauty Phyllis Panting (known professionally as Anne Seymour) in 1936.^[2][3]

Wartime and post-war career

Digby Morton remained active during the war as a couturier, charging at least £25 for a good quality tweed suit.^[6] But he also responded to the wartime need for well designed and affordable clothing. As a founder member of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers (IncSoc), he was among those invited by the Board of Trade to design for wartime, respecting the strict guidelines of rationing and utility.^[7][8] His contributions included designing outfits for the WRVS.^[2] Among his other notable wartime creations was a designer version of the siren suit (a utility boilersuit designed for air raids and work) commissioned by Viyella and made in its cotton/wool mix fabric.^[9]

Morton – along with other members of IncSoc – also designed costumes for a number of British films, including the wartime production Ships with Wings and post-war movies Maytime in Mayfair and The Astonished Heart. Showcasing the work of couturiers was seen as a way to convince other manufacturers and the general public of the fashion value of utility designs.^[10]

American and ready-to-wear ventures

After the war, Morton re-opened his couture house, but already recognised that ready-to-wear would be the future of fashion. It was this period of his career when he gained greatest acclaim. In 1953, US manufacturer Hathaway asked Morton to describe a women's range. He copied men's shirts, tailored and adjusted for the female form and made in bright colours with contrasting bowties. The success of this innovation landed him the Time magazine epithet: 'Daring Digby'.^[2]

In 1957, Morton closed his London couture house and set up another UK venture Reldan-Digby Morton (later Reldan), with the fashion producer Mick Nadler, who had inherited the company Reldan, (Surname Nadler spelt backwards) from his father Nathan Nadler, who had originally started the company after the First World War from premises in Brick Lane, East London. Reldan invented the capsule collection for Mary Wilson, wife to Harold Wilson, prime minister in the 1960’s. When Mick Nadler died suddenly, Morton took over. The brand was successful on both sides of the Atlantic and created the aura of couture in ready-to-wear styles.^[2]

Never a lover of ostentation – he referred to evening wear as debutante clothes – Morton took his love of fine tailoring into menswear, setting up Digby Morton Menswear in 1963 in association with the German chemical firm Hoechst. Here he was able to produce a range of casual "easy-care" clothing, taking advantage of the firm's recently-developed Trevira wash-and-wear fibre, and used the same skill he'd displayed on women's suiting to break conventions.^[4]

Morton and his wife retired to the Cayman Islands, where he pursued his interest in painting and became an active member of the island's visual arts society.^[3]

Archive

Morton's work was exhibited as part of a 2007 Victoria and Albert Museum exhibition called The Golden Age of Couture. His work is also part of the V&A archive.^[11]

References

1. 
   

Anderson, Fiona. "Morton (Henry) Digby (1906/7-1983)". oxfordindex.oup.com. Oxford Index. Retrieved 8 August 2014.

Armstrong, Maggie (10 May 2014). "Tailor's Tale: Fashion's forgotten man". Independent IE. Retrieved 6 August 2014.

staff (8 December 1983). "Mr Digby Morton". The Times. The Times Digital Archive. Web. 15 Sept. 2014. Retrieved 15 September 2014.

Woram, Catherine. "Morton, Digby". fashionencyclopedia.com. Fashion Encyclopedia. Retrieved 6 August 2014.

"Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)". vam.ac.uk. Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved 7 August 2014.

Howell, Geraldine (2012). Wartime Fashion: From Haute Couture to Homemade, 1939-1945. London: Berg. p. 7. ISBN 9780857850706. Retrieved 7 August 2014.

Exhibit. "Original no.16". vam.ac.uk. Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved 7 August 2014.

Howell, Geraldine (2012). Wartime Fashion: From Haute Couture to Homemade, 1939-1945. London: Berg. p. 169. ISBN 9780857850706. Retrieved 7 August 2014.

Howell, Geraldine (2012). Wartime Fashion: From Haute Couture to Homemade, 1939-1945. London: Berg. p. 69. ISBN 9780857850706. Retrieved 7 August 2014.

Leese, Elizabeth (1991). Costume Design in the Movies. Mineola, NY: Dover Publications Inc. pp. 16–17, 32. ISBN 048626548X. Retrieved 8 August 2014.

11. Alexander, Hilary (10 September 2007). "When a dress was a dream made real". Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 6 August 2014.

Further reading

• de la Haye, A., "Material Evidence" in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947–57 (V&A Publications: 2007), pl. 4.5 and p. 94

External links

• Tailored dress and jacket by Digby Morton at the Victoria and Albert Museum
• Morton evening gown from the 1950s in draped silk jersey
• Portrait by Norman Parkinson at the National Portrait Gallery
• Digby Morton labels at Vintage Fashion Guild

Authority control: Artists	Te Papa (New Zealand)

Categories:

• 1906 births
• 1920s fashion
• 1930s fashion
• 1940s fashion
• 1950s fashion
• 1960s fashion
• 1983 deaths
• Irish fashion designers
• Businesspeople from Dublin (city)
• Alumni of the National College of Art and Design

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digby_Morton

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Longchamp SAS

Longchamp flagship store, Manhattan
Type	Private
Industry	Fashion
Founded	1948; 75 years ago in Paris
Founder	Jean Cassegrain
Headquarters	Paris , France
Area served	Worldwide
Key people	Jean Cassegrain (CEO) Sophie Delafontaine (creative director)
Products	Handbags small leather goods luggage footwear ready-to-wear
Owner	Cassegrain family
Number of employees	3,000
Website	longchamp.com

Longchamp is a French leather goods company, founded in Paris in 1948 by Jean Cassegrain.^[1] The company pioneered luxury leather-covered pipes before expanding into small leather goods. Longchamp debuted women's handbags in 1971, becoming one of France's leading leather goods makers.^[2] Today, the company designs and manufactures leather and canvas handbags, luggage, shoes, travel items, fashion accessories, and women's ready-to-wear.^[3][4][5] The house is privately owned and managed by the Cassegrain founding family^[4][1] and does business in 80 countries through around 1,500 retail outlets.^[6]

History

Early history

In 1948, Jean Cassegrain took over his father's traditional tobacco business^[7][8] "Au Sultan" in Paris.^[4]

After the Second World War, Jean Cassegrain catered to Allied troops with his tobacco and smoking accessories.^[8][9] Pipe sales were the most profitable part of his business. Little by little, soldiers became the store's best customers.^[8]

When they left Paris at the end of the conflict, Jean Cassegrain diversified.^[8] In the 1950s, he introduced the world's first luxury leather-covered pipes^[4] which featured exotic leathers.^[8] International celebrities such as Elvis Presley loved them.^[10]

Jean Cassegrain created his company, called 'Jean Cassegrain et compagnie', to broaden the distribution of his leather-covered items for smokers. However, the products were marketed under another name. Since distant relatives had already used his family name Cassegrain to sell fine paper in Paris,^[11][12] he named his brand after the Parisian Longchamp Racecourse.

At that time, there was a flour mill visible on the outskirts of Paris, at the end of the Longchamp Racecourse’s final furlong.^[11] Jean Cassegrain named his brand et renamed his company after the racecourse as a nod to the flour mill, as the name ‘Cassegrain’ literally means ‘crush grain’ (miller) in French.^[9] Hence a jockey on a galloping race horse was chosen as a logo.^[2][13][14]

1950s to 1980s

Longchamp's success with leather-covered pipes convinced Cassegrain that the firm's future lay in diversifying and expanding its product line to small leather goods, passport covers, wallets, bags and other leather accessories for men.^[8][9]

In the early 1950s, he was already prospecting and selling on all continents.^[5][9] He hired an export manager and began exporting his products.^[4]

Jean and his son Philippe Cassegrain were interested in expanding the company's markets and opportunities.^[4] Longchamp opened boutiques in Southeast Asia towards the end of the 1970s^[8] and was one of the first European brands to be sold in Singapore, Hong Kong and Japan.^[15] Longchamp turned into a worldwide business.^[10]

Company's first women's handbag

The company's breakthrough came with the use of nylon in the 1970s, the first company to make bags out of nylon.^[9] Longchamp created a leather and nylon luggage collection, allowing for lightweight luggage, contrary to the overweight suitcases typically sold at the time. This innovation led the company to design a women's handbag in the same design, Le Pliage, a few decades later. The Philippe Cassegrain sketched a line of bags in khaki nylon and leather in the 1970s. This collection was an alternative to carrying heavy suitcases and became a wide success.^[16] Philippe Cassegrain also invented the Xtra-Bag, a bag that folded down to a quarter of its size and slid into a simple case.^[16] The Xtra-bag was the predecessor of the Le Pliage handbag.

As the business expanded, Jean Cassegrain noticed that women had become interested in handbags.^[9] Longchamp launched its first women's handbag in 1971 by reworking a toiletry case and adding a shoulder strap and two flaps.^[9] From that time on, the company began focusing on luggage and women's handbags.^[4][17]

In 1978, Longchamp introduced the LM line, its first women's handbags collection.^[5][9] The bags were created from printed leather. Items for smokers disappeared from the catalogue the same year.^[12]

In 1983, Philippe became Longchamp's CEO.^[10] He brought his wife, Michèle, into the company to run the retail side.^[10] In 1991, Philippe and Michèle's eldest son, Jean, came to work with his father.^[10] Later, their daughter, Sophie, became the company's artistic director.^[10]

1990s to present

1993 was a turning point in Longchamp's history. In 1993, Philippe Cassegrain, Longchamp's CEO, personally designed what would become the company's most famous handbag: Le Pliage, which means ‘folding’ in French. Philippe Cassegrain wanted to create a practical yet stylish fold-up bag.^[18] The Le Pliage is a handbag that folds into a distinctive trapezoidal shape, evoking the image of an envelope. To keep the bag very light, Philippe Cassegrain combined Russia leather handles with a nylon canvas body.^[19] The bag's simple shape and wide range of colors and styles, make it the brand's most successful product^[11][20] and one of the most popular handbags in the world.^[10][18]

Newbury Street (Longchamp) Boston Back Bay store USA

Longchamp has collaborated with designers and artists such as Tracey Emin, Mary Katrantzou, Jeremy Scott and Sarah Morris to reinterpret its collection of Le Pliage totes.^[1][11]

To celebrate its 70th anniversary, in September 2018 the brand put on its first fashion show in New York during Fashion Week.^[21] Among the celebrities present were Kendall Jenner, Kate Moss, Kaia Gerber and Isabelle Huppert.^[22]

Kendall Jenner was named ambassador of Longchamp in April 2018.^[23][24][25] In May 2018, she appeared in a short film, "The Encounter", directed for the brand by John Christopher Pina.^[26]

In February 2019, the brand unveiled its fall-winter 2019 collection at a new show on Wall Street in New York.^[27]

In August 2020, Longchamp launched Green District, its first line of bags designed from recycled nylon fiber “Econyl”.^[28]

Corporate structure

Longchamp is currently run and managed by the 3rd generation of the family, direct descendants of Jean Cassegrain, founder:^[10]

• Jean Cassegrain, Chief Executive Officer^[6]
• Sophie Delafontaine, Artistic director^[6][29]
• Olivier Cassegrain, Director USA boutiques^[29]

Michèle Cassegrain, Director of boutiques, died in November 2016.^{[citation needed]}

Longchamp is valued at $1.5 billion.^[7] The company's independence gives the Cassegrain family stability and allows them to think and plan long-term.^[9] Longchamp is one of the last remaining family-owned leather goods manufacturers in France.^[13]

Philippe Cassegrain has died on November 28, 2020 aged 83 from Covid-19 complications.^[30]

Collaborations

In the 1950s and 1960s, Longchamp's products appeared in French cinema and particularly in Jean Gabin's films.^[8]

The brand's relationship to art continued in the 1970s when they introduced a limited edition series of bags featuring a design by the famous Franco-Russian artist Serge Mendjisky.^[5] In 1971, he added leather patchwork to bags.^[12] With this invention, Longchamp was one of the first leather goods brands to enter the world of collaborations with famous artists. Since then, they have continued to work with other artists in designing special products and in store installations.^[5]

In 2004, Longchamp began its first collaboration with independent designer, Thomas Heatherwick.^[31] Heatherwick first designed the best-selling Zip Bag, a handbag constructed of a long zipper.^[12][31] The success of the Zip Bag led to Heatherwick's designing of the Longchamp's New York City flagship store.^[31]

In 2004 and 2005 Tracey Emin personalized luggage for Longchamp.^[12] Tracey Emin realized a patchwork Longchamp bag featuring the message ‘Me Every Time’.^[11]

Jeremy Scott has regularly designed special editions of Le Pliage tote since 2005^[32] as well as other collections of handbags every year.^[10]

In 2008, Longchamp reissued its LM collection,^[33] offering a version illustrated by Jean-Luc Moerman.^[12]

In 2009, Jeremy Scott, Charles Anastase and design duo Bless joined forces to celebrate 20 years of the French association ANDAM (Association Nationale pour le Développement des Arts de la Mode), which promotes emerging French and international fashion talent. For the occasion, each of the designers created limited edition variations of Longchamp's Le Pliage handbag. "Le Pliage bag is a French icon, no different from the croissant or the Eiffel tower. It is chic, sophisticated and handsome all in one" said Jeremy Scott.^[34]

Between 2005 and 2015, Jeremy Scott created 20 styles of bags.^[35] Each year, he has taken one of his pop culture-infused designs and used it to give Longchamp's Le Pliage a new look. His designs over the past 10 years have included a poodle in space, zodiac signs, a credit card and tire tracks. The limited-edition of handbags created for the 10th anniversary of his partnership with Longchamp featured a postcard from Hollywood, signed by the designer "Wish you were here".^[36]

Kate Moss collaborated with the brand to design handbags. She first suggested adding a red lining to the Legende bag.^[37] The top model then worked with Longchamp artistic director Sophie Delafontaine and released bags under the label "Kate Moss for Longchamp".^[38] In 2010, she launched a whole product line, based on her own use of handbags.^[10][39][40] The Kate Moss collection was made up of 12 different bags inspired by her "city living".^[41] The bags were named after her favorite places in London: Soho, Ladbroke, Goldbourne, Gloucester, Glastonbury.^[42]

In 2011, Longchamp teamed up with designer Mary Katrantzou to create a range of printed tote bags.^[43] They featured her trompe-l'œil fabrics.^[43] The designer's bags were inspired by temples in Vietnam and flower parades, and featured bold colors and wild designs.^[44] In 2012, the designer created two handbags bearing exclusive new prints.^[45] The larger tote bag was decorated with orchids, dragons and corals.^[45] For the smaller one, the designer used both an Asian temple and New York's Carnegie Hall as her starting points, adorning both with colorful flowers and lanterns.^[45] Mary Katrantzou also designed a Le Pliage handbag featuring orchids and lanterns.^[45]

In 2014, Longchamp partnered with artist Sarah Morris to create a limited edition of Le Pliage handbags.^[19]

In April 2016, Longchamp has begun renovations of its historical store on rue Saint-Honoré in Paris. While works take place, the storefront is wrapped in a spectacular work of art "Mindscapes" by American artist, Ryan McGinness.

In 2017, Longchamp began an association with the Franco-Armenian artist Vahram Muratyan.^[46][47]

In 2018, Longchamp aligned with Shayne Oliver, the founder of New York-based streetwear Hood By Air, to develop an exclusive capsule collection of leather goods, footwear, ready-to-wear garments and garment bags for SS18.^[25][21][48]

In September 2020, during Paris Fashion Week, Longchamp presents a collaboration with Pokemon for the Le Pliage line. The character Pikachu appears with a jockey bomb, in reference to the history of the company. The brand is also present in the Pokemon Go game, in which players may customize their avatar with a virtual Longchamp backpack.^[49]

Production

Initially, Jean Cassegrain purchased items for smokers (particularly pipes) and had them covered with leather by Parisian craftsmen.^[12] Faced with the brand's success, and to support the diversification of the products offered, he opened Longchamp's first workshop in Segré, France, in 1959 .^[8][12]

The company's production capacity increased regularly in Segré and through new facilities: Rémalard in 1969, Ernée in 1972, then Combrée, Château-Gontier^[50] and Montournais in the 2000s.^[12] Longchamp continues to manufacture its products in France^[51] through its own workshops^[4][8] and owns the largest leather manufacture in France.^[18] Six French factories provide half of the handbags sold by the company, with the other half created by partners.^[52]

Longchamp is currently building its new production site in Pouzauges, France, with plans to move its leather workshops, currently based in Montournais, to this new site. This project is part of the company's plans to develop and modernize its production process. This new site, which measures approximately 7000 square meters, will have space for 100 people (compared to 70 currently) and will include a learning workshop to support the training and the integration of new staff. This new production site should open in 2018.^[53]

The company manufactures most of its products, except its ready-to-wear clothing and shoes collections, which it has produced by expert manufacturers located mainly in France and Italy.^[15]

In September 2018, Longchamp inaugurated a new 7,000 sqm production site at Pouzauges, in the Vendée region. This is the company's sixth workshop in France. This new production unit also includes a training facility attached to the workshop.^[54]

In 2018, half of the brand's production was carried out in France. The company employs 900 people in its workshops located in the west of France.

Boutiques

In 2013, Longchamp invested in logistics to support company growth.^[7][55] The company built a 23,000 m2 logistics center in Segré, France. This facility is double the size of the company's previous facilities.^[55]

The company relies on an international distribution network and sells an extensive range of products.^[9]

The brand has a presence in 80 countries^[56] including in Brazil,^[4][15] Israel, Abu Dhabi,^[51] Peru, Chile, Paraguay, Canada, Austria, Macao, Cambodia, Dubai, Kuala Lumpur,^[5] Thailand, Philippines, Indonesia...^[15] Longchamp plans to expand its network across the Middle-East region with a focus on Saudi Arabia and Qatar.^[5] The company has also franchised shops in Mexico, Venezuela and Colombia.^[4]

In 2018, Longchamp had 1,500 points of sale worldwide, of which 300 are proprietary stores. A total of 3,200 people work for the brand worldwide^{[23][57][8][14]} through company-owned boutiques and franchises, department store concessions, multi-brand fine leather goods dealers, airport shops and online sales, through 20 distribution subsidiaries.^[5][17]

North America

Store on Madison Avenue

In the US, Longchamp has been distributed through retailers since the 1950s.^[4] The company opened its first US store on Madison Avenue in 1984.^[7] Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom were the first major American retailers to carry the brand, followed by Bloomingdale's.^[4] In 1993, Longchamp set up its own office in New York City to grow the business.^[4]

In 2006, the company opened a flagship store, "La Maison Unique" in New York City's SoHo district.^[58] This store was the brand's biggest store and was designed by Thomas Heatherwick^[31] who also created a handbag called the Zip Bag, which became one of the company's best selling items.^[31]

In 2014, Longchamp had 17 stores in North America.^[59]

In April 2018, Longchamp inaugurated a new store on 5th Avenue in New York.^[29][25][60] The brand also opened a store in Beverly Hills, California.^[61]

Europe

In 1988, Longchamp opened its first dedicated boutique in Paris, France, at 390 rue Saint-Honoré.^[12] By 1999, the Paris boutique moved to 404 rue Saint-Honoré to expand its sales floor.

In 2013, Longchamp opened a boutique on Regent Street, London, which became the company's largest store in Europe and the second largest in the world after New York City.^[51][15]

In December 2014, the company opened a larger boutique on the Champs-Élysées in Paris.^[13] The store has 500 square meters of retail space split into two levels^[13] and is now Longchamp's largest store in Europe.^[56] This flagship store houses the brand's entire leatherwear range of accessories for men and women, as well as luggage, women's "ready-to-wear" clothing and shoes. This boutique features a wall of Longchamp's famous Le Pliage handbags^[62] and attracts Parisians and tourists from around the world.^[56]

Longchamp is present in major European cities, including London, Rome, Barcelona, Munich^[17] and Vienna.^[13]

Asia

Longchamp has been present in mainland China since 2006.^[2]

In 2011, Longchamp opened a new flagship store in Hong Kong, "La Maison 8". This boutique is the company's second largest in the world (after the SoHo location).^[63] A year later, Longchamp opened seven additional stores in China including in Beijing and Shanghai, making a total of 50 stores.^[64]

The company also operated 22 stores in Southeast Asia in 2014. These shops accounted for 10% of global sales.^[65]

In October 2017, Longchamp inaugurated its largest Asian boutique on Omotesando Avenue in Tokyo.^[29] The store is spread out over seven floors and displays all of the collections, to include luggage, ready-to-wear, shoes and leather goods.^[66] A fresco by Australian artist John Aslanidis is featured on part of the building.^[67]

In 2018, the brand joined forces with the Chinese blogger Tao Liang, known as Mr. Bags, to design a capsule collection.^[68] Longchamp has 18 stores in China and is preparing to launch its Chinese e-commerce site in 2019.^[69]

See also

• Leather crafting

References

1. 
   

"Handbag maker Longchamp launches Regent Street store". The Telegraph. 2013.

"French handbag maker Longchamp sees more potential in China". Reuters. 2014.

"Company Overview of Longchamp S.A.S." Bloomberg. 2015.

"Longchamp's Evolution". Leader's Mag. 2013.

"Jean Cassegrain, CEO, Longchamp". Business Inside. 2015.

"Longchamp SAS France". Bloomberg. 2015.

"Longchamp Mints A New Billionaire Fashion Family Thanks To Iconic Handbags". Forbes. 2013.

"Longchamp: just for the pleasure of it". Isbn Magazine.

"Longchamp: 'We Have Always Been in the Spirit of the Moment'". Success.com. 2015.

"Longchamp: the family behind the world's favourite bags". The Telegraph. 2015.

"The Longchamp connection: leather ties that bind". Brw.com. 2012. Archived from the original on 2016-03-04. Retrieved 2016-04-21.

Aucouturier, Marie (2008). Longchamp (in French). Éditions de la Martinière. ISBN 978-2732437767.

"Longchamp CEO expects sales growth to double this year". Reuters. 2014.

"Longchamp handbag sales reach record levels". Fashion mag. 2010.

"Longchamp CEO Jean Cassegrain: "The whole world walks down Regent Street"". Fashion Mag. 2013.

"Longchamp". Vogue. 2015.

"Longchamp opens flagship on Champs-Élysées". Fashion Mag. 2014.

"There's a Reason this Travel Bag Has Sold 20 Million Pieces Worldwide". Inquirer.net. 2015.

"Longchamp Celebrates 20 Years of Iconic Le Pliage Bag With Luxury Collection". Forbes. 2014.

Martin-Bernard, Frédéric (30 March 2013). "Le Pliage de Longchamp : un sac mythique". Marie Claire. Retrieved 17 April 2012.

"Longchamp to Stage First Fashion Show in New York". WWD. 2018.

"Longchamp marks 70 years with its first runway show". CTV News. 2018.

"Longchamp makes New York debut to celebrate 70 years". France 24. 2018.

"Longchamp marks 70 years with its first runway show". AP News. 2018.

"Longchamp Taps Kendall Jenner, Shayne Oliver and Fifth Avenue to Court U.S. Consumers". Forbes. 2018.

"A second encounter for Kendall Jenner and Longchamp's majestic horse". Fashion Network. 2018.

"Longchamp serves up jet-set style for Fall/Winter 2019". Fashion Network. 2019.

"Longchamp Goes Green With New Eco-Friendly Collection Made From Regenerated Nylon". L'Officiel. 2020.

"Furla and Longchamp: Quiet Success Stories". New York Times. 2017.

"Longchamp President Philippe Cassegrain Dies of COVID-19 Complications". WWD. 2020.

"Thomas Heatherwick". Design museum. Archived from the original on 2016-01-05. Retrieved 2016-04-21.

Maléfant, Roxanne (28 October 2010). "Jeremy Scott donne un coup de jeune au pliage de Longchamp". Elle. Retrieved 17 April 2012.

"Longchamp, 60 ans, ça se fête !". Elle. 1 August 2008. Retrieved 17 April 2012.

"Birthday Bags". Vogue. 2009.

"Jeremy Scott For Longchamp 10th Anniversary". Vogue. 2015.

"Longchamp looks back on decade-long Jeremy Scott partnership". Luxury Daily. 2015.

"Kate Moss designs for Longchamp". Elle. 18 January 2010.

"Kate Moss designs for Longchamp". Vogue. 2010.

"Kate Moss for Longchamp exclusive". Vogue. 2010.

"Kate Launches London". Vogue. 2010.

"Hands On Kate". Vogue. 2010.

"Kate Moss launches bag collection for Longchamp". The Telegraph. 2010.

"Longchamp reports full-year sales increase". Drapers. 2012.

"We love Mary Katrantzou's Longchamp collection". The Huffington Post. 2012.

"Katrantzou Collaboration". Vogue. 2012.

"Longchamp Gets Graphic Spin with Vahram Muratyan Collaboration". Businessoffashion.com. 2017.

"Longchamp collaborates with Vahram Muratyan". Fashionunited. 2017.

"Sophie Delafontaine on Jeremy Scott and Growing Up Longchamp". Fashion Week Daily. 2018.

"I Choose You: Check Out The Entire Longchamp x Pokémon Collection Here". L'Officiel. 2020.

Nagard, Alan (14 February 2012). "Les sacs de luxe Longchamp échappent à la crise". Ouest-France. Retrieved 4 December 2012.

"Longchamp Outpaces Vuitton by Sticking to Value-for-Money Luxury". Bloomberg. 2013.

"Regent Street's Longchamp store offers worldwide showcase". Retaildetail.eu. 2013.

"Longchamp to open new French workshop". Drapersonline.com. 2016.

"The leather products manufacturer Longchamp is inaugurating his sixth workshop in France and site". Manchikoni.com.

"Longchamp reports 16% increase in revenue". Fashion Mag. 2013.

"Luxury brand Longchamp heads to Paris' Champs-Elysees". Fashion Mag. 2014.

"Longchamp makes New York debut to celebrate 70 years". ABS CBN News. 2018.

"Company Overview of Longchamp USA, Inc". Bloomberg. 2015.

"Why 64-year-old French luxe brand Longchamp is finally getting a big Paris flagship". Fortune. 2014.

"Longchamp to Open Flagship Store on Fifth Avenue". Wall Street Journal. 2018.

"Longchamp's Plan to Stay Competitive Amid Luxury Consolidation". www.businessoffashion.com. 2018.

"The Longchamp Flagship Store Opening in Paris and a Preen Dinner in London". Vogue. 2014.

Garnier, Juliette (8 February 2012). "Les ventes de Longchamp bondissent de 22 %". La Tribune. Retrieved 4 December 2012.

"Longchamp eyes China expansion". Thelocal.fr. 2013.

"Longchamp exec labels South East Asia a "half China" with explosive middle class". Luxury Daily. 2014.

"Exclusive: Longchamp Unveils Plans for Tokyo Flagship and Headquarters". WWD. 2017.

"Longchamp Arrives in Fashionable Omotesando". Prestigeonline.com. 2017.

"Longchamp celebrates Chinese New Year with Mr. Bags". Fashion Network. 2018.

69. "Luxury brand Longchamp sets its eyes on China". China Daily. 2017.

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Longchamp (company).

Authority control
International	VIAF
National	Germany United States

Categories:

• 1950s fashion
• 1960s fashion
• 1970s fashion
• 1980s fashion
• 1990s fashion
• 2000s fashion
• 2010s fashion
• Bags (fashion)
• Clothing brands of France
• Fashion accessory companies
• High fashion brands
• Luxury brands
• Retail companies established in 1948
• Eyewear brands of France

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Longchamp_(company)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Not to be confused with Sports bra.

A Fruit of the Loom training bra

A training bra (also trainer bra, starter bra, or first bra) is a lightweight brassiere designed for girls who have begun to develop breasts, at Tanner stage II and III. The training bra is intended to be worn during puberty when the breasts are not yet large enough to fit a standard-sized bra. Training bras often provide minimal or no support, and may serve aesthetic purposes to fulfill cultural norms and local beauty standards.^{[citation needed]}

Training bras are usually made of a lightweight material. They are unlined and feature a soft, elastic bra band and soft bra cups. Some have begun wearing sports bras, which are similar in construction, as their first bra.^[1] Prior to the marketing of training bras in the 1960s, a preteen or young teen in Western countries usually wore a camisole.

Receiving one's first bra may be seen as a long-awaited rite of passage in one's life,^[2][3][4] signifying one's coming of age.^[5][6][7][8] Bras for pre-teens and those entering puberty were first marketed during the early 20th century,^[9] and sales spiked in the 1950s and 1960s.^[10]

Styles

Training bras are usually a lightweight, soft-cup design, unlined, and may resemble a crop top. They are often made of a mixed cotton spandex or cotton Lycra fabric with thin straps and elastic under the growing breasts to hold the garment in place. Training bras may be sold in small, medium, and large sizes,^[11] and may be used to conceal nipples and breast buds under outerwear.^[12] Some are built into camisoles. They are made in a variety of colors and prints, including lace. As the breasts continue to develop, usually around Tanner stage III, regular bras are available in sizes 30AAA to 38B.^[13] The initial training bras offer little if any actual support.^[11] Some styles are padded to hide developing breast buds or to increase the perceived size of the breasts.^[11]

History

Prior to the 1950s, girls in Western countries typically wore undershirts until their breasts were large enough to fit an adult bra. During the 1940s and 1950s, Western media created a "mammary fixation" that shaped teen perceptions of breast size. Boys noticed girls who were more "busty," and particularly American girls were more aware of breast size and their weight.^[10] Popular American culture in the 1950s was notable for its focus on full-breasted women like Lana Turner and Jane Russell.^[14][15] The emphasis on the female figure came from several sources: girls wanted bras at an earlier age than ever before, while their mothers felt they should help their daughters develop a "good" figure; doctors who valued maternity over all other female roles; and companies who saw a profit in persuading girls and their parents that adolescent breasts needed support.^[10] In some social circles, a girl's ability to fill a bra became central to her status and sense of self.^[10]

During the 1950s, doctors in the United States wrote that teen girls needed to wear a bra to prevent sagging breasts, poor circulation, and stretched blood vessels.^[10] In magazines like Seventeen and Compact, adolescent girls were encouraged to purchase undergarments like "Bobbie" bras, Formfit girdles, and "Adagio" by Maidenform that were "teen-proportioned".^[10]

It became common in the 1950s for pre-teen girls in the United States to begin wearing training bras even though their breasts were too small to actually require support.^[6] The American Academy of Pediatricians published Puberty: Information for Boys and Girls in 2002. In it, they advised girls:^[16]

As your breasts develop, you may need a bra. Some girls feel that wearing a bra for the first time is exciting—it is the first step toward becoming a woman! However, some girls feel embarrassed, especially if they are among the first of their friends to need a bra. If the people around you make a bigger deal of your first bra than you would like, try to remember that they do not mean to embarrass you, they are just proud of how much you have grown. [original emphasis]

The author points out that young girls are socialized to be more concerned about what other people think about their wearing a bra rather than their own feelings.^[16] As a result, young girls may be anxious to acquire their first training bra before their breasts actually need support, if only for social purposes. Girls are then faced with the challenge of keeping current and wearing the latest, fashionable bra. Some young girls avoid wearing a bra, fearing an end to their childhood freedoms, such as going topless. Girls who develop breasts earlier than their peers may be sensitive to comments and teasing. Because bras are built to manufacturers' standards, if the girl's body does not conform to the shape and size of the bra, she may blame herself.^[3]

Firm, upright breasts are typical of youth.^[17] As such, they may not physically require the support of a bra. A pencil test, developed by Ann Landers, has sometimes been promoted as a criterion to determine whether a girl should begin wearing a bra: a pencil is placed under the breast, and if it stays in place by itself, then wearing a bra is recommended; if it falls to the ground, it is not.^[18][19]

Oleg Cassini made a provocative "Room at the Top Bra" in nylon and Lycra spandex for Peter Pan. In the early 1960s, bra makers marketed to girls 13–19, and later in '60s they targeted pre-teen girls age 10–12. New labels like Teenform, Teencharm, and Heaventeen catered to their market. Some companies' advertisements showed girls waist up wearing only a bra. Mercy Dobell, editor of Corset and Underwear Review, wrote that "the bra has joined lipstick and 'heels' in becoming one of the beloved symbols of growing up."^[20]: 151 Mass media encourages teens and tweens to begin wearing lingerie at a younger age, before or as soon as their breasts begin to develop, as a way to advertise their sexuality.^[3]

The Debevoise Company in 1904 ran an advertisement for the "bosom supporter" and named it "brassiere" for the New York advertisement copy. The term brassiere is a Norman French word to describe a child's undershirt.^[21] Two weeks after the advertisement, the Norman French term "brassiere" became popular in the United States of America.^[21]

Social issues

The design of some training bras do not provide actual support of any kind, and may serve aesthetic purposes to fulfill cultural norms and local beauty standards.^[22]

Young pubescent girls may have ambivalent feelings around the experience of buying and wearing their first bra. Some girls avoid wearing a bra because it means they must deal with teasing and other issues with the onset of puberty. Other girls welcome the experience of being able to show the appearance of a bra through their clothes.^[23]

The young girl may feel pressured to wear a bra before she actually needs any support so she can "fit in". Once she begins to wear a bra, she may also be pressured to wear clothing that makes her appear older than she is.^[3] Girls may experience the opportunity to begin wearing a bra with mixed feelings. On one hand, they may feel "grown up", but with that status comes a host of expectations about keeping up with the latest styles or colors. Some girls hesitate to accept that some of their childhood freedoms, like going without a shirt or engaging in certain kinds of boyish activities, may be ending.^[3]

Some girls are embarrassed about wearing a bra and resist parental pressure to take this step, turning the event into a potentially traumatic experience. If a girl is one of the first or one of the last among her peers to begin wearing a bra, she may be teased. Some welcome and others dislike the new attention they receive because they are wearing a bra. Because bras are mass-produced to fit industry standards, a young girl may not understand that an ill-fitting bra is not her fault and may blame herself, thinking something is wrong with her body.^[3]

Opposition to training bras

Training bras and the age at which girls first wear bras is sometimes controversial. Some people regard training bras as a way to sexualize young girls, and that training bras serve no functional purpose, that businesses benefit financially from, and even encourage, precocious sexuality in girls by exploiting their fears about self-image and social norms.^[10] Still, others recognize developing tissue in breasts as sensitive and, at times, needing cover to maintain comfort, even if only psychological, for the wearer.^[24]

Bra opponents believe that training bras are used to indoctrinate girls into thinking about their breasts as sexual objects. In their view, bras are not functional undergarments but simply exist to make the body more sexually appealing.^[25] They believe that training bras exploit young girls and encourage precocious sexuality.^[26]

Within Western cultures that place great value upon youth, bras are marketed to emphasize their ability to preserve a youthful appearance. The design of fashionable rather than solely functional bras^[27] has been influenced by changing fashions in outerwear and undergarments. The bra is sometimes viewed as an icon of popular culture that eroticizes girls' breasts as sexual objects.^[3]

Marketing to young girls

This section needs to be updated. Please help update this article to reflect recent events or newly available information. (June 2023)

In 2006, Target stores began stocking Bratz bras and others for 3- to 4-year-olds, Saddle Club bras for 4- to 6-year-olds, and a padded Target brand bra for 8- to 10-year-olds. In the same year, Bonds released the "My First T-Shirt Bra", aimed at girls aged 8 and up, with Australian retailer Big W adding a Just Girls padded bra for 8- to 10-year-olds and a My Little Pony-themed bra for 2- to 3-year-olds around the same time. A Sydney clothing company called Hot Springs offers Lil' Bratz themed "tiny" bras.^[28]

See also

• Bralette

References

1. 
   

"Breasts and Bras (for Kids) - Nemours KidsHealth". Kidshealth.org. Retrieved 7 January 2022.

"Why Millennials are going braless (the reasons might surprise you)". Chicago Sun-Times. May 21, 2018. Retrieved 15 September 2018.

Mitchell, Claudia A.; Reid-Walsh, Jacqueline (2008). "Bra". Girl Culture: An Encyclopedia, Volume 1. Greenwood. pp. 198–199. ISBN 978-0-313-33909-7.

"Buying Your Preteen Her First Bra". TweenParent.com. Archived from the original on 8 November 2011. Retrieved 17 November 2011.

DeSantis, Violette. "The First Bra". Retrieved 12 February 2009.

Pitts-Taylor, Victoria (2008). Cultural Encyclopedia of the Body. Westport, Connecticut: Greenwood Press. p. 43. ISBN 978-0-313-34146-5.

"Teen Girl's First Bra". lovetoknow.com. Retrieved July 7, 2010.

DeSantis, Violette. "The First Bra". Retrieved 12 February 2009.

Ro, Christine (2020-03-18). "How Training Bras Constructed American Girlhood". JSTOR Daily. Retrieved 2020-03-18.

Brumberg, Joan Jacobs (1998). The Body Project: An Intimate History of American Girls. p. 336. ISBN 0-679-73529-1. Archived from the original on March 28, 2002.

"Training Bra Shopping Tips". AOL Shipping. Retrieved July 9, 2010.

"Why A Training Bra Is So Important". LoveOfLingerie.com. Retrieved 17 November 2011.

"Teen Bras". HerRoom.com. Retrieved 17 November 2011.

Herbst, Philip (2001). Wimmin, wimps & wallflowers: an encyclopaedic dictionary of gender and sexual orientation bias in the United States. Intercultural Press. p. 122. ISBN 978-1-877864-80-3. Sweater girl.

Ostler, Rosemarie (2005). Dewdroppers, waldos, and slackers: a decade-by-decade guide to the vanishing vocabulary of the twentieth century. Oxford University Press US. p. 85. ISBN 978-0-19-518254-5.

Kopala, Mary; Keitel, Merle A. (2003). Handbook of Counseling Women. Thousand Oaks, California: Sage Publications. p. 249. ISBN 978-0-7619-2640-5.

Gallant, Ann (1978). Body treatments and dietetics for the beauty therapist. Cheltenham, UK: Stanley Thomas Publishers. ISBN 978-0-85950-401-0.

West, Richard (June 1975). "Texas Monthly Reporter: Low Talk". Texas Monthly. Emmis Communications: 12. ISSN 0148-7736. Retrieved 22 February 2011.

"Vanity fair". 58. January 1995: 108. Retrieved 22 February 2011.

Farrell-Beck, Jane; Gau, Colleen (22 October 2002). Uplift: The Bra in America (illustrated ed.). University of Pennsylvania Press. ISBN 978-0-8122-1835-0. Retrieved 20 January 2011.

"Brassiere | Encyclopedia.com". Encyclopedia.com. Retrieved 7 January 2022.

"Science Proves That Wearing Bras Is Bad For Your Health". Lifehack.org. 25 November 2015. Retrieved 7 January 2022.

Puri, Jyoti (1999). Women, Body, Desire in Post-colonial India: Narratives of Gender and Sexuality. New York: Routledge. ISBN 0-415-92128-7.

"Developing Breast". Retrieved 29 June 2011.

Young, Iris Marion (27 January 2005). On Female Body Experience: "Throwing Like a Girl" and Other Essays. USA: Oxford University Press. p. 192. ISBN 978-0-19-516192-2.

"Bra Styles, Colors, and Types". Archived from the original on 30 July 2012. Retrieved 14 November 2011.

Baker, Sandra. "The Artful Bras Project". Archived from the original on March 3, 2009. Retrieved 14 March 2009.

28. "Sexy, Sassy, Still in Primary School". Sydney Morning Herald. 23 December 2006. Retrieved 1 February 2011.

v t e Lingerie

Categories:

• 1950s fashion
• 20th-century fashion
• Brassieres
• Children's underwear
• Undergarments

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Training_bra

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

This article needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Double-breasted" – news · newspapers · books · scholar · JSTOR (February 2019) (Learn how and when to remove this template message)

A grey striped six-on-one double-breasted suit with jetted pockets, a style popular in the 1980s

A double-breasted garment is a coat, jacket, waistcoat, or dress with wide, overlapping front flaps which has on its front two symmetrical columns of buttons; by contrast, a single-breasted item has a narrow overlap and only one column of buttons.

Basic design and variations

Single- and double-breasted jackets

A double-breasted open-front tailcoat

On most modern double-breasted coats, one column of buttons is decorative, while the other is functional. The other buttons, placed on the outside edge of the coat breast, allow the overlap to fasten reversibly, left lapel over right lapel. To strengthen the fastening, a functional inner-button, called the jigger (or anchor button), is usually added to parallel-fasten the over-lapped layers together from the inside.^[1]

Double-breasted suit jackets, sports jackets and blazers typically have one to four rows of buttons (each row containing two buttons), one or two of the rows functional. Each fastening method is identified using "number-on-number" terminology; the first number is the total number of front buttons, the second is the number of fastening buttons below the lapels (i.e. the second number also is the number of corresponding buttonholes). Six-on-two and six-on-one (as shown in the picture on the right) are the common button stances, but others exist. Stylistically, double-breasted suit jackets usually have peaked lapels, and fasten left lapel over right lapel as usual for men's jackets. Some may find that six buttons overwhelms their shorter torso, a four- or six-button configuration in which only the bottom one fastens may be a better option. The four-button double-breasted jacket that buttons at the lower button is often called the "Kent", after the man who made it popular—Prince George, Duke of Kent.^[2]

History

Double-breasted was the norm for frock coats during the 19th century. The early lounge suits that started to arrive around the turn of the 20th century tended to be single-breasted. Ever since, single-breasted has been the norm for suit jackets, but double-breasted suit jackets were popular from the mid-1930s until the late 1950s, and again from the mid-1980s to the early 2000s.

By the mid-2000s, men's double-breasted jackets were not as popular in the United States, and it was difficult to find them at many retail clothing stores. However, they continued to be popular in the United Kingdom, and in America were produced for and advocated by the high-end menswear lines of Joseph Abboud and Ralph Lauren, as well as by bespoke tailors such as Thomas Mahon.^[3]

The trench coat is also traditionally double-breasted, single-breasted versions being civilian interpretations of the original military-derived fashion. Other coat styles typically featuring a double-breasted construction are the Guards Coat and the greatcoat styles of overcoats. The Chesterfield coat may be found in either single or double-breasted.

References

1. 
   

Staff, The ForbesLife (5 September 2008). "The Stature Suit". Forbes.

Patterson, Troy (2017-08-24). "Five nontraditional double breasted suits and how to find them". Bloomberg.com.

3. Mahon, Thomas. "Fashion, Who Cares?" English Cut, June 25, 2005. Accessed January 9, 2010. [1] Archived 2015-04-02 at the Wayback Machine

v t e Clothing

Categories:

• 1930s fashion
• 1940s fashion
• 1950s fashion
• 1980s fashion
• 1990s fashion
• 2000s fashion
• Jackets
• Coats (clothing)
• Lounge jackets

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double-breasted

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

(Redirected from Varsity jacket)

See also: Varsity letter

In sports or activities in the United States, a letterman is a high school or college student who has met a specified level of participation or performance on a varsity team.

Overview

This section does not cite any sources. Please help improve this section by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Letterman" sports – news · newspapers · books · scholar · JSTOR (March 2021) (Learn how and when to remove this template message)

Traditional block letter with embroidered mascot

The term comes from the practice of awarding each such participant a cloth "letter", which is usually the school's initial or initials, for placement on a "letter sweater" or "letter jacket" intended for the display of such an award. In some instances, the sweater or jacket itself may also be awarded, especially for the initial award to a given individual. Today, in order to distinguish "lettermen" from other team participants, schools often establish a minimum level of participation in a team's events or a minimum level of performance in order for a letter to be awarded. A common threshold in American football and basketball is participation in a set level, often half, of all quarters in a season. In individual sports such as tennis and golf, the threshold for lettering is generally participation in one half or sometimes two-thirds of all matches contested. Frequently, other members of the team who fail to meet requirements for a letter are awarded a certificate of participation or other award considered to be of lesser value than a letter.

Some schools continue to base the awarding of letters according to performance, in team sports requiring a certain number of touchdowns, catches, scores, steals, baskets or tackles, according to position and sport. In individual sports letters are often determined according to qualification for state meets or tournaments. Other schools award letters on a more subjective basis, with the head coach, usually with the input of other coaches and sometimes student team leaders who have already lettered, awarding letters for substantial improvement as well as significant performance on or off the field. This places much more emphasis on character, commitment and teamwork as well as, and often in place of, simply playing enough or meeting some other time or performance requirement. Sometimes in high schools academic performance in classes can also be an element. This philosophy gives more focus to developing and rewarding a well-rounded and balanced player, where other methods focus strictly on athletic performance and on the field victories. This term is not gender-specific; a qualifying participant in women's basketball or other women's sports is properly referred to as a letterman, as would be a qualifying female participant on a co-educational sports team. An athlete who is awarded a letter (or letters in multiple sports) is said to have "lettered" when they receive their letter.

In recent years, some schools have expanded the concept of letterman beyond sports, providing letters for performance in performing arts, academics, or other school activities.

Letter jacket

This section needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources in this section. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Find sources: "Letterman" sports – news · newspapers · books · scholar · JSTOR (April 2015) (Learn how and when to remove this template message)

A student wearing a wool baseball jacket with embroidered letter "W" and award medals.

A letter jacket is a baseball-styled jacket traditionally worn by high school and college students in the United States to represent school and team pride as well as to display personal awards earned in athletics, academics or activities. Letter jackets are also known as "letterman jackets", "varsity jackets" and "baseball jackets" in reference to their American origins.

Appearance and style

The body (i.e., torso) is usually of boiled wool and the sleeves of leather with banded wrists and waistband. Letter jackets are usually produced in the school colors, with the body of the jacket in the school's primary color and sleeves in the secondary color, although sometimes, the colors of the jacket may be customized to a certain extent by the student. There could be cases where a student could change the color so much that it doesn't differentiate too much from school colors. They usually feature a banded collar for men or a top-buttoned hood (that unbuttons into an expanded collar) for women.

Decorations

The letter jacket derives its name from the varsity letter chenille patch on its left breast, which is almost always the first letter or initials of the high school or college the jacket came from. The letter itself can also be custom fitted to the particular sport or activity (e.g. cross country—a symbol or sign in the middle of the letter).

The name of the owner usually appears either in chenille (matching the letter) or embroidered on the jacket itself. The owner's graduation year typically appears in matching chenille. Placement of the name and year of graduation depends on school traditions. The year is most often sewn on the right sleeve or just above the right pocket. The school logo and symbols representing the student's activities may also be ironed onto the jacket.

Lettermen who play on a championship team often receive a large patch commemorating their championship that is worn on the back of the jacket.

Lettermen who participate in a sport in which medals are awarded often sew the medals onto their jackets to display their accomplishments.

History

Varsity jackets trace their origins to letter sweaters, first introduced by the Harvard University baseball team in 1865.^[1] The letter was usually quite large and centered (if the sweater was a pullover); stripes on one sleeve designated the number of letters won, with a star indicating a team captain.

Traditions

Letter jackets are almost never purchased before a student has earned a letter. In schools where only varsity letters are awarded this is usually the practice in a student's junior or senior year. Recently, many student-athletes have been awarded letters during their sophomore and sometimes freshman year, leading to the need for a jacket much sooner. Still, the actual jacket is not usually purchased until the sophomore year. In schools where junior varsity letters are awarded, the jacket may be purchased by junior varsity letter recipients, though the letter is placed just above the left pocket, leaving space for a future varsity letter.

Some schools may award letter jackets to letter winners at an award ceremony, but more often, the school only provides the letter. Some schools will have fundraising activities or other programs to provide jackets to students who cannot afford them.

While it is commonly done, removing one's letter from the letter jacket upon graduation is not firmly held as protocol. Many graduates keep the letter on the jacket after graduation as a symbol of accomplishment and school pride and commitment, especially with college lettermen.

See also

• Sporting colours
  • Blue (university sport)

References

1. 
   

1. Gallagher, Jake. "Dropping Knowledge: The Varsity Jacket". GQ. Retrieved 31 May 2014.

v t e Gridiron football concepts

Categories:

• Jackets
• Terminology used in multiple sports
• College sports
• School terminology

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Letterman_(sports)#Letter_jacket

Clothing label

The classic Fred Perry design

In the late 1940s, Perry was approached by Tibby Wegner, an Austrian footballer who had invented an anti-perspirant device worn around the wrist. Perry made a few changes to create the first sweatband.

Wegner's next idea was to produce a sports shirt, which was to be made from white knitted cotton pique with short sleeves and a buttoned placket like René Lacoste's shirts. Launched at Wimbledon in 1952, the Fred Perry tennis shirt was an immediate success.^[8] Initially it was only available in two colours—white and black.^[121] The brand's logo is a laurel wreath. It was based on the original symbol for Wimbledon.^[8] The logo, which appears on the left breast of Fred Perry garments, is stitched into the fabric of the shirt.^[122]

The white tennis shirt was supplemented in the late 1950s with coloured versions for table tennis, in which white shirts are not allowed. These became popular in the 1960s as a symbol of mod culture. The brand had been associated with skinheads and the National Front in the 1970s.^[123] During the mid-1990s, its popularity in the United Kingdom was revived due to its association with the band Blur.^[124][125] In France, the brand is popular with both the far right and far left.^[126]

The brand was initially run by the Perry family, namely his son David, until it was bought by Japanese company Hit Union in 1995. However, the Perry family continued to work closely with the brand.^[127][128]

The brand was the clothing sponsor of British tennis player Andy Murray from the start of his career until 2009.^[129]

From September 2019,^[130] Perry stopped selling its black and yellow polo shirts across North America after they became the "unofficial uniform" of the far-right organisation Proud Boys,^{[123][131][132]} and called on Proud Boys members to stop wearing their clothing.^[133][134]

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fred_Perry#Clothing_label

Scooby-Doo
Franchise logo since 1997
Created by	Joe Ruby Ken Spears
Original work	Scooby-Doo, Where Are You! (1969–70)
Owner	Warner Bros. Discovery
Years	1969–present
Print publications
Comics	see List of comics
Films and television
Film(s)	see List of films
Short film(s)	see List of shorts
Television series	see List of television series
Television special(s)	see List of specials
Games
Video game(s)	see List of video games
Audio
Soundtrack(s)	The Ultimate Collection Scooby-Doo
Official website
Official website

Scooby-Doo is an American media franchise based on an animated television series launched in 1969 and continued through several derivative media. Writers Joe Ruby and Ken Spears created the original series, Scooby-Doo, Where Are You!, for Hanna-Barbera Productions. This Saturday-morning cartoon series featured teenagers Fred Jones, Daphne Blake, Velma Dinkley, and Shaggy Rogers, and their talking Great Dane named Scooby-Doo, who solve mysteries involving supposedly supernatural creatures through a series of antics and missteps.^[1]

Scooby-Doo was originally broadcast on CBS from 1969 to 1976, when it moved to ABC. ABC aired various versions of Scooby-Doo until canceling it in 1985, and presented a spin-off featuring the characters as children called A Pup Named Scooby-Doo from 1988 until 1991. Two Scooby-Doo reboots aired as part of Kids' WB on The WB and its successor The CW from 2002 until 2008. Further reboots were produced for Cartoon Network beginning in 2010 and continuing through 2018. Repeats of the various Scooby-Doo series are frequently broadcast on Cartoon Network's sister channel Boomerang in the United States and other countries. The most recent Scooby-Doo series, Scooby-Doo and Guess Who?, premiered on June 27, 2019, as an original series on Boomerang's streaming service and later HBO Max.

In 2013, TV Guide ranked Scooby-Doo the fifth-greatest TV cartoon of all time. On September the 13th of 2024 will mark Scooby-Doo's 55th Anniversary.^[2]

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scooby-Doo

Every episode of the original Scooby-Doo format contains a penultimate scene in which the heroes unmask the seemingly supernatural antagonist to reveal a real person in a costume, as in this scene from "Nowhere to Hyde", an episode of Scooby-Doo, Where Are You! originally aired on CBS on September 12, 1970.

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scooby-Doo

Frederick Jones
Scooby-Doo character
First appearance	"What a Night for a Knight" (Scooby-Doo, Where Are You!; 1969)
Created by	Joe Ruby Ken Spears
Inspired by	Dwayne Hickman's Dobie Gillis by Max Shulman
Voiced by	Frank Welker (1969–present) Carl Steven (young; 1988–1991) Chris Cox (2004)[1] Scott Innes (2014, 2020) Zac Efron (2020) Pierce Gagnon (young; 2020–2022)[2] Glenn Howerton (Velma; 2023-present)[3] (see below)
Portrayed by	Freddie Prinze Jr. (2002–2004) Ryan Vrba (young; 2004) Robbie Amell (2009–2010) (see below)
In-universe information
Nickname	Freddie
Gender	Male
Significant other	Daphne Blake
Relatives	see below

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fred_Jones_(Scooby-Doo)

Fred Jones is a fictional character in the American animated series Scooby-Doo, leader of a quartet of teenage mystery solvers and their Great Dane companion, Scooby-Doo. Fred has been primarily portrayed by voice actor Frank Welker since the character's inception in 1969.  

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fred_Jones_(Scooby-Doo)

This article is about the superhero. For the city in Turkey, see Batman, Turkey. For other uses, see Batman (disambiguation).

For people with the surname Batman, see Batman (surname). For the composer with a similar surname, see Jacques-Louis Battmann.

Batman
Cover of the DC Comics Absolute Edition of Batman: Hush (2011) Art by Jim Lee
Publication information
Publisher	DC Comics
First appearance	Detective Comics #27 (cover-dated May 1939; published March 30, 1939)[1]
Created by	Bob Kane Bill Finger[2][3]
In-story information
Alter ego	Bruce Wayne
Place of origin	Gotham City
Team affiliations	Justice League Batman family Batmen of All Nations Batman Incorporated Wayne Enterprises Outsiders
Partnerships	Robin (various) Batgirl (various) Alfred Pennyworth James Gordon Superman Wonder Woman Catwoman
Notable aliases	Matches Malone Dark Knight World's Greatest Detective Caped Crusader Darknight Detective
Abilities	Genius-level intellect Expert detective Master martial artist and hand-to-hand combatant Master tactician, strategist, and field commander Peak human physical and mental condition Utilizes high-tech equipment and weapons

Batman^[a] is a superhero appearing in American comic books published by DC Comics. The character was created by artist Bob Kane and writer Bill Finger, and debuted in the 27th issue of the comic book Detective Comics on March 30, 1939. In the DC Universe continuity, Batman is the alias of Bruce Wayne, a wealthy American playboy, philanthropist, and industrialist who resides in Gotham City. Batman's origin story features him swearing vengeance against criminals after witnessing the murder of his parents Thomas and Martha as a child, a vendetta tempered with the ideal of justice. He trains himself physically and intellectually, crafts a bat-inspired persona, and monitors the Gotham streets at night. Kane, Finger, and other creators accompanied Batman with supporting characters, including his sidekicks Robin and Batgirl; allies Alfred Pennyworth, James Gordon, and Catwoman; and foes such as the Penguin, the Riddler, Two-Face, and his archenemy, the Joker.

Kane conceived Batman in early 1939 to capitalize on the popularity of DC's Superman; although Kane frequently claimed sole creation credit, Finger substantially developed the concept from a generic superhero into something more bat-like. The character received his own spin-off publication, Batman, in 1940. Batman was originally introduced as a ruthless vigilante who frequently killed or maimed criminals, but evolved into a character with a stringent moral code and strong sense of justice. Unlike most superheroes, Batman does not possess any superpowers, instead relying on his intellect, fighting skills, and wealth. The 1960s Batman television series used a camp aesthetic, which continued to be associated with the character for years after the show ended. Various creators worked to return the character to his darker roots in the 1970s and 1980s, culminating with the 1986 miniseries The Dark Knight Returns by Frank Miller.

DC has featured Batman in many comic books, including comics published under its imprints such as Vertigo and Black Label. The longest-running Batman comic, Detective Comics, is the longest-running comic book in the United States. Batman is frequently depicted alongside other DC superheroes, such as Superman and Wonder Woman, as a member of organizations such as the Justice League and the Outsiders. In addition to Bruce Wayne, other characters have taken on the Batman persona on different occasions, such as Jean-Paul Valley / Azrael in the 1993–1994 "Knightfall" story arc; Dick Grayson, the first Robin, from 2009 to 2011; and Jace Fox, son of Wayne's ally Lucius, as of 2021.^[4] DC has also published comics featuring alternate versions of Batman, including the incarnation seen in The Dark Knight Returns and its successors, the incarnation from the Flashpoint (2011) event, and numerous interpretations from Elseworlds stories.

One of the most iconic characters in popular culture, Batman has been listed among the greatest comic book superheroes and fictional characters ever created. He is one of the most commercially successful superheroes, and his likeness has been licensed and featured in various media and merchandise sold around the world; this includes toy lines such as Lego Batman and video games like the Batman: Arkham series. Batman has been adapted in live-action and animated incarnations, including the 1960s Batman television series played by Adam West and in film by Michael Keaton in Batman (1989), Batman Returns (1992), and The Flash (2023), Val Kilmer in Batman Forever (1995), George Clooney in Batman and Robin (1997), Christian Bale in The Dark Knight trilogy (2005–2012), Ben Affleck in the DC Extended Universe (2016–present), and Robert Pattinson in The Batman (2022). Kevin Conroy, Diedrich Bader, Jensen Ackles, Troy Baker, and Will Arnett, among others, have provided the character's voice. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Batman

A smoking jacket in burgundy with the typical shawl collar, frog fastening and turn-up cuffs. From the 1944 film Gaslight.

A smoking jacket is an informal men's style of lounge jacket originally intended for tobacco smoking. Designed in the 1850s, a traditional smoking jacket has a shawl collar, turn-up cuffs, and is closed with either toggle or button fastenings, or with a tie belt. It is usually made from velvet and/or silk.

Originating in the 1850s, The Gentleman's Magazine of London, England, defined the smoking jacket as a "kind of short robe de chambre [i.e. a banyan], of velvet, cashmere, plush, merino or printed flannel, lined with bright colours, ornamented with brandebourgs [i.e. frogs], olives or large buttons."^[1]

The smoking jacket later evolved into the dinner jacket, essentially a dress coat without tails, following an example set by Edward, Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII) in 1865. The smoking jacket has remained in its original form and is commonly worn when smoking pipes and cigars. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoking_jacket

A Camel cigarette smoking room in an airport at Zurich, Switzerland

A smoking room (or smoking lounge) is a room which is specifically provided and furnished for smoking, generally in buildings where smoking is otherwise prohibited. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoking_room

Locations and facilities

Smoking rooms can be found in public buildings such as airports, and in semi-public buildings such as workplaces.^[1] Such rooms are commonly equipped with chairs, ashtrays and ventilation, and are usually free to enter, although there may be a smoking age restriction. A cigarette company sometimes sponsors these smoking rooms, displaying its brand names on the room walls and financing the room or its maintenance. Cigarette companies have worked hard to ensure smoking was accommodated in major airports, which are high-profile locations serving many people who are often bored or nervous. Initially, providing smoking and no smoking areas was their goal, but when that policy failed they fell back on ventilated smoking rooms.^[2] 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoking_room

Historical use in private British houses

When the Crimean War during the 1850s popularized Turkish tobacco in Great Britain, smoking gained in fashionable popularity there but was considered indelicate.^[3] After dinner in a large private house, the gentlemen might retreat from the ladies to a smoking room, furnished with velvet curtains and decorated to masculine tastes (wealthy owners would often choose Turkish themes and weapons collections), and replace his tail coat with a comfortable velvet smoking jacket and cap. The velvet was intended to absorb the smoke, to avoid contaminating other rooms and clothes.

United Kingdom

In the United Kingdom smoking became illegal on 1 July 2007 in any enclosed public place,^[4] so that smoking rooms cannot be provided and facilities must be outdoors; apart from private homes, almost the only legal exception is for smoking rooms in tobacconists where customers may sample the wares. Mental health units in the NHS providing long term in-patient care also have an exemption allowing the provision of designated smoking rooms for patients.

See also

• Smoking ban
• Passive smoking

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoking_room

Tobacco bowdlerization occurs when a publisher or government agency expurgates a photograph, text, or video document to remove images and references to consuming tobacco products. It often occurs in conjunction with traditional restrictions on tobacco advertising, and is most commonly seen on works that are aimed at children. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tobacco_bowdlerization

Tobacco package warning messages are warning messages that appear on the packaging of cigarettes and other tobacco products concerning their health effects. They have been implemented in an effort to enhance the public's awareness of the harmful effects of smoking. In general, warnings used in different countries try to emphasize the same messages. Warnings for some countries are listed below. Such warnings have been required in tobacco advertising for many years, with the earliest mandatory warning labels implemented in the United States in 1966.^[1] Implementing tobacco warning labels has been strongly opposed by the tobacco industry, most notably in Australia, following the implementation of plain packaging laws.

The WHO Framework Convention on Tobacco Control, adopted in 2003, requires such warning messages to promote awareness against smoking.^[2]

A 2009 review summarises that there is "clear evidence that tobacco package health warnings increase consumers' knowledge about the health consequences of tobacco use". The warning messages "contribute to changing consumers' attitudes towards tobacco use as well as changing consumers' behaviour".^[3]

At the same time, such warning labels have been subject to criticism.^[4][5] 2007 meta-analyses indicated that communications emphasizing the severity of a threat are less effective than communications focusing on susceptibility^[6] and that warning labels may have no effect among smokers who are not confident that they can quit, which lead the authors to recommend exploring different, potentially more effective methods of behaviour change.^[7]

In many countries, a variety of warnings with graphic, disturbing images of tobacco-related harms (including hematuria and diabetes) are placed prominently on cigarette packages. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tobacco_packaging_warning_messages

Minimum legal age to purchase tobacco by country (2022):

  Illegal at any age

  Minimum age is 21

  Minimum age is 20

  Minimum age is 19

  Minimum age is 18

  Minimum age is 17

  Minimum age is 16

  No regulation/no age set

The smoking age is the minimum legal age required to purchase or use tobacco or cannabis products. Most countries have laws that forbid sale of tobacco products to persons younger than certain ages, usually the age of majority.

This article does not discuss laws that regulate electronic cigarettes. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoking_age

Categories:

• Rooms
• Smoking

Tobacco smoking
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Category Cigarettes Electronic cigarettes

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoking_room

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Smoking

Smoking is a practice in which a substance is combusted and the resulting smoke is typically inhaled to be tasted and absorbed into the bloodstream of a person. Most commonly, the substance used is the dried leaves of the tobacco plant, which have been rolled with a small rectangle of paper into an elongated cylinder called a cigarette. Other forms of smoking include the use of a smoking pipe or a bong.  

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoking

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1930

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/bloch